Tested the new mods. Well, kind of... LOL
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03-04-2007
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Tested the new mods. Well, kind of... LOL
Tried the new Escort GT-1 GTimer out once so far. LOL
Here are some quotes from a post on another forum about the GT-1 GTimer and a little test I did. LOL
Pay attention to the 14th (I think) post down about an early test result:
http://summersville.10.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=9103
Here are some quotes from a post on another forum about the GT-1 GTimer and a little test I did. LOL
$48 with shipping.
Brand new Escort/Passport GT1 GTimer!
Cheaper than a trip to the track.
Brand new Escort/Passport GT1 GTimer!
Cheaper than a trip to the track.
Mental note to self: Launching the Ranger will require FEATHERING the throttle. The 4.0 LIKES bolt-ons.
Well, I tried the timer today. I need to adjust the roll out, etc. to get more accurate times and I need to figure out just what my shift points and weight are to get a HP figure, but I was driving to get some gas and I thought I would stop and try it. Only calibration done was pushing the calibration button in the driveway. No finer settings done.
Well I though I would just flat foot the Ranger and let her go. Immediately it started spinning like crazy (60ft time was DISMAL) so I said "**** it" and stayed in it to see what it would do. 1st, 2nd, 3rd for a ways. I was impressed.
Time was not that great though: 16.03 quarter at 93mph (poor, but expected with the wheel spin. [see below]). I let up on it a little because of someone that had pulled out of the yard sell up the road. Gotta learn to launch and hate the spin.
0-60 in 8 seconds flat (On a later run to just 70mph while rolling out a few feet and then punching it. I figure that it can run a mid to high 7sec 0-60 easily with a proper launch. Suprising again.).
I took a pic out the windshield after getting back from the gas station. The guys in the tent up the road selling yard sale stuff were pointing and talking about it when I went back through.
Well, I tried the timer today. I need to adjust the roll out, etc. to get more accurate times and I need to figure out just what my shift points and weight are to get a HP figure, but I was driving to get some gas and I thought I would stop and try it. Only calibration done was pushing the calibration button in the driveway. No finer settings done.
Well I though I would just flat foot the Ranger and let her go. Immediately it started spinning like crazy (60ft time was DISMAL) so I said "**** it" and stayed in it to see what it would do. 1st, 2nd, 3rd for a ways. I was impressed.
Time was not that great though: 16.03 quarter at 93mph (poor, but expected with the wheel spin. [see below]). I let up on it a little because of someone that had pulled out of the yard sell up the road. Gotta learn to launch and hate the spin.
0-60 in 8 seconds flat (On a later run to just 70mph while rolling out a few feet and then punching it. I figure that it can run a mid to high 7sec 0-60 easily with a proper launch. Suprising again.).
I took a pic out the windshield after getting back from the gas station. The guys in the tent up the road selling yard sale stuff were pointing and talking about it when I went back through.
Yea, the Bama and the UDP really woke it up. The new 5speed auto is bad-***. It and the 4.10s are great together.
All it has is a modified airbox with an S&B drop in filter (no CAI for the newer Rangers with the slot-in MAF element configuration), Dynomax cat-back (really just a better muffler and prettier pipe [not much power gain]), underdrive crank pulley, and Bama SCT2 tuner, a deleted EGR, and the throttle slack taken out (most 4.0 OHC Rangers have one quarter inch slack which keeps them from getting true full throttle and affects throttle response).
It was on the 93 Performance tune today with no adjustments made other than shift points and firmness.
All it has is a modified airbox with an S&B drop in filter (no CAI for the newer Rangers with the slot-in MAF element configuration), Dynomax cat-back (really just a better muffler and prettier pipe [not much power gain]), underdrive crank pulley, and Bama SCT2 tuner, a deleted EGR, and the throttle slack taken out (most 4.0 OHC Rangers have one quarter inch slack which keeps them from getting true full throttle and affects throttle response).
It was on the 93 Performance tune today with no adjustments made other than shift points and firmness.
http://summersville.10.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=9103
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#3
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The EGR delete was done because I hate them. I am old-school about that. I hear all kinds of **** about how they are of a benefit, but if that was true then race cars would have them. I am not falling for it. Less heat, etc. in the intake=better to me. I also got the rear 02s turned off so I can fit my true duals how I want (when I get to it).
