I started off with just a regular old efan....

All I used were 8 1/4" bolts, 16 1/4" washers, and 8 1/4" nuts, and 1/4" strap metal.

I cut the metal to length of the shroud, drilled a hole in each end of the metal and bolted it straight to the shroud.

Then I marked and drilled holes in the metal for the efan to sit. If you do it the way I did, you have to make sure the fan is on the inside (meaning as far in as possible) otherwise you won't clear the pullies.

Bolted her up and wired...and she's done :)

It didn't work for me, I overheated the 1st time I towed my 3k# trailer...but it most likely will work for anyone who doesn't tow.

 

Good write-up. I need to pick up a Taurus fan and do this. Your not running a controller, correct?

 

I'm actually not running it at all anymore, I ran it for 2 days or so. Then I overheated towing my trailer...no thanks!

I just had it directly wired to a switch, I don't mind at all, it would be on anyway all the time b/c of the AC. I haven't drove with my AC off in my truck almost since I got it.

 

You've got 2 problems there:

1- All that space around the fan between the shroud. That fan's sucking air from the path of least resistance....around the edges, not through the radiator.

2- The fan is too small. What is that, a 14" fan? You need more cfm...atleast 4000 if you plan to tow.

 

You can probably get by with that in MI, but not anywhere from central to southern US. I've tried that set up (and a few others), and they just will not keep the truck cool...especially when towing. I've got an 18" jeep fan that I plan to mount in the stock shroud when I get a chance. A friend runs one on his 2wd, and says it does a great job.

 

Yea, it would definetly work fine if it wasn't so hot here. It was 97 with 100 percent humidity that day...

In the pictures its way more gap than it really is. It just looks like theres 6" all the way around, there really isn't.

 

What you need is the OEM mechanical fan if you plan to tow!! It is designed
with more than enough cooling capacity!!!

 

someone shoot him now please. If efan's were not designed to tow, how come the new Chevy Silverado's come with them on their tow package?


An electric fan is fine for towing, you just have to size the fan properly. A Taurus fan would have done fine with a load, espically on a Ranger.


If you get a Taurus efan, then you can completely remove the stock fan shroud. The Taurus efan has a built in shroud that covers 98% of the radiator. My '97 4.0 had the Taurus efan on it, I could watch the temp gauge drop when the fan kicked on (and it only came on under heavy stop and go traffic).

 

I was thinking about the taurus...but I haven't had a problem with the mechanical. I need the reliability...although I might throw a taurus on...

 

The Taurus fan cooled my 4.0 more than it ever thought about, even when it was an automatic. I saw trans temps running lower than normal after I installed the Taurus fan.

 

Just recently I took a trip to alabama in a ranger with a mechanical fan towing about 2500lbs. The tranny ran from 160-200 degrees the whole time without an issue what so ever. Its got fresh fluid too, I used to get worried when it went over 160 on the efan, screw that I wont start worrying until its over 200 now.

 

the only time my Ranger ever went above 200* was the week I ran 35's and 3.73 gears. After I swapped out to 4.56's, it never went above 180*.

 

Wow, I must be doing good then...mine is at 165 the MAX and thats if I have to drop down a gear to accellerate. (this is towing 2 full size utes on a 6x12 trailer, at least 2k-2.5k#).

I HAVE hit 180 before, but that was up a grade, and I wasn't worrying about it.

I hit 210 with the efan...screw that!

In the city (w/o trailer) I'm at 150 consistenly, sometimes 165.

In the city towing I"ll get up to 165-180. Over 180 I start to worry. But I neve rhave EVER had a problem with the mechanical fan...just like good old faithful or something for me!

 

Yeah I have been 200-210 before and i have been way lower than that, normally intown i am at 150-160

I was shocked too, made me feel better about my trans.

 

This doesn't have to do with e-fan effectiveness but it's just something I don't know. How do you wire up an electric fan? Where do the wires hook up to and how do you put a switch somewhere in the circuit?

 

The mechanical setup will be way more reliable than any e-fan setup!

Just look at the components of an e-fan setup that can fail:

1) Fan electric motor
2) Wiring and connectors
3) fuse & fuse holder
4) e-fan controller (which has a relay)
5) temp sensor

 

But running a electric will increase the life of the water pump. If a relay or anything goes out it is easy to change. A water pump is not a easy change.

 

It is no use, Bob thinks he knows all and no one else knows anything. You are correct in your thinking.


So by what you are saying, the electrical systems in ALL vehicles are not reliable? They all have electric motors, wiring and connectors, fuses, fuse holders, relay's, and temp sensors. Bet you didn't think of that did ya smarty pants.

So Bob is saying someone needs to come up with a pnumatic vehicle with NO electrical parts what so ever.

 

All components have a failure rate. If you increase the number of components, the probability of a failure goes up, plain and simple......

 

The e-fan won't affect the water pump, most of the stress on the water pump seal and bearing comes from the pulley & belt which is still needed with the e-fan.

 

True. But if wired properly there should be no problem. Also relays and controllers are easier to replace.

 

You will be replacing a lot more than relays and controllers if your engine overheats!

 

If you are dumb enough to undersize the efan, then you deserve to replace extra parts.

You engine wont over heat if you have the proper efan. Get a clue and move on Bob, you WILL NEVER be right on this argument.

 

I check my gauges often. I would notice if the temp started creeping up.