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Fabrication & Tool Tech Need assistance with or ideas for custom metal fabrication? Want to show off your fabrication abilities or custom modifications? This is the sub-forum for you.

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  #76  
Old 06-11-2012
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Nice.
$850 was a quote I got but the guy backed out after I went to tell him to go for it.

i found a local to me guy that will bend some steel, here we go again !
I'd build you one for that.... I'll pitch Steel some money too for the initial design.

But yes, there is A LOT of work that goes into these. Steel, we have what, 4 hours in them so far? And they are far from done?
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  #77  
Old 06-12-2012
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I'd build you one for that.... I'll pitch Steel some money too for the initial design.

But yes, there is A LOT of work that goes into these. Steel, we have what, 4 hours in them so far? And they are far from done?
not counting the design time...
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  #78  
Old 06-12-2012
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Oh yea, you have how many hours in that, 6-7 at least... We've been working on these since last summer
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  #79  
Old 06-14-2012
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The new guy wants $150 for the steel, face, top and mounting, with cut outs for license plate and bak-me-up lights.
Also, he wants $85/hr for setup and any CAD work he needs to do and bending process.

Still looking at around $850 - $900 ready to mount.

Why doesn’t someone make a rear bumper for a steppie ranger ? AAAAAHHHGGGGG !
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  #80  
Old 06-14-2012
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Because non-steppies are better?

Metal price is about right. Overall cost of 800-900 seems a little much though. I could see 600, but 900 would be tough to justify
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  #81  
Old 06-14-2012
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Worked a little more on the bumper

Tacked


Fully tacked on the outside


Ground down, ready for body work
Attached Thumbnails
Steel bumpers-aefd1378-a261-d912.jpg   Steel bumpers-aefd1378-a276-d9c6.jpg   Steel bumpers-aefd1378-a297-bf8f.jpg  
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  #82  
Old 06-14-2012
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in that picture you said its fully tacked and it looks like you actually tack welded the whole thing. is that the case or does it just look like it? if so why would you tack weld the whole thing and not just put a solid bead down?
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  #83  
Old 06-15-2012
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We had a slight warping issue on the top side doing a full weld on the plate holder.
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  #84  
Old 06-15-2012
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Yeah thats the problem i had with mine doing the full welds. I even only did 6 inchs and moved to a different spot trying to keep the heat down. but all of those tack welds seem like they would take forever!
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  #85  
Old 06-15-2012
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yeah since we're painting them we'll try and fill them in to help out. Then once I get line-x on the top side that'll further hide the curve. It's just the top that's bowed slightly the back face is fine.
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  #86  
Old 06-15-2012
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grev I can get any cad work ready for you. I already have mine drawn, so shortening should be a piece of cake if you want one just like mine. Or if you want to change the light holes or plate bracket that shouldn't be too hard either.
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  #87  
Old 06-15-2012
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So what I am hearing it is a b!tch to weld a separate top on the bumper.

Crooooow,
You had your top bend in so there is no welding, what are ou going to do with the top ?


I am looking for another fabricator to get a price, the $800-900 is a little too high for my blood.
I know it cost money to make these things but as state before $600 to $650 would have been really nice.

Crooooow, Zach, Josh,
Back to the welding thing, how do stop the wrapping when welding the top on ?
Is there some way to clamp it, not along the edge but on the flat to help keep its shape; maybe a couple of pieces of flat stock ?
I am a newb/hobbyist welder at best so just thinking and learning.

With the costs being where they are around here I may only get the pieces cut/bent and do the welding myself, another project on the list.

When does the list stop !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh40601 View Post
Because non-steppies are better?

Metal price is about right. Overall cost of 800-900 seems a little much though. I could see 600, but 900 would be tough to justify
Didn’t see the steppie comment in there.
Me, being OLD as dirt, have had a few stepside pickups, in fact I think they were all stepsides at one time (before my time that is).
I have always loved the '52 Ford Stepside (that’s 1952 not the upcoming number) and plan on buying one sooner than later but I love the stepsides and have not had a chance to get a Ranger that way until now.
it cost me more than I wanted to pay for the bed because it was a brand new bed from an overstock sale in a Cali Ford Dealership, ($750) but since it was brand new I bit the bullet and got it.
So as far as a Steppie being better I won’t go there, there is only one way to have a pickup, and that is Stepside.

No rimes or is that rhyme, but just reason, I like them.

Last edited by Scrambler82; 06-15-2012 at 06:38 AM.
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  #88  
Old 06-15-2012
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I'm sure you could make some sort of fixture, if you have a metal table maybe clamp it down and hope it doesnt warp the table too. That, or go real slow, do different sections, and take breaks. Not sure if this is a bad idea, but maybe water cool it between welds?

