Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

2004 ranger drivers door and wiring harness removal

Marionr26 — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 11:38:26 GMT

Trying to remove drivers door its electric i need to unhook wiring harness under dash so wiring from door stays with door. The truck its going on has the wiring and end of harness to plug the door into once its removed and put on new truck. Can't seem to locate wiring harness thought it was behind kick panel but that only seems to be on passenger side only. Driver side seems to run into a cluster of plugs up under steering wheel. Help help me get these harness unhooked doorcan come off. The harness where the red door is that door is coming off. Then white door going on once that harness is located to unhook. Then when its attached after red door is off thats the other end of harness to plug into showing where red door is

Oil pressure issue

DGreer — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 11:28:43 GMT

My oil pressure gauge fluctuates wildly, peg to peg, at idle and only when fully warmed up. 130,000 miles, 5/30 full synthetic oil changed every 5,000 miles. I did replace the oil pressure switch but it's worse now.
Any thoughts on the most-likely fix?

Oil pressure

DGreer — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 01:32:37 GMT

Obd1 trouble codes

Jmvober1 — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 23:50:11 GMT

Can someone smarter than me figure out what my blink codes equate to in numbers? I get short and long blinks and it�s very confusing. Can�t figure out if it�s supposed to be a 2 digit code or 3. I am an equipment mechanic and am more than technically skilled and mechanically inclined but this is my first time trying to decode obd1 codes and it�s got me confused. My issue is with the transmission but I�m trying to figure out if it�s the trans itself or an input/sensor causing the trans to feel like it�s going in and out of overdrive every couple seconds. Doesn�t seem to do it in regular drive mode. The video is too long to upload so I would have to send it via text I suppose. Thanks

Hi fellow ranger enthusiasts

Nubs — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 18:19:35 GMT

Hi, I'm Nubs. I drive a 1990, 7', 2.3 / 5spd. I live in Texas, and love my dogs and freedom. I'm into video games, and playing guitars too.
I look forward to having conversations about these old trucks, and learning things for all of you. Thanks you for having me.

Kind Regards,

Nubs

PCV Hose and oil separator question

Nubs — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 18:13:47 GMT

Hi Guys, I went out the other day to change the PCV valve on my pickup. It's a 1990 xlt 2.3L 5 SPD Ranger.

I unbolted the alternator so I could get better clearance to the Oil Separator, and located the PCV valve in the hose that comes off of the oil separator. I couldn't get the PCV valve out, and basically cajoled the hose off of the separator, and finally got it out so I could change the PCV.

However, I cannot for the life of me get the hose that comes off of the separator routed like it was originally. I left it hanging towards the dipstick, and ran a new length of 3/8" hose back to the throttle body, and the truck runs amazingly! All my rough idle issues are done for and it runs really well now, except for it's oil separator hose is just kinda hanging out on the dipstick tube.

How in the world do I reroute it so it's back like it was originally? I ordered a intake manifold gasket set, just in case I have to yank the upper intake manifold and throttle body off to rectify this situation. Also, does the oil separator have a grommet that holds it in? Mine's kinda easy to turn, and I'm concerned that there may be oil coming out of it around the base unless it's a press fit. I was tired when I took the hose off of the separator, and have slept since then, and I cannot figure out how it was originally in there to where the PCV is in it's little 'cage' in the hose at the back of the throttle body.

My oil separator doesn't appear bolted in, so any and all advice is welcomed!

As an aside the PCV that was in it had to be original, it was a Motorcraft, and although it shook and rattled, I could see daylight through it and it wouldn't stop airflow either way I blew into it, so I guess it was worn out. Probably the original PCV as from the factory if I had to guess. Truck seems way smoother and lots more power than I'm used to for a little Lima. Thanks for reading and your advice!

