Ranger Explorer 4.0L Supercharger Install - How To Step by Step - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

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  #51  
Old 05-20-2014
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@245Ranger

We've teamed up with Lasota Racing in Ohio. They sell you the Moddbox specific tune customized for whatever injectors you install. The will also customize it for whatever other changes you make. They offer the X4 tuner with custom tuning services to our customers for $499.

For X4 with custom tune options, click here: SCT X4

They also offer proRacer software, AFR modules, gauges and other tuning options as well. For more of what they sell, you can see their site here at lasotaracing.com. The 8psi dyno shown was done with our PLX AFR (for logging) and used their online service using just the X4. It was done all over email and was really easy to do :)

We did the 8psi with our PLX AFR module/sensor and just put it into the pre-cat stock O2 sensor (removed stock one temporarily while tuning). We will soon post up a simple walk-through on our website (using the PLX) so that it is really easy and straight forward for all our customers :)

Last edited by moddbox; 05-20-2014 at 10:45 AM.
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  #52  
Old 05-24-2014
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Sounds good! Thanks for the info.
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  #53  
Old 06-13-2014
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For a limited time, receive free shipping on all Moddbox orders of $299 or more. Visit our website :)
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  #54  
Old 06-20-2014
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Will the stock transmission handle this amount of hp and torque?
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  #55  
Old 06-21-2014
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Moddbox,

I'm going to look at some SuperChargers I found locally that I would like to purchase and then use with your kit in my truck. Can you offer some suggestions on what to look for when buying a used SuperCharger? One of them has the nose off but according to the guy selling it is still good. He has a couple and they have been sitting in his garage for 15 years. With that said is it recommended to do the nose rebuild? Thanks.
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  #56  
Old 06-21-2014
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@jimmy_stikx
The stock transmission has handled very well under even the highest boost levels we have tested at. In general, while driving more torque through the transmission you will create more friction... so that means more heat. Although it is not required, if you are planning to do lots of towing/etc, adding an in-line ATF cooler is a good idea. This will mitigate the added risk of heat buildup to your transmission (cause of 90% of AT failures). This is a very easy modification that can be done for under $80.

@shepeod
Superchargers don't really "go bad". Even if all the bearings are bad, so long as the inside of the cast aluminum case and the surfaces of the rotors have not been bent/deformed or heavily scratched the supercharger should be good for rebuilding.
:::Here are some tips on finding a quality salvage blower:::
Checking the rotor pack:
If you are not planning to replace the bearings/couplers/etc... the first thing to look for is make sure is that the rotorpack turns nice and smooth. Although you can never be sure until you get it up to >3000 rpm, a manual spin of the rotors with your hand should give you a good idea. ANY rubbing or touching of the rotors to one another or against th case will need a rebuild. The rear needle bearings (in the back of the case) really can't be inspected without bench testing, but typically they are okay. The front bearings (behind the rotor gears) often have leaky seals. Look inside the blower and look for traces of oil between the rotors and the case (front side of rotors). If there is any sign of oil on the rotor side, it NEEDS new bearing and seals in the rotor pack (needs a complete rebuild). *caution: hand turning can often force enough air to suck in material that can scratch/jam the rotors.
Checking the snout:
The snout is the most common thing to fail. The bearing & seal at the front (right behind the pulley) always begins to leak first. More often than not the snouts are covered in black soot from engine dust clinging to the fine particles of oil coming from the snout seal. This is a tell-tail sign that the snout bearing/seal should be replaced.
To be perfectly honest, I think 4 of 5 of our company owned r&d vehicles have just been "nice turning salvage blowers". Maybe we're too lazy to rebuild them until we have too... but more often than not, just using a decent salvage blower then rebuilding the snout when it is required proves to be the cheapest option (and the least amount of work). Rebuilding the snouts is so simple too... the rotor packs (on the other hand) are much more tricky.

Last edited by moddbox; 06-23-2014 at 09:03 PM.
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  #57  
Old 06-28-2014
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Subscribed! I just sent you guys an email but I think I've found most of the answers I need but scrolling through this thread. I would like to know if you would knock anything off of your price for the kit that includes the supercharger if I turn in a core, since I have already purchased a '93 t-bird m90. It spins and sounds smooth with the turn of a hand but I would still prefer to have it rebuilt before putting it on my truck. I'm also anxious to see your price for the intercooler kit.
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  #58  
Old 06-29-2014
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@biktheozarks (jeff)

Sorry for the delay in responding, it's Canada Long Weekend here and things get a bit crazy :)

As of this week, we pulled the "supercharger kits" and only offer the superchargers separately now (installation kits only). Since the superchargers are not our product, we want to differentiate the quality and detail of our parts from the rebuilt superchargers. Also, many customers like to port, polish, powdercoat/wrinkle paint etc and we want to leave that up to them.

