sliders.. FINALLY!
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 431
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From: San Diego, CA
Update time!
I finally was able to get the sliders mounted. Took pics as I was doing it:
Passenger side..
^^ I used a piece of 1x3 pine as a spacer so I could position them as equally close to the frame as possible.
Drivers side..
^^ Side clearance
^^ Welded and ready for paint (will be done tomorrow).
I finally was able to get the sliders mounted. Took pics as I was doing it:
Passenger side..
^^ I used a piece of 1x3 pine as a spacer so I could position them as equally close to the frame as possible.
Drivers side..
^^ Side clearance
^^ Welded and ready for paint (will be done tomorrow).
Last edited by 2002FX4; Apr 21, 2008 at 11:36 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 431
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From: San Diego, CA
Upppdaaatte time! So I got the sliders painted and mounted. I also removed the front bumper to mount the shackle blocks and repaint it to match the sliders. Let me know what ya'll think of the color 'scheme'! 
The blue is called 'safety blue' and, in case you can't tell good enough in the pics, its a rich sky blue. Also, my rear bumper is in the works..
The blue is called 'safety blue' and, in case you can't tell good enough in the pics, its a rich sky blue. Also, my rear bumper is in the works..
Last edited by 2002FX4; May 4, 2008 at 04:16 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,583
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From: Stevenson, WA
^^ Agreed!
If it was JUST the bumper, or JSUt the sliders painted that color.. I woudl have been like "meh", but with it all like that, plus your bolt ons for the rims the same color.. it pulls it off pretty damn well, specially with the decal on the back end.
Looks great!
If it was JUST the bumper, or JSUt the sliders painted that color.. I woudl have been like "meh", but with it all like that, plus your bolt ons for the rims the same color.. it pulls it off pretty damn well, specially with the decal on the back end.
Looks great!
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: San Diego, CA
They are being re-done and the designed slightly tweaked/altered after my initial run w/them showed a couple flaws (bent one pretty 'good').
Namely I'm gonna use DOM for both pieces. This will allow me to have the smaller diameter tube (1-1/2") to fit snug inside the larger tube (1-3/4"). The 1-3/4" tube I have as it is now is seamed (HREW) tube, so I used 1-1/4" tube, but it proved to have just abit too much play (it also slightly splayed the edge of the larger (1-3/4") tube do to the play). Also, I believe I'm gonna use .250 wall for the 1-1/2" (still using .120 for the 1-3/4" tube).
Other than that, the design performed flawlessly. I believe there is very little if any binding because the pivot point for 'em (frame mounted end) is very near the forward leaf spring mount (as both travel in an arc upon suspension cycling). Plus there is the telescoping feature which should alleviate any possible binding.
Namely I'm gonna use DOM for both pieces. This will allow me to have the smaller diameter tube (1-1/2") to fit snug inside the larger tube (1-3/4"). The 1-3/4" tube I have as it is now is seamed (HREW) tube, so I used 1-1/4" tube, but it proved to have just abit too much play (it also slightly splayed the edge of the larger (1-3/4") tube do to the play). Also, I believe I'm gonna use .250 wall for the 1-1/2" (still using .120 for the 1-3/4" tube).
Other than that, the design performed flawlessly. I believe there is very little if any binding because the pivot point for 'em (frame mounted end) is very near the forward leaf spring mount (as both travel in an arc upon suspension cycling). Plus there is the telescoping feature which should alleviate any possible binding.
They are being re-done and the designed slightly tweaked/altered after my initial run w/them showed a couple flaws (bent one pretty 'good').
Namely I'm gonna use DOM for both pieces. This will allow me to have the smaller diameter tube (1-1/2") to fit snug inside the larger tube (1-3/4"). The 1-3/4" tube I have as it is now is seamed (HREW) tube, so I used 1-1/4" tube, but it proved to have just abit too much play (it also slightly splayed the edge of the larger (1-3/4") tube do to the play). Also, I believe I'm gonna use .250 wall for the 1-1/2" (still using .120 for the 1-3/4" tube).
Other than that, the design performed flawlessly. I believe there is very little if any binding because the pivot point for 'em (frame mounted end) is very near the forward leaf spring mount (as both travel in an arc upon suspension cycling). Plus there is the telescoping feature which should alleviate any possible binding.
Namely I'm gonna use DOM for both pieces. This will allow me to have the smaller diameter tube (1-1/2") to fit snug inside the larger tube (1-3/4"). The 1-3/4" tube I have as it is now is seamed (HREW) tube, so I used 1-1/4" tube, but it proved to have just abit too much play (it also slightly splayed the edge of the larger (1-3/4") tube do to the play). Also, I believe I'm gonna use .250 wall for the 1-1/2" (still using .120 for the 1-3/4" tube).
Other than that, the design performed flawlessly. I believe there is very little if any binding because the pivot point for 'em (frame mounted end) is very near the forward leaf spring mount (as both travel in an arc upon suspension cycling). Plus there is the telescoping feature which should alleviate any possible binding.
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From: Firey depths
You should mount them up into the frame with a shackle then you dont have to have that giant slip joint and you can built them nice a solid. Just run it right next to the pumpkin and you only need one instead one two.
