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  #1  
Old 11-14-2010
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Plug change

Just ordered mine from Rockauto, $73 bucks. Hopefully this will fix my misfire on startup issue since it wasn't the ignition coil.

Any tips? I think I'm going to try and just impact them out like Zach did, I have the Lisle tool in case they break though.

Did you guys remove the intake? Looks like there will be more room that way, I already know about pulling the computer.

Oh one thing does the dielectric grease go in the coil plug boot or on the boot itself?
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Old 11-14-2010
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I think I put a little on the plug itself. like on the end, no where else really.

I honestly cant remember if i removed the intake. I think i did remove the tube.

Use the impact.
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Old 11-14-2010
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I'm borrowing his tool and doing it to my dads truck after he does his, not looking forward to it either lol. Zach did you do it when the truck was cold or hot? I remember you doing it with the impact and not breaking any.

I saw a lot of people saying to use electric impacts and stuff, but I'm jut gonna use my normal 1/2" drive pneumatic craftsman on normal PSI and hope for the best
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Old 11-14-2010
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Done it 3 times without an impact on 5.4s' and no issues. Good luck
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Old 11-14-2010
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I just removed the intake tube, its like one bolt if I remember and other than that just move to computer stuff out of the way. Make sure you have the correct spark plug socket before you start, cause someone borrowed mine and never returned it lol. I did mine warm, with a 3/8 air impact the only problem with the 1/2 is trying to fit it under the deck to get to the back ones.
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Old 11-14-2010
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Yeah I have a 3/8 air impact in the garage. Hopefully it'll be done by the end of the week.

Doing a fuel pressure test to see if I have a bad injector as well, been doing some reading and that seems to be a common problem with a lot of 05s and some 06s. That would explain why it smells like gas bad when it doesn't start.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Well I'm an idiot and totally forgot about Advance Auto's promo codes. I'll end up still saving money returning the ones to Rock Auto. Heres the Advance total:

Product Subtotal: $63.92
Discounts: -$24.00
Shipping Charges: $0.00
Tax: $3.09
Total: $43.01

I'll be changing them tonight..woo!
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Old 11-16-2010
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Good luck!!!
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Old 11-16-2010
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If they come out okay, feel free to stroll on over here and do mine...
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Old 11-16-2010
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Why are you guys using impact wrenches on spark plugs? Our F250 is almost at 50,000 miles and I was thinking of changing out the plugs on the motor - also a 5.4 liter.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winks View Post
Why are you guys using impact wrenches on spark plugs? Our F250 is almost at 50,000 miles and I was thinking of changing out the plugs on the motor - also a 5.4 liter.
Is yours the 3 valve 5.4? The 5.4 plugs in the 04-06 F-150s have a tendency to break. A lot of guys have had luck spinning them out fast with a impact wrench before they get a chance to break.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Great... a quick search tells me that it's a 3 valve 5.4. I'm pretty sure that these are the original plugs on the truck, at 50,000 would you guys think I should change them, or just leave them in?
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Old 11-16-2010
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On f150online a lot of guys change them at around 50,000-60,000 just so they come out easier. I have like 68k on my truck

I would double check that it has the same issue, I'm not 100% sure if it does or not.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Yeah, one of the first things that came up on google was "broken plug in my F250..." not a good sign.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Yeah I just checked the TSB and it does apply for your truck as well, its a 2005 right?

I'm really hoping using a impact doesn't mess something up lol. In the TSB it clearly states no air tools, oh well I'm trusting Beard haha
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Old 11-16-2010
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Yeah, it's a 2005.

I don't think it's speed of the impact wrench that is what's really helping out - I think that there is less of a chance of the spark plug breaking because there's less side to side movement on the spark plug due to not ratcheting with the typical ratchet wrench.

If you want to experiment, you can break the spark plug threads free with a ratchet, then take out the spark plug with a power drill and socket using an attachment. Using that process, you'd have a similar process avoiding the impact gun.
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Old 11-16-2010
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I would think that breaking it free with a ratchet would put a strong side load on it, more than slowly unscrewing it. Could be wrong.
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Old 11-16-2010
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That could be.
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Old 11-16-2010
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the reason the plugs break is not due to side to side movement its is actually due to the build up of carbon on the spark plug causing them to get stuck. i would assume those who do it early and often it is because there is less time for the carbon to build up. here is fords removal process



"Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
Back out the spark plugs no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Using Motorcraft® Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner, fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits (1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon). A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
NOTE: COMPLETELY REVIEW THE PRODUCT LABEL FOR THE MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER PRODUCT - USE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND SHAKE WELL.

CAUTION: EXCESSIVE MