and for reference, the sticks I'm using:

 

try getting the arc started.... then ever so slowly drag the rod in a complete straight line.

use your left hand as a support for your right hand to keep it straight. the more consistent motion you have, the better the weld

 

I'd recommend starting with an E6013 1/8" rod and burn it between 90 & 125 amps DC. I think you'll find this rod easier to work with.

 

Friend is in a welding class just got done with arc welding, and his uncle who is a certified welder for 20+ years says different. No slag in the welds either.

 

rnt you supposed to hit the weld with a hammer after you stick it..


ive only stick welded once...i only MIG and TIG

 

Yea, hitting the weld with a chipping hammer is to get the slag off (in the last picture of the last set, you can see that it's somewhat brown) Thats the stuff. Its what covers the weld after to protect it while cools. After you hit most of that off, your supposed to go over the weld with a wire brush, to get the remnants gone.

 

slag is not there to protect the weld while its cool.

it is to sheild the metal during the weld

 

I am a welder, 6011, 6013, and 7018 are the easiest rods to weld with. try some different methods like half moons, triangles, and circular motions till you get a nice bead. It depends on what rod you are using. Practice makes perfect as in all things, get some nice this plates and just practicing runnign one bead after another, overlapping each one, till the plate looks like a row of corn. If you cant weld a nice straight bead on a flat piece of steal forget about making a joint that has good penetration. well good luck and feel free to pm me if you have any questions. Just dont get frustrated

 

heat looks a little low. looks like a 70 series rod to me...definetly looks like smaw...

i dunno...practice makes perfect

my instructor always made me draw out the weld on a piece of paper (circular motion) until it was perfect. then we would weld...then if it was ok we could weld some more...but if it was bad...it was back to the drawing board.

its an awesome teqnique...he is one of the top welders in the state...we even do it for overhead

just practice...like someone else said too...welding 2 pieces together is where it's at for learning. you can whatch the metal pool up and see the penetration...much better. although a little harder

 

100% correct...it sheilds out the o2...

o2 is a welders worst enemy

slag is there to keep it out

thats why you can only use mig indoors or in low wind situations..it does not use a "slag" but rather gas...if the gas blows away from the pool...your weld will do the same...blow

 

I did a few stick weld modules back in shop. Is there an easy way to get your stick not stuck to the metal when you're starting?

 

I think burning flux on the rod displaces the air preventing oxygen from entering the weld making it porous , brittle and weak . 7018 rod is high tensile, 6011 is medium general purpose rod and 6013 is relatively soft . The softer the rod , the less energy you need to burn it and the easier it is to maintain an arc .If the pieces you are welding fit well together , a relatively thin 3/32" rod will do the trick . If I were to try to fill in a large hole , a fat 5/32 " 6013 rod would be my choice ( if the pieces were thick enough ) . Thin rods start easier at any given energy level and are less likely to blow out . If you run into a red rod ( got stuck and heated up from being a dead short ) Or if just the tip is glowing , let it cool off before trying to strike it again , it will work much better I assure you . You might practice vertical welding , It looks difficult but it isn't as hard as it seems . Start at the bottom and ( stack the weld ) going up , slow , with a lot more overlap than on horizontal . Practice ; welding is fun ! Doing it for a living , or with a time constraint , sucks .