Exhaust manifold change SUCKS - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Ford Discussion General discussion of Ford vehicles not pertaining to the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-23-2012
dixie_boysles's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 3,778
Exhaust manifold change SUCKS

well changed out the passenger side exhaust manifold Saturday and it was NOT fun

Well we got her done, 7 hours for the first time ever doing it, and you guys were RIGHT! it was a major PITA. Luckily we were 8 for 8 on the studs, none broken, they all actually looked really good (no rust) The culprit was the very back port on the passenger side, gasket fail. However, it got new everything, studs, manifold, gaskets, etc....

Had the inner fender fender liner out and top 4 studs out within 45 minutes. Bottom studs were a different story, you couldnt even see the front bottom two for the most part. plus you had to work blind behind the strut tower. Top starter bolt was a pain as well! Also for anyone attempting this, you BETTER have access to a Fine Tooth Snap On Rachet that has moving head or you will be cussing the studs

Steps we took:

1) Jack truck up
2) remove tire and inner fender
3) Start removing studs. Back two can be removed with a ratchet, front tow, use a 13mm wrence (gear wrench would be great)
4) Once you remove top 4, time for the fun to begin.
5) unbolt flange from bottom of manifold
6) remover converters if possible (i had to cut the pipe right after last converter and slide the converter section down because the only path for the manifold to come out is the hole where flange is. Having it rewelded this morning.
7) Remove starter (top bolt sucks, having a second person viewing fron up top is a must so you can have them guide you where the darn bolt it
8) start loosining the bottom studs by whatever means possible and PRAY you dont break a bottom one, or you MAY BE pulling engine.
9) take the big engine mount nut off and jack engine up as far as it will let you
10) fish out manifold best you can

11) clean matin surface up good, and put all the studs in BUT the bottom front two or three (clearance issues)
12) once all studs are in, place new gaskets on the studs, the studs will hold them
13) fish in the new manifold and place on studs, then put a few nuts on a few of the studs to hold in place
14) place remaining two or three studs in remaining holes
15) once all studs are in, tighten nuts on studssnug, then starting from front to back tighten top and bottom at same time (one person up top and one underneath)
16) let engine down put engine mount nut back on
17) put starter back on
18) mount up converter section you moved and bolt up the flange
19) put inner fender liner in, bolt up wheel
20) Crank up and listen to a tick free exhaust!!

putting those bottom front two studs back in and tightening the nuts on them SUCKED

truck going under the knife



As you can see, I had a nice gasket failure. There were rust deposits on the mating surface of the exhaust manifold on the rear port. looks like they pushed up the gasket and allowed the gasket to bend under the extreme heat.



also, you see, the studs were in excellent condition, but we put new everything in. these were the top studs

Attached Thumbnails
Exhaust manifold change SUCKS-2012-04-21_14-31-45_340.jpg   Exhaust manifold change SUCKS-2012-04-21_20-42-14_356.jpg   Exhaust manifold change SUCKS-2012-04-21_16-06-32_624.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-23-2012
djfllmn's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: York, PA
Posts: 5,796
damn you did get lucky dude
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-23-2012
Lord Of War's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 4,599
How much would it have cost you to have it done at a shop?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-23-2012
dixie_boysles's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 3,778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Of War View Post
How much would it have cost you to have it done at a shop?
Funny that you ask lol. Dealerships wouldnt even quote me a price over the phone. But from what ive seen on the F150 forums, it ranges from $500-$1000 PER SIDE and extra charge per broken stud, So i managed to get mine done for $207 all together, im not complaining, id rather have the busted knuckles and headache than pay that much.

Dorman Exhaust Manifold: 104.99
comes with gasket and flange studs

Manifold mounting studs: 12.99

Put in the Code VISA at checkout @ www.advanceautoparts.com and got it all for a grand total of :

$87.00 parts
+
$100 labor
+
$20 for rewelding part of the exhaust pipe we had to cut
=
$207 Total!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-23-2012
Lord Of War's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Thornton, Colorado
Posts: 4,599
Sounds like it was a lot of work but for $207 you cant go wrong.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-23-2012
FULLSCALE's Avatar
Level III Supporter

iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Clinton, Ontario
Posts: 8,181
Good deal... those sure are common to go. Price two of them to customers just today!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-23-2012
StxDangerRanger's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Flat Rock, Mi
Posts: 6,313
Good deal man.
Your lucky they were in such good shape. I've spent days doing manifolds before.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-24-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 347
Nice. Saved 300+ bucks. Now go buy a programmer.

Manifold gaskets... don't run them on cast iron manifold to cast iron head setups... they'll just blow out over time. I filed the manifold (not cyl. head) mating surface flat, and bolted it back onto the truck. No leaks.

As for not using gaskets on a aluminum head and cast iron manifold setup, I have no idea if the above trick would work or not. Anyone know?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-24-2012
dixie_boysles's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 3,778
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996DangerRanger View Post
Nice. Saved 300+ bucks. Now go buy a programmer.

Manifold gaskets... don't run them on cast iron manifold to cast iron head setups... they'll just blow out over time. I filed the manifold (not cyl. head) mating surface flat, and bolted it back onto the truck. No leaks.

As for not using gaskets on a aluminum head and cast iron manifold setup, I have no idea if the above trick would work or not. Anyone know?
I have a programmer lol.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-24-2012
ford4life's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 479
Quote:
Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
Funny that you ask lol. Dealerships wouldnt even quote me a price over the phone. But from what ive seen on the F150 forums, it ranges from $500-$1000 PER SIDE and extra charge per broken stud, So i managed to get mine done for $207 all together, im not complaining, id rather have the busted knuckles and headache than pay that much.

Dorman Exhaust Manifold: 104.99
comes with gasket and flange studs

Manifold mounting studs: 12.99

Put in the Code VISA at checkout @ www.advanceautoparts.com and got it all for a grand total of :

$87.00 parts
+
$100 labor
+
$20 for rewelding part of the exhaust pipe we had to cut
=
$207 Total!
Hopefully the 04+ doorman manifolds are better than the 97-03 Mine cracked right in half not even a year later.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-25-2012
dixie_boysles's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 3,778
Quote:
Originally Posted by ford4life View Post
Hopefully the 04+ doorman manifolds are better than the 97-03 Mine cracked right in half not even a year later.
We will see, from what I have heard, alot of Dorman's stuff is better than OEM because they take and change the failure points that were on OEM. I just put a Dorman window regualator in and you can tell its better built than the Ford OEM one. If it fails, I guess Ill do it again, but it will be free parts :D
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-25-2012
ford4life's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Livonia, MI
Posts: 479
Quote:
Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
We will see, from what I have heard, alot of Dorman's stuff is better than OEM because they take and change the failure points that were on OEM. I just put a Dorman window regualator in and you can tell its better built than the Ford OEM one. If it fails, I guess Ill do it again, but it will be free parts :D
Dude at autozone tried telling me there won't exchange it as soon as i walked in the door. "We can't take that" Oh yes you will I got pissed real fast and change how the talked
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Intake manifold bolts loosen after lower gasket change? BL00DPIG 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 7 10-06-2014 11:29 AM
Intake Manifold Gasket/Intake Manifold fordboston 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 6 01-25-2010 10:37 PM
Removing EGR Tube from Header (Exhaust Manifold) WowMike2001 General Ford Ranger Discussion 16 02-26-2008 06:09 AM
Exhaust Manifold Bolts Gone Marcaronio 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech 10 06-25-2007 01:05 PM
Exhaust Manifold Leak Hefavitzen SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines 4 06-29-2006 03:30 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:38 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.