We do not make any money on our superchargers either. We only take a small fee to cover our shipping and administrative costs and we do it for convenience only. Now that we are getting very busy... managing the superchargers has been very difficult. If you already have a core I highly suggest going directly to our rebuilder. Send it over to them and they will charger you what they charge us for rebuilding. They are called "supercharger sales" and they are located in Old Towne Florida (Supercharger Technologies - Supercharger Rebuilder). They also will give you a 3-year warranty (they do not offer port/polishing services however).
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  #59  
Old 06-30-2014
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That's funny because Supercharger Tech was who I was most likely going to use anyway for the rebuild. :) Thanks for your quick response. Any ETA on your intercooler kits?
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  #60  
Old 06-30-2014
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We'll keep you posted. Like us on facebook page for the latest details.
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  #61  
Old 07-12-2014
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Just posted a universal tuning blog. This is applicable for all custom supercharger/turbo installs and even naturally aspirated.
Check it out here: Moddbox Tuning Blog
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  #62  
Old 07-14-2014
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well after reading all this i think i am going to bail on my v8 swap. Very nice looking stuff!
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  #63  
Old 07-14-2014
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THX BLK :)
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  #64  
Old 08-02-2014
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Some Ranger enthusiasts had purchased the RP kit before ours was available and have requested that we package up some upgrade parts for it... so here it is:

**************************************
Do you already have an RP kit installed on your Ford Ranger? Do you want to upgrade it? Upon request, Moddbox would like to support RP Castor customers by offering the following products in a package deal. These are Moddbox products that are compatible to the Ford Ranger Banshee Supercharger Kit.

Package Includes:
255lph Fuel Pump (S130028A) - $109
EGR Extension Cable (S130028A) - $34
5.5psi Pulley (S130008A) - $149 (6PK - smaller than stock Thunderbird pulley)
8.0psi Pulley (S130009A) - $149 (6PK)
Quick Change Adapter (S130006A) - $99
Supercharger Emblems x2 - $29

MSRP $569
PACKAGE PRICE $279

Product available here
Ford Ranger RP Castor Upgrade Kit | ModdBoxModdBox

Last edited by moddbox; 08-02-2014 at 02:37 PM.
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  #65  
Old 11-04-2014
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Hello, I really like the kit offered here. It is nice for the 4.0's for sure however, I have a 5.0 and a good m90 I want to use as well. I realize the m112 is a better option, but I am working with what I've got here. I have seen plenty of people inquire about the long forgotten kits for our motors with no real progress. What would it take for your shop to consider building a manifold for us 5.0 guys?

Over all, I don't see much that would need to change with the kit as it stands now, given the obvious exception of the upper intake manifold. It'd be really really nice if we could get some attention too lol..
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  #66  
Old 11-04-2014
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meh i"ll buy a new truck before i bother super charging my pretty outdated ranger.
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  #67  
Old 11-04-2014
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Thanks for the interest travelor101!

We don't have an install kit for the 5.0 (as you know), but I promise we will have another look at it. We get requests almost every other week for the 5.0L so maybe we might offer some plenums or something. But if we do offer it, it will not be for the M90. The M90 (as per Eaton recommendations) is good for 3.0-5.0L engines. A "factory fit" for a 4.0L is ideal. We would go at least M112 or maybe M122. Heck... maybe dual with something small :)
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  #68  
Old 11-05-2014
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MODDBOX -> LOL, good deal. I am not against the m112 at all.. the m90's appeal to me was it being a subtle upgrade in power that didn't require a whole lot in the way of motor upgrades. I will look more into m112 setups and heck maybe I'll sell the m90 and my two turbos to go the m112 route after all. Who knows, just looking for a way to work with what I've got.


F.X.4 -> I am the type to keep things around. We are the last of the small size trucks now and it's all the more motivation for me to keep upgrading her. Personal preferences, right?

-Don't be surprised if you see me retro fitting a reactor core in there one of these days..
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