I am sure MOST are scratching their he'd saying WFT is a mazda BT 50.

It is basically the overseas ranger.

I just picked up an ARB bumper for one tonight. It was a display model and never mounted. Only Paid $400.

My question is. How different is the BT50 from my 04 ranger?

 

Looking at this photo here, they are quiet a bit different.

 

I know the sheet metal is different, I am wondering the the frame may possibly be the same width

 

Sorry, but i mentioned in the op that the bt50 has the same engine as the ranger (2007 and such), there are 2.5l, 3.0l and 3.5l variations, hence the reason why im at a ranger forum lol.

Anyway, after more research, it looks like electrolysis or a stray current, how a radiator shop didnt say this when i asked "is there ANYTHINGGGG else at all that could possibly be causing the system to pressurise" my diesel mechanic and radiator mechanic both said no separately. Of course electrolysis can 100% pressurise the system causing premature failure at the radiator or heater core due to oxidation of the aluminium causing pin holes to form ontop of the pressure from bubbles being formed inside from the chemical reaction forming, its possible to blow a brand new radiator within 3 weeks if electrolysis or stray current is the issue! And yes that happened to me twice! (before the new head install) within 3-5 weeks 2 radiators had popped.

So im going through adding new ground points all over the engine bay, put a new radiator cap and also going to check for parasitic draw.

with the multimeter in the coolant of the top tank i get a reading of approx 0.4-0.45V, and from what i understand its enough to cause issues, also those 2 radiators that popped (after the oem one also popped) you can see all white fluff (corrosion of aluminium) around the fins and tubes indicating that there is a breakdown of the aluminium as read online from the radiator wholesaler papers (worked at one for 5 years and they release alot of great information that can be helpful).

Hopefully i can get the voltage down to under 0.1v and flush the system with new coolant and distilled water, going to need a new radiator AGAIN! (FARRRKKKK) Not going to replace this one until that voltage is down to ensure it doesnt eat itself from the inside out!

Any additional advice or information would be much appreciated. Dont mind the mazda bt-50 thing at this stage an engine is an engine and its all the same for electrolysis lol even tho it has a ford ranger engine.

 

Holy DEADT THREAD revival and nothing to do with the original question