Kind Regards,

Nubs

Anti Lock rear brake light

tomguy — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 15:24:56 GMT

I have a 1992 Ranger with a 4 liter engine and manual transmission. It is the STX model with four wheel drive. About three weeks ago the rear brake anti lock light came on in the dash. I looked online and found several 'quick' fixes but nothing seemed to work. I took it to a local mechanic who has worked on my vehicles for a number of years. I have always found him reliable and honest. He check the truck over and couldn't find the problem. As he couldn't get the truck to flash the codes via the proper method he replace the anti lock brake module and tried again. No help. I was wondering if anyone else has ever come across this problem. He says the rear brakes are still working but just don't have the anti lock feature. Any help or suggestions would greatly be appreciated as I like the truck and want everything to work properly. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

1999 3.0V 6 ford ranger - weird running issues

Bugsaway — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 11:49:25 GMT

Good Morning ya'll! I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask for any help or not. I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 and its been acting a tad weird. To explain it idle's high especially after driving for a while it'll sit an idle around 3k rpm and takes a good 10-30 seconds to idle down to 1.7-2.3k rpm. The other part of what it does is when under load (hard accelerating or going up hill) it bogs down really bad. I can't tell if its miss firing or just bogging down but it sounds more like its missing to me. Its a pretty big loss of power. I can usually press the gas pedal down to about 50% before it bogs down and starts acting like its missing. I'm not getting any codes which is the weirdest thing because it runs really bad when its bogging down. I've checked a ton of different times after driving just to see but nothing shows up and no check engine light comes on.

Initially i was thinking fuel related. I have pretty new sparkplugs maybe only 10-15k miles and a new ignition coil put in at that same time. First i pulled a fuel pump from a parts ranger i have and put it in and tossed in a new filter. It didn't make any difference but i knew it was sitting for a while so I bought a new fuel pump installed it and installed a new fuel filter(it came with the pump). It didn't get any better or any worse.
Then thinking it was a vacuum leak or bad gasket so I checked all my vacuum lines and they all checked out good and took apart the entire upper part of the motor and installed new gaskets for the intake manifold, egr, throttle body, and etc. No better or worse. So thinking it might still be fuel related I pulled the fuel pressure regulator off the parts truck (it ran fine and was wrecked so im assuming most parts are good) installed that on my one having issues. Same thing no better or worse.
The only other thing i haven't done but i assume its not related is i know i have a pretty bad exhaust leak not too far from where the headers are. right before the cat. I don't think it would be that? I guess it could be related i just haven't had the time to try welding it just yet to see. I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas and tips or maybe even ran into this before.

Ranger on order

SCMetalcore — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 11:44:45 GMT

Saying hello. Truck on order, expecting in July. XLT, 4x2, 301A, Tech and Advanced Towing, locking rear differential, side step, velocity blue, sandstone interior. Everything I wanted, nothing I don�t.

Living in a condo on the SC coast, I�m here to learn how to best take care of this truck.

Clutch - Diagnosing beyond the bleed (2005)

gaijin_rr — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 21:46:21 GMT

The last few times I have bled my clutch, I have seen no improvement. What is the next thing to check? I have followed the Perfection Clutch Bleed video each time.
Note: A few years ago I did try installing a new master and line, but it didn't really improve things much

Basic symptoms:
Very tough to put into first and reverse. No slipping when driving. No abnormal noises. Driving performance and transmission SEEM good.

What I've done and see:

I do the full removal of the line, suspend and straighten for a bench bleed. Tap it up and down (a lot) and see zero bubbles coming to the surface in the reservoir. In this state, I have maybe 1/8" of push on the push rod. When I do push it, I get that very small amount of fluid pushing back into the reservoir and I see the bulging in the middle. I always think it's a bubble, but no such luck.
Once the line is back in and connected to the slave cylinder, I do a gravity bleed. My method has been press the clutch, open the valve as it purges a small amount of fluid, close the valve, release the clutch. Do that over and over.
Pulling the rubber cover to take a look at the slave, everything is dry and looks good. Pressing the clutch and it sure seems like I'm getting plenty of movement on the slave.
Everything back together and cleaned up, still have to jam it into gear.

Is there a logical next step?
Though I feel I'm following the steps strictly, what step am I maybe messing up that ruins the entire thing?
Is there any physical part of the system that could be bad that maybe I'm not aware of?
Will I ever be happy again?

