Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

1994 B4000 Eaton M62 build...by accident :)

  #1  
Old 06-27-2011
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1994 B4000 Eaton M62 build...by accident :)

SO, after making my intro thread and doing a bit of research, I've decided to go forced induction. I hadn't quite had my mind set on turbo or supercharger until today haha. Out of pure curiosity, I bid on a Nissan Frontier/Xterra M62 supercharger on eBay...and won LOL. Totally be accident indeed since I thought for sure the other bidder would make a last second bid. I was wrong, but oh so right :)

Therefor I'm starting this build thread...

I recently purchased this 1994 Mazda B4000 BACK from a neighbor. It was originally my grandfathers from the day it came off the lot! But a couple years ago, sold it to this teenage, punk *** kid who dogged the **** out of it. He finally bought a new truck and I had first dibs since it has sentimental value to me. On to the bad news...

It ran like **** :/ Decided to tear it down since I was going FI anyways and found that the passengers side head as a crack in the middle cylinder between the valves. I was told by my machinist that it is quite common with these engines. Hopefully I will not need to buy a new head(s), but only time will tell. With that being said, here are some pictures I have thus far and I will keep updating as much as possible.




Thanks,

Andrew
 
  #2  
Old 06-28-2011
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Some recent activity from my intro thread...

Originally Posted by Masteratarms93 View Post
Well the 4.0 OHVs greatest weakness is the heads. They like to crack. All the time.

6-7 PSI is RIGHT at the limit of the stock engine. Generally guys who run boost on their Ranger say stick to 5 PSI MAX on stock internals.

There are a few people who have run supers/turbos on the 4.0 SOHC running around here. No one with a OHV comes to mind though.
Originally Posted by rangerrunner11 View Post
Ive always heard you never go over 5psi too....uh oh lol. but who knows. itll be quick
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-2011
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Well unfortunately today, I was told the head did not pass the pressure test. SO, with that in mind I may choose to buy some aftermarket ones. This should help as other cast heads are supposedly thicker in certain areas.

Any thoughts or information to share?

I really feel that the actual short block is perfectly fine for 6-7psi.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
  #4  
Old 07-04-2011
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Some more pictures of recent progress! I'm officially a crack head...wait...

Decided to order some new heads along with ONE needed new valve. The heads seem to be much better than factory with better casting material and thickness. Overall cost was $500 for new heads, valve, labor, and pressure testing. Also, the heads have the 95TM design over the original 93TM.

Old heads, crack in head, chipped valve, and new heads...






Thanks,

Andrew
 
  #5  
Old 07-08-2011
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Oh hell ya, mushroom!
 
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