How to make front hitch
#1
How do i make a front hitch
Im looking at putting a front hitch on my truck when i get my sl done. can someone show me how to do this and what parts i will need or if there is a link to someone who has a how to on how to do it it would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by 03ranger; 02-14-2010 at 07:51 PM.
#5
#6
Get yourself a cheap used rear hitch of any kind of junk. Can be off anything pretty much, what it came off of is no concern, just make sure it's bigger than 30" wide and the main tube is straight, not bent like alot of stock rear ranger hitches are.
If not bodylifted: I prefer one with the insert hole in-line with the rest of the hitch. If bodylifted: I prefer one with the insert offset(lowered) from the rest of the hitch.....that is, if it's not offset more than 3". Those offset ones are a little iffy on front hitch applications.
Get some 3/16-3/8 pieces of angle iron cut to about 6" lengths or so. Clamp those to the frame. Then cut your hitch to fill the gap between the angle irons. Tack into place or clamp into place then install bumper to verify hole clearences. Get it right, final tack it, test fit again, then fully weld it. Either weld to frame or have fun using bolts.
Bodylifted is a little iffy on what needs to be done. It depends on what hitch you're starting out with. Either way, for a bodylift on a torsion bar truck, that front crossmember needs to be cut a little more than half way up it. You can weld it to the hitch if you're good with a cut off wheel too....would strengthen up that dinky crossmember. My front hitch is just too high(my own fault) and had to trim the valence to make it usable and keep a good grille/bumper gap.
Or install as below for a non-BL truck, then cut your valence.
On my BL'd truck. Used a now out of production Hidden front hitch for 98+ Rangers...but mounted ONTOP of the frame to compensate for the BL. If I could do it all over again, I would using a junkyard hitch and making it perfect before I fully welded the thing on. Like I noted above, I had to trim my valence to actually use the hitch. The hitch reciever sits about 3/4" to 1" too high.
If not bodylifted: I prefer one with the insert hole in-line with the rest of the hitch. If bodylifted: I prefer one with the insert offset(lowered) from the rest of the hitch.....that is, if it's not offset more than 3". Those offset ones are a little iffy on front hitch applications.
Get some 3/16-3/8 pieces of angle iron cut to about 6" lengths or so. Clamp those to the frame. Then cut your hitch to fill the gap between the angle irons. Tack into place or clamp into place then install bumper to verify hole clearences. Get it right, final tack it, test fit again, then fully weld it. Either weld to frame or have fun using bolts.
Bodylifted is a little iffy on what needs to be done. It depends on what hitch you're starting out with. Either way, for a bodylift on a torsion bar truck, that front crossmember needs to be cut a little more than half way up it. You can weld it to the hitch if you're good with a cut off wheel too....would strengthen up that dinky crossmember. My front hitch is just too high(my own fault) and had to trim the valence to make it usable and keep a good grille/bumper gap.
Or install as below for a non-BL truck, then cut your valence.
On my BL'd truck. Used a now out of production Hidden front hitch for 98+ Rangers...but mounted ONTOP of the frame to compensate for the BL. If I could do it all over again, I would using a junkyard hitch and making it perfect before I fully welded the thing on. Like I noted above, I had to trim my valence to actually use the hitch. The hitch reciever sits about 3/4" to 1" too high.
#7
buy a hitch that has a straight bar. (i picked up a silverado hitch for 20 bucks on craigslist) cut it to the size you need then notch the front cross member and weld the sucker on. i haven't even put mine on yet but it will be on in march
Last edited by 99offroadrngr; 02-16-2010 at 04:11 PM.
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#10
He meant that if you were BL, you could install a normal hitch and cut your valance so you can use the hitch in a stock location (like some people do with the tow hooks).
#12
#13
The hitch comes flat to the front of the bumper, or slightly inward. Again, if you're making it yourself, you make it how you want it, how best it works for you.
it really is that simple.
#14
Yeah, if you're making your front hitch from another (like detailed int he above picture), you can make it come out anyway you want.
The hitch comes flat to the front of the bumper, or slightly inward. Again, if you're making it yourself, you make it how you want it, how best it works for you.
it really is that simple.
The hitch comes flat to the front of the bumper, or slightly inward. Again, if you're making it yourself, you make it how you want it, how best it works for you.
it really is that simple.
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#18
My shackle doesn't hit the valence. Only if I force it to it will...like pushing it towards the valence. The shackle insert I use is from etrailer.com and cost $30. Solid milled steel with a 7/8" shackle. I find it perfect for my application because it doesn't stick out too far, yet it's not so sucked in that it hits the valence at 'idle'.
Here's a profile of mine. I'll get one with valence and shackle installed here later today and post it up for ya.
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