I don't know a lot about welding, just a thought.

I guess the plan is to use some body filler? Plus cover it with line x on the top. Which I think will hide it pretty well.
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  #89  
Old 06-15-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelDirigible View Post
grev I can get any cad work ready for you. I already have mine drawn, so shortening should be a piece of cake if you want one just like mine. Or if you want to change the light holes or plate bracket that shouldn't be too hard either.
Let me see what I can get together for measurements.
My plan is to have some two inch wrap-around pieces towards the steppie fenders, I am working on that part of the design now.

How high are these bumpers you guys are building, I was thinking 6” ?

Also, 3/16 steel, the local guy can bend ˝ but thats way, way too thick ?

Ok on the bondo, it will fill but I was just thinking weld the edge, let it be.

Fixturing will be something to think on too and my table top is ˝” Plate 3’ x 5’, not sure that will bend.

Thks for the ideas.
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  #90  
Old 06-15-2012
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here's a link with all the prints in PDF format. It is 6.5" tall.

http://sweb.uky.edu/~mwke224/bumpers/
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  #91  
Old 06-15-2012
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Originally Posted by SteelDirigible View Post
here's a link with all the prints in PDF format. It is 6.5" tall.

http://sweb.uky.edu/~mwke224/bumpers/
Sorry but the link doesn’t work for me, all I get is an error message.

Funny working now… thks
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  #92  
Old 06-15-2012
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Sorry but the link doesn’t work for me, all I get is an error message.
Fixed. sorry. Check it again.

http://sweb.uky.edu/~mwke224/bumpers/
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  #93  
Old 06-15-2012
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Got all to my computer, now I can mark them up some, thks.
The Plate Holder is a God Sent, I was wondering about angles on that and how deep to make it.
When I get a few measurements together I will contact you.
Thanks a lot.
ltr

What are you planning on the License Plate lighting, I was thinking OEM Ford Lights with LEDs but punching a hole for that would be interesting.

My backup lights are going to be KC Backup Lights, 2x6 I think.
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  #94  
Old 06-15-2012
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not sure on the plate lights, I'll figure something out. Maybe the LED bolts. If you wanted factory light holes those would be easy to add on thedrawings. be easier than trying to drill it out or something.
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  #95  
Old 06-15-2012
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Originally Posted by SteelDirigible View Post
not sure on the plate lights, I'll figure something out. Maybe the LED bolts. If you wanted factory light holes those would be easy to add on the drawings. be easier than trying to drill it out or something.
The LED Bolts were the first thing I thought of but if someone slips off the top you will snap them.

Still thinking OEM will have to see, they are cheap from a Ford Parts Shop and in black would look goos and and bring the OEM look to the bumper.

Need to chk the shape and size.
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  #96  
Old 06-15-2012
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that was my plan then I just kind of forgot about it. I know the OEM lights snap into place, but we could just drill a hole for wire, and use some kind of adhesive to mount the housing there. I may look into that.
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  #97  
Old 06-15-2012
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That’s an idea too, I think there is a tab on them but not sure will need to look.
maybe eliminate the tab and then adhesive them in a hole, from the back, allowing an OEM socket with LEDs.

Thks for all of the info and ideas, I need to get things together and check out the lights both Backup and Plate.

ltr
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  #98  
Old 06-15-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post

Crooooow, Zach, Josh,
Back to the welding thing, how do stop the wrapping when welding the top on ?
Is there some way to clamp it, not along the edge but on the flat to help keep its shape; maybe a couple of pieces of flat stock ?
I am a newb/hobbyist welder at best so just thinking and learning.
Im a newb at welding too, building my bumper was a good learning experience. most of my warp came when i welded the bottom of mine together. I didnt clamp the pieces down and didnt think about it warping up. Then i just clamped the top part down onto it as good as i could. If you look at my build thread you might be able to tell what im talking about.
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  #99  
Old 06-15-2012
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All the tacks makes finishing smoother. Continuous beads are on the back side, and the tacks out front. Tacks take about 100,000 times less time to grind down and smooth out.

As for water, NO. It will weaken the metal exponentially making it more brittle.

As for the recessed plate holder, it wasn't. We cut it, then welded in each corner, and ground it smooth.

Steppies are fine, just ball bustin. They usually cost more, so I have never had one. We have a 69 c10 step side awaiting its turn in the restoration line of assembly.

Lights will be LED for mine. Either the bolts or the bar that goes accross the plate and shines down.
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  #100  
Old 06-15-2012
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well it was supposed to get bent, for some reason that didn't happen. lucky josh is as accurate with harbor freight tools as the $50,000 laser at work.
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