Haul a golf cart anyone?

Oldman2000xlt — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 16:14:37 GMT

My community is golf cart friendly but the nearest shop to work that I can take it to is outside my area. I don't have a trailer to haul it so I keep looking at my 2000 XLT. It's a low mileage 3.0 standard bed. I have ramps (from a previous truck) and I want to know if anyone here has taken on the crazy task of loading and unloading a golf cart in the bed of their Ranger.
Hints, lesson learned, advice without flames, pictures that may help would be greatly appreciated.
If it matters, the cart is a standard size, Yamaha with stock tires and rims.
I am thinking about putting blocks in front of the rear wheel wells so the cart tires don't drop/wedge in.

New member stRanger XLT

Oldman2000xlt — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 15:57:44 GMT

I'll be asking a few questions.
The truck was previously owned by a mid 90 year old man who stopped driving it several years ago. He had a few minor dings put on it, mostly the rear fender and tailgate. Nothing major.
I got it with 70k miles and replaced front end bushings and bearings, tie rods, shoks, brakes, links so far. Planning to do the rear leaf bushings and shocks someday.
It came with a house that needs major work and a golf cart, boat shop tools etc. I am retired and old enough to be worn down so I will be slow at working on it.
It's a Florida truck that was kept in a plane hangar so it is a good start for my daily driver.

Please help

Tony97 — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 09:48:22 GMT

How to tell if it's my ecu or if it jumped time cuz they have similar symptoms and I can only afford to fix it once. The current symptoms are a rough start sometimes ,crazy amounts of fule consumption (i can literally watch my gas gauge drain)and its starts lugging and has a major loss of power at random

new here this a.m.

lovemytruck — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 09:26:03 GMT

Pacific Northwest lady here. I bought my truck in '94, it's a Mazda B3000 Cab-plus, 183k, V6, 3.0 L, Manual Tran, 2-wheel drive. I am having electrical issues. I'd fixed all my tail-lights about 3 months ago, and noticed turn-signal weren't working in dashboard. So far, I only managed to check under the dash fuse box.

I'm 73 now, and have no one to help me with finding the issue, so I resorted to ChatGPT, and learned some things, but I figured I'd try this forum. Just hope to get some good guidance on what I can, and may be able to do myself. Looking forward to hopefully meeting some other folks that have this old of a truck. I have never wanted to buy another vehicle as I am so used to my truck and it's been amazing for me to drive through the years. I just don't want to lose it, so I've put a lot of money into it only lately. For example, I needed new Shocks so got those at Les Schwab a few days ago, first time they mentioned me needing them.

Anyway, I guess you can tell I am not well educated on vehicles, only driving them. I can do some things I'm finding though. I replaced my IAC Valve, bought the part from Rock Auto, did my lights as I mentioned, so I'm not totally helpless :tongue: Filled out the info on signing up here, and will answer any questions I'm able to, thanks much!
[img alt="This is the latest photo, take 2 months ago. Ive mechanics tell me its well-maintained for how old it is. Ive always taken as much care of it as I can, really babied it all the way :)
"]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ranger-forums.com-vbulletin/675x900/mazda_truck_pic_2_18834528f0a14a41c0133371e7c2217a ee5344e8.jpg[/img]
This is the latest photo, take 2 months ago. I've mechanics tell me it's well-maintained for how old it is. I've always taken as much care of it as I can, really babied it all the way :)

2001 3.0 "D" TR code & 2006 3.0 "D" TR code

jswiftsr — Sun, 31 May 2026 22:28:13 GMT

Hello All,

Does 2001 3.0 "D" TR code & 2006 3.0 "D" TR code share the same transmission? And would it be a 5R44E? Ive read that the 3.0's have 5R44E's and only 4.0's only use 5R55E's.

I bought a 2006 Ranger Sport 3.0 with a bad engine, good Trans, to fix my 2001 Ranger Ext cab 3.0 bad transmission with. Shouldnt they be identical transmissions?