Boxing in the frame questions
Im going to start boxing in my frame and i need to start buying material but what is ideal thickness? i think 3/16th ive never looked into this at all 1/8th just seems pointless but 1/4" seems kinda overkill but most of the time overkill is good
best way to go about this? take everything off the frame rails weld it all on and rerun everything -- adding new fuel lines in SS braided for the fuel cell im adding parking brake will need to be redone 100% since the lift will be added then its just the harness running to the back ive ordered the wire clamp things.. i didnt know if anybody had a good write up on doing this.. thanks in advance! |
well one good thing about boxing the frame is that now you can run the line inside the frame and it will look cleaner.
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why do you need to box the frame? overkill can be good but pointless overkill is retarded, IMO. i would use 3/16s myself...
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Originally Posted by SuperGildo@RRP
(Post 990842)
why do you need to box the frame? overkill can be good but pointless overkill is retarded, IMO. i would use 3/16s myself...
1st reason strength -- 2nd to clean everything up i was googling it last night saw many hotrods that boxed it in and they used 3/16th thanks gil! |
Aren't the stock rails 3/16" That's what i'd do. Hmm.....i'm still trying to figure the plan out. Boxing the frame, SAS.....hmm.....
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I have a feeling were gonna be see a South Carolina Ranger of 40"+ tires soon
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haha you guys will just have to wait and see
i ordered the metal today through work should be here next week and i can start on that but i gotta alot of things to take off and stuff before i can start boxing it up |
You sure you have to leave? Just get it done so we can see it, lol.
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Run the same thickness as the stock rails, you wont gain much strength by going thicker on just one side.
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if you want to clean up the frame ditch all the stock crossmembers and that will make a world of difference.
I dont think it will be worth the money to box it. That is a ton of wiring and redoing hoses and such. Why are you keeping the ebrake? I would ditch it that is a good way to clean it up |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 991066)
if you want to clean up the frame ditch all the stock crossmembers and that will make a world of difference.
I dont think it will be worth the money to box it. That is a ton of wiring and redoing hoses and such. Why are you keeping the ebrake? I would ditch it that is a good way to clean it up zach you know what im running do you think the frame will be able to take that load? im going to ditch the ebrake i havent had one since the RCD lift |
Originally Posted by HighRollerII
(Post 991136)
i was debating bout the members im pulling the cab hopefully next weekend and i can go ahead and figure it out more
zach you know what im running do you think the frame will be able to take that load? im going to ditch the ebrake i havent had one since the RCD lift I do want to see you pull the cab, I wish I had more available down time so that I could do the same. it would make things a whole lot easier... |
dude those 46's are going to implode your truck like a pop can...
you better box it in and backfill with cement! |
Let me fill some gaps here......
The frame is 1/8" and when you remove the xmembers you can twist the rail 1" with 1 hand so box it, its a noodle.
Box it with a simular material, either 1/8 or 10 gauge, most of you will find 10 gauge easier & cheaper even though its .05" thicker than 1/8". Do NOT plate it, that would be a waste of time....... Replace the xmembers with tube but do not forget gussets to add triangulation. We are developing a kit to box the midyears frame, it has been slow going as we had to wait for SCORE for 2 months to decide whether or not they were going to adopt BITD rules. They have and now we can finish with the notch..... |
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