i have a 1998 ranger that has like 100,000 miles on it, it is an automatic and a 3.0. I feel a clunking and when i pull out from a stop in my truck. I have heard that it might be the slip yoke but i watned to see if anyone experienced and problems like that and how and if they fixed them

Any advice would be greatly appriciated thanks

 

 

I went through the same problem with my 2002 4x4. At some point, Ford went to a 4" 1-piece aluminum driveshaft. They used to be a 3" 2-piece steel shaft. Basically, the rear U-joint is almost binding due to the axle wrap from accelerating and when you come to a stop. This force is transmitted up the driveshaft and causes the slip joint to bind. Ford has a TSB on this. My '02 has its third driveshaft in it, and the problem is back and getting worse. Basically, I'm almost ready for my fourth.

I have a copy of the TSB on an old computer collecting dust in the basement. I will try to get it out this weekend so I can post the TSB in my next reply.

Ford has a new driveshaft that looks considerably different for the '05s. I saw one on Ebay for $250 a couple of weeks ago. I don't know if this new shaft will finally alleviate the problem... maybe someone else can shed some light on that.

 

You can replace driveshafts or regrease the slip joint but it is only a temporary fix. Eventually, the clunk will return. I installed an inexpensive set of James Duff traction bars and eliminated the problem at the source by controlling the axle wrap. The JDs also do a decent job of reducing wheel hop.

http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/tracbar.html

 

Rwenzing, did you use the short or long traction bars? The short bars only fit through '97 but I've heard of people modifying them to make them fit newer trucks. Any tips for the rest of us driveline victims?

 

They are the short, inexpensive, above axle bars that are listed for the 97-back Ranger. Duff recently redesigned the L-brackets and they look a little more friendly toward 28-spline axles like yours. You may have to slot the holes slightly or bevel the edge of a bracket, but they fit onto the newer trucks without a lot of work.

 

Thanks for the info. Hopefully those traction bars will make my fourth driveshaft my last!

 

I'm running the JD bars and I still get the chatter, check out my home page for pics.

 

How do you regrease the slip joint and where is it at? I just got my ranger and it does this just a little bit so I need to do something to take care of it until I can do the traction bar mod.

 

I have the Superlift driveshaft and I get that sound sometimes too.

 

This thread is about a single thunk or bump feeling on launch or stop. If you have a chatter, that is something different.

 

You should follow the procedure and observe all safety precautions in the factory shop manual. This is a brief description of what's involved.

Remember that removing the rear driveshaft disables the PARK function on automatics. For safety, always set the P-brake and chock the tires. If raising the truck is necessary, use properly positioned jackstands of adequate capacity to support the truck; never work under a vehicle on a jack.

The driveshaft must be unbolted from the rear differential pinion flange. If you have 4WD, it must also be unbolted from the transfer case. On reassembly, the bolts must be torqued properly. Other years could be different but the 2002 S/M gives 82~83 lb-ft for the four bolts at each flange. If the bolts are not replaced, their threads must be recoated with threadlocking compound.

For the 4x4 or 4x2: Before disassembly, always mark the position of the driveshaft flange(s) relative to the mating flange at the diff and transfer case (if equipped). On 4x2's, which don't have a front flange, also mark the position of the driveshaft relative to the tailshaft housing. Reassembly must be done in the same orientation to avoid disturbing the overall balance of the system. Never hammer on a driveshaft or its components. The rear flange fits tightly on a pilot on the pinion flange of the rear diff and can be carefully removed by prying rather than hammering.

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On 4x2's, the slip yoke is forward of the front U-joint and slides into the transmission tailshaft housing where its splines engage the output shaft.

If yours is a 4x4, the slip yoke engages the splines on the front of the driveshaft with a boot covering it. After removing the clamps and boot, the slip joint can be regreased and reassembled with a new boot and clamps. The clamps are supposed to be crimped with a special dealer tool. You should use the factory tool or equivalent; if you decide to improvise, the clamps must be tight enough to retain the grease and exclude water and dirt.

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The only lube to use is the Ford PTFE grease sold specifically for this application. You can buy the grease separately for 4x2's. For the 4x4's, there is a "kit" which includes a boot, 2 clamps and a single dose of grease. I got these numbers from a post on RPS:

regrease kit for 4x4 steel driveshaft slip yoke - F87Z-4K277-AA
regrease kit for 4x4 aluminum driveshaft slip yoke - 4L5Z-4K277-AA

It would be best to confirm the correct part number for your particular year and application. The dealer can check the Technical Service Bulletins to get your part number. There have been many TSBs for this complaint but a recent one is:

04-23-7 NOV 04 Driveline - Thump/Clunk on Acceleration/Braking

 

I think meatloaf is having the same driveline problem we have been discussing. Call it what you want... chatter, clunk, thud. I told the dealer mine was a shudder. Sounds like the same problem to me.

 

Does anybody know EXACTLY where it is comming from? The u joints are fine, I still think it's the driveshaft slip joint. I guess I'll just have to get under there, remove it, grease it and reinstall. I hate trial and error though.

 

i know its been a whille... but i want to bring this topic back...

i have the recall work done on my steel DS and replaced with the new alum. one... well now its starting to "thump" preety bad too... it starts to do it evan when i and just about to come to a complete stop... but now i am out of warrenty will the dealership cover anouther drive shaft?

 

My dealer told me that there is a Parts and Service Warranty. I had to push them for it, and once they knew that I knew, they spilled the beans. The Parts and Service Warranty supposedly is 12 months or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first) from the date the service work was performed.

Even if your truck is out of warranty, if it has been less than 12/12,000 since that driveshaft was replaced, they should cover it. If you're within that window, you may have to pressure them though. They deliberately deceived me until I told them that I KNEW there was a P/S warranty.

The latest TSB does not call for driveshaft replacement. In the latest TSB, they will remove the driveshaft assembly and inspect the slip yoke for metal shavings. If metal shavings are found, they will clean the yoke, grease the yoke, reassemble the driveshaft, and CHARGE YOU FOR IT. Then they will order the new slip yoke, schedule you for another service appointment, perform the slip yoke replacement, AND CHARGE YOU FOR THAT!

If your dealer doesn't have the slip yoke kit on hand already, you get serviced twice, and charged for both! I guess Ford is attempting to recover some of the money they lost on faulty driveshafts (I have had three shafts, and one new slip yoke, all within 50,000 miles).

Before the dealer performs ANY work, you should insist that they have a slip yoke kit on hand, so you the truck does not have to be serviced twice (and you pay twice).

Mike P., when I get home tonight, I will scan the latest TSB. PM me with your email address and I will send the TSB to you, since I do not have a place to host images.

 

Would It Do It When Shifting Some Times

 

Hey guys, I've been trying to figure out how to describe the sound I get. I'd call it a "thunk" and there can be one-to-four(ish) of them, depending on how hard I am accelerating or decelerating. If I shift into N I don't get them (while stopping). It almost seems like something is torquing more and more, it stays that way while I coast, and then untorques when I stop. I'm going crazy trying to figure out where to look for the problem. I don't think I've reproduced it in reverse gear but there was very little scientific testing there. Any tips are appreciated. 2005 FX4 4.0