Toolbox Tray Replacement - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Fabrication & Tool Tech Need assistance with or ideas for custom metal fabrication? Want to show off your fabrication abilities or custom modifications? This is the sub-forum for you.

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  #26  
Old 02-25-2010
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Yeah same thing happened to me with a quart of oil, could never get all that mess up. I think if you used the actual box as a base and just welded some squares to make a box that way it would work. Unless you want to take the entire box out then it wouldn't. Good idea nonetheless
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  #27  
Old 02-25-2010
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Well I want the box I'm making removable, and don't want it to be apart of the original toolbox. In case I take everything out and wanna upgrade to a single tank or what not. You guys will see what I mean come next week. I've got ideas up my sleeve lol
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  #28  
Old 02-25-2010
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i like what you did with the hookah hahaha my base has yet to break. though we've come awfully close! i will use your idea if i ever do break it though! haha
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  #29  
Old 02-25-2010
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Actually I have some 10# R134 tanks at home, I use some for nuts/bolts but I have 2 i haven't cut up yet, I'll cut that top off those and and just drop one in the box. no welding needed.
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  #30  
Old 02-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
I can't make one for the other side, because if I did, I wouldn't be able to shut the lid, the sockets are on that side of the toolbox. I didn't want one that took up the whole tray area, just one big enough so my tools aren't piling up on that dinky plastic tray. Right now, it's perfect and they sit just about level with the top of the tray. Plus, TIG-ing that much aluminum on the same part, gets rather frustrating, making sure to rotate sides and back step all welds to make sure you don't distort the metal and make it look like ****. lol



That was close Grant, from memory, that was dang close!

The specs are actually two 3 gallon 200psi air tanks connected at the ends with a "T" fitting and a quick disconnect to run my 25ft 1/2" air line with tire inflator on it, two ViAir 380c (16a/comp) 100% duty cycle (100% at 100psi and 55% at 200psi) compressors running 1/2" hard line tubing and compression fittings, 1/4" hard line tubing to the 200psi 7-color LED pressure gauge, and a 200psi adjustable pressure switch that's set at 195psi off and 150psi on. I'm using a 40a relay on a 40a mega fuse and holder using 10-12g wiring. This is all mainly to power my Nathan P3 Locomotive horn :)

Is that specific enough? lol
do you actually need 195 psi?

what did the setup cost?
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  #31  
Old 02-25-2010
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I don't need 195psi... No... But the Nathan diaphram can handle it. And it is one of the loudest, if not the loudest, horn rolling around Gresham/Corvallis where I'm from. It's awesome.

I think throughout my different setups, I have over $1,100 into my setup. If I could do it all over, I would have listened to the people trying to steer me in the right direction. I could have saved big money up front.
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  #32  
Old 02-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4 View Post
Actually I have some 10# R134 tanks at home, I use some for nuts/bolts but I have 2 i haven't cut up yet, I'll cut that top off those and and just drop one in the box. no welding needed.
you need to roll the lip on them though


tray looks good, way better than before
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