I got the Escort from Radar Roy. Ask for the $40 GT-1 GTimer. He sells them for that every once in a while.
sales@radarbusters.com
I got the Escort from Radar Roy. Ask for the $40 GT-1 GTimer. He sells them for that every once in a while.
sales@radarbusters.com
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#8
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Ok somebody mensioned you have an auto in the truck that did that burnout, is that true?? because my fx4 will not burn out if its life depended on it (mines got the torsen though) so did the tuner really make that much difference?? because mine has no power off the line and i really want to fix that..
uhhh, ok i looked again and i couldent find wherei saw 5pd auto, im goin nuts..
so is it auto or manual?
nice burnout by the way..
JOSH
uhhh, ok i looked again and i couldent find wherei saw 5pd auto, im goin nuts..
so is it auto or manual?
nice burnout by the way..
JOSH
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Originally Posted by mustanger1986
Hey i got a 4.0 sohc how do you take the slack out of the accel. cable
and also whats involved in the egr delete, will you have a check engine light?
and also whats involved in the egr delete, will you have a check engine light?
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=26881
No pics of the EGR delete, but you have to have the egr function turned off in the SCT tuner. I just made a block off plate for where the valve bolts to the intake (made out of billet aluminum plate), took off the valve, took off the pipe, left the EGR electronic sensor hooked up, took off the vacuum line for the valve and plugged it, took tapered pipe fitting out of the manifold, and drilled out the hole in it and threaded it to accept a 3/8" pipe plug. That way if I want to hook it all back up to fake out the dealer, it will still be non-fuctional but look all hooked up.
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Originally Posted by BBBB51
where did u grab the udp from?
Here:
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05v6up.htm
It is an ASP pulley...
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Actually EGRs do create less heat and help emissions....
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
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#16
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Actually EGRs do create less heat and help emissions....
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
Again, if is was that good for a motor, then race cars would have them.
EGR dilutes the flame-supporting oxygen (bad) in the cylinder with injected (inert) exhaust, which slows combustion and therefore avoids NOx-creating temperature spikes. It cuts down on NOx production. That is its function. It is not a performance featue. That is my statement, it is out there, and I am sticking to it.
I want my oxygen, and I want it cold.
#17
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yes you are right but the EGRs dont work at WOT... only cruise, just like the old style vacuume advance did...
but i agree with you on takin it out it does make the intake hotter..if you ever worked on a carburated car where the manifold had the exhaust passage undernieth the carb youd know what i mean.. ive seen gas boil in the float bowls!!
JOSH
but i agree with you on takin it out it does make the intake hotter..if you ever worked on a carburated car where the manifold had the exhaust passage undernieth the carb youd know what i mean.. ive seen gas boil in the float bowls!!
JOSH
#18
03-06-2007
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#19
03-06-2007
Originally Posted by 06fx4 L2
because my fx4 will not burn out if its life depended on it (mines got the torsen though)
Rich
#20
03-06-2007
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Actually EGRs do create less heat and help emissions....
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
They create less heat by pushing exhaust into the intake thus not all the air in the intake is combustable. The more combustable the more heat is generated. Also with it reburning some exhaust it actually helps the efficency of the engine by burning up anything that was previously unburned cleaning up for emissions. Also deleting your EGR will make your truck lean out because the O2 sensors say its running rich, thus causing your truck to lean out. If that makes sense? When you reburn gas it takes out more particals and lowers emissions, when they are not burned your engine will send less fuel to the engine trying to compinsate for the high numbers. Doing so can hurt WOT and overall performance of a truck.
So I believe.
A flame front has to propagate through the molecules of fuel and air and the recirculated exhaust gases interfere slightly with that.
The slight slowdown of propagation allows the heat to be released over a longer time, reducing the peak temperature that is reached.
NOx emissions are a product of heat, oxygen and nitrogen. You can only control the oxygen and nitrogen so much, so what you primarily want to do is reduce the temperature of combustion without interfering with the expansion of the gases too much.
EGR accomplishes this when properly managed.
It's even used in industrial gas burners for furnaces to reduce NOx, believe it or not. It's been a useful tool for environmental compliance.
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