Official Manual T-Case Swap Thread
#1
Official Manual T-Case Swap Thread
i know many people have already done the swap but i would like to make a compilation of everything needed to know before going about doing the conversion.
this seems to be a popular thing amongst us 4x4 guys, whether its in progress, something planned, or a want. i have read it can be done for less than the cost of the 4x4 ecm.
the reason for ME starting this thread is my ecm just took a $%^& on me.
those of you who have done this, please post any info(such as: what to buy, where to buy, parts, part #'s, cross reference of parts on related vehicles, tips/tricks, ect...) and/or pics.
this seems to be a popular thing amongst us 4x4 guys, whether its in progress, something planned, or a want. i have read it can be done for less than the cost of the 4x4 ecm.
the reason for ME starting this thread is my ecm just took a $%^& on me.
those of you who have done this, please post any info(such as: what to buy, where to buy, parts, part #'s, cross reference of parts on related vehicles, tips/tricks, ect...) and/or pics.
Last edited by 02rangermayhem; 08-03-2010 at 08:15 PM.
#2
I'll be doing it soon, going full manual! The 5R55E is going out, and the BCM has gone bad and wont shift the electric transfer case, so I'll be going with a M5OD and manual t/c.
BTW I have a question about the newer 4x4 ECM, is it a standalone system now, or is it still part of the BCM? I've seen a pic of the newer 4X4 module and it has like 3 times more wires than the one on our 98.
BTW I have a question about the newer 4x4 ECM, is it a standalone system now, or is it still part of the BCM? I've seen a pic of the newer 4X4 module and it has like 3 times more wires than the one on our 98.
#5
You're going to want to make sure you have the threaded bungs on the transmission tail housing to bolt the linkage too. That is one of the main reasons why people don't do this swap...that part is expensive. I had made a couple of adapters that allow you to bolt the linkage on if you don't have the threaded bongs. They are floating around on here.
Most people get the 1354m t-case out of explorers and newer bronco IIs. They are stronger rand have a different front output that people prefer.
Most people get the 1354m t-case out of explorers and newer bronco IIs. They are stronger rand have a different front output that people prefer.
#6
You're going to want to make sure you have the threaded bungs on the transmission tail housing to bolt the linkage too. That is one of the main reasons why people don't do this swap...that part is expensive. I had made a couple of adapters that allow you to bolt the linkage on if you don't have the threaded bongs. They are floating around on here.
Most people get the 1354m t-case out of explorers and newer bronco IIs. They are stronger rand have a different front output that people prefer.
Most people get the 1354m t-case out of explorers and newer bronco IIs. They are stronger rand have a different front output that people prefer.
Parts you'll need:
Transfer case
front driveshaft
shift linkage
floor plate for manual transfer case, or you can cut your stock one
Interior shift boot and floor bezel
The hardest part about doing these 01+ trucks is keeping the interior from looking hacked.
The interior parts are hard to find and a part to cover the RCM and the stock hole in the carpet simply doesn't exist
You'll have to replace the flooring to cover the hole or make something. Then you have the RCM to worry about covering as well.
#7
#8
Manual trans tailhousings from 01+ dont have the threaded bungs for the transfer case shift linkage. 01+ manuals also have the speed sensor in the tailhousing. You can't use the older pre 01 tailhousings that DO have the threaded bungs because they don't have the speed sensor. The ONLY tailhousings that have the threaded bungs and the speed sensor hole came from 02 FX4 manual trannys and 03 FX4 level II manual trannys. They are super rare and pretty damn spendy when you find one.
#9
Manual trans tailhousings from 01+ dont have the threaded bungs for the transfer case shift linkage. 01+ manuals also have the speed sensor in the tailhousing. You can't use the older pre 01 tailhousings that DO have the threaded bungs because they don't have the speed sensor. The ONLY tailhousings that have the threaded bungs and the speed sensor hole came from 02 FX4 manual trannys and 03 FX4 level II manual trannys. They are super rare and pretty damn spendy when you find one.
So it'll be easier for the pre-01 crowd since our speed sensors are in the axle, and either style of trans will work.
#11
well in the last 24hrs i seem to have come across all the parts i would need to do this swap. thanks to wellcom2knoxvile, he has sourced everything i need. this thread will soon branch off to my future build.
as for my truck, i have the threaded bungs, i have the speed sensor in the diff, and i will be installing the bw1350. cant wait!!!!
as for my truck, i have the threaded bungs, i have the speed sensor in the diff, and i will be installing the bw1350. cant wait!!!!
#13
There is a lot of info and pics here. Although this stuff is all Level II stuff the idea, and parts are similar just more expensive.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f37/ma...e-swap-103317/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f37/ma...e-swap-103317/
#14
#15
well in the last 24hrs i seem to have come across all the parts i would need to do this swap. thanks to wellcom2knoxvile, he has sourced everything i need. this thread will soon branch off to my future build.
as for my truck, i have the threaded bungs, i have the speed sensor in the diff, and i will be installing the bw1350. cant wait!!!!
as for my truck, i have the threaded bungs, i have the speed sensor in the diff, and i will be installing the bw1350. cant wait!!!!
jus did some research on the tcase and its a 1350. i knew the 1354 was almost a direct bolt in but i am lead to believe there is an issue with the front drive shaft.
im not worried about the 1354 being stronger cause i dont bet my truck but what can i do about the drive shaft?
im not worried about the 1354 being stronger cause i dont bet my truck but what can i do about the drive shaft?
#20
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ya i think were makin a mountain out of a mole hill!! all you need for the 1350 swap is the conversion u-joint.. super simple and easy, especially cause if the truck is stock height he doesnt need the double cardon joint shaft
#21
#22
i have a a bl and tbar crank with chevy shackles. nothing really with the suspension. not worth it in my opinion to do a superlift or rcd cause i wont justify the money spent offroad. i use my truck for work and pulling trailers.
#24
I have made an adapter to fix this problem...check out the link...
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f54/ma...dapter-117235/