Stock 3.0+Nitrous
#1
02-23-2008
Stock 3.0+Nitrous
I have a simple ''Q''.How much Nitrous can a stock 3.0 handle properly tuned?
I'm currently running a 60 shot wet.I've heard rumors that i could go as high as 100 hp.I have knowledge with nitrous,but not the 3.0.I'm running NGK TR- 6 plugs gapped .045.The truck is an 05 Edge 5spd.auto.
Am I asking to much from my little 3.0?
I'm currently running a 60 shot wet.I've heard rumors that i could go as high as 100 hp.I have knowledge with nitrous,but not the 3.0.I'm running NGK TR- 6 plugs gapped .045.The truck is an 05 Edge 5spd.auto.
Am I asking to much from my little 3.0?
#2
02-23-2008
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
You might be. The bottom end on the 3.0 has failed on a bunch of different people whom don't even run adders at all. The same could be said about any engine, but it seems power added 3.0's have had their fair share of problems over the years.
Headgaskets have been the most common factor ( as it usually is whenever cylinder pressure is increased ).
You could try and go up one stage on your jetting and watch the fuel map and constantly re-index your plugs to see where it leads..
I'd stay with what you have if its working ENDLESS you have a spare motor laying around
Headgaskets have been the most common factor ( as it usually is whenever cylinder pressure is increased ).
You could try and go up one stage on your jetting and watch the fuel map and constantly re-index your plugs to see where it leads..
I'd stay with what you have if its working ENDLESS you have a spare motor laying around
#3
02-23-2008
Hey Tony... side note. My dad was raised in Groveland and I was raised about 30 miles west of that.
As far as nitrous goes. I'm pert near an expert these days.
There are three things that will allow for higher than *normal* shot sizes.
1) Avoiding initial lean out.
2) Ramping the shot size based on RPMs (or time)
3) Octane
1) Initial lean out is the biggest problem with typical nitrous kits. Make sure you shoot fuel first. This to some degree helps soften the "hit". And just to clearify.. when I say fuel first. I mean that a plume of fuel needs to leave your nozzle before the nitrous does. Depending on your setup and pipe lengths.. you'll have to figure out how to do it. (controller & pipe lengths)
2) If your shooting a 60 shot at say.. 2800 rpms (and it's living). Then it'll take a 90 shot at 4200 rpms and a 120 shot at 5600 rpms.
That may sound excessive. But what your currently shooting with an instant on system... is exactly what your doing. And in reality if your shooting nitrous first (which you probably are by default) your hitting it even harder than the numbers I suggest.
3) Common perception is that higher octanes burn slower. This is not true. The burn rate from one "pump gas" to another is the same. Increasing octane help prevent detonation.
Quote from Wikipedia:
Detonation in reciprocating engines is the uncontrolled supersonic explosion of the fuel-air charge, and is caused by excessively high combustion chamber temperatures. Increasing the temperature of the fuel-air charge increases the speed of combustion until the flame propagates at supersonic speeds, resulting in a pressure shockwave. This force is extremely destructive...
So when spraying on your stock 3.0L. I'd suggest a 90-100 shot ramped up. Shooting fuel first by 0.2 seconds (at the nozzle) and running octane thats up around 94-95 with stock timing. Maybe up around 95-96 if your timing is higher than stock. Also, the motor will rev quicker so I'd lower the shift points about 200-300 over whats optimim in NA form.
Rich
As far as nitrous goes. I'm pert near an expert these days.
There are three things that will allow for higher than *normal* shot sizes.
1) Avoiding initial lean out.
2) Ramping the shot size based on RPMs (or time)
3) Octane
1) Initial lean out is the biggest problem with typical nitrous kits. Make sure you shoot fuel first. This to some degree helps soften the "hit". And just to clearify.. when I say fuel first. I mean that a plume of fuel needs to leave your nozzle before the nitrous does. Depending on your setup and pipe lengths.. you'll have to figure out how to do it. (controller & pipe lengths)
2) If your shooting a 60 shot at say.. 2800 rpms (and it's living). Then it'll take a 90 shot at 4200 rpms and a 120 shot at 5600 rpms.
That may sound excessive. But what your currently shooting with an instant on system... is exactly what your doing. And in reality if your shooting nitrous first (which you probably are by default) your hitting it even harder than the numbers I suggest.
3) Common perception is that higher octanes burn slower. This is not true. The burn rate from one "pump gas" to another is the same. Increasing octane help prevent detonation.
Quote from Wikipedia:
Detonation in reciprocating engines is the uncontrolled supersonic explosion of the fuel-air charge, and is caused by excessively high combustion chamber temperatures. Increasing the temperature of the fuel-air charge increases the speed of combustion until the flame propagates at supersonic speeds, resulting in a pressure shockwave. This force is extremely destructive...
So when spraying on your stock 3.0L. I'd suggest a 90-100 shot ramped up. Shooting fuel first by 0.2 seconds (at the nozzle) and running octane thats up around 94-95 with stock timing. Maybe up around 95-96 if your timing is higher than stock. Also, the motor will rev quicker so I'd lower the shift points about 200-300 over whats optimim in NA form.
Rich
Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 02-23-2008 at 07:52 AM.
#4
02-24-2008
Thanks for the advice fellas.I'm gonna stick with 60hp. for now and look for a better n2o controller so i can ramp the shot,but still i probably wont go over 80 on the nitrous.
I have to remind myself this is my daily driver.
wydopnthrtl,My parents live in Groveland.Small world huh.
THANKS AGAIN,TONY
I have to remind myself this is my daily driver.
wydopnthrtl,My parents live in Groveland.Small world huh.
THANKS AGAIN,TONY
#5
02-28-2008
Ive used both of these. Have the FJO version for my R now.
http://www.racetested.com/index.php?...6f98b6f61d45e7
If you have a manual tranny I'd definately recommend that one. It takes a computer to program it.. but you'll be able to ramp for each gear shift. That will make the tranny not take such a hard spike on those shifts.
Rich
http://www.racetested.com/index.php?...6f98b6f61d45e7
If you have a manual tranny I'd definately recommend that one. It takes a computer to program it.. but you'll be able to ramp for each gear shift. That will make the tranny not take such a hard spike on those shifts.
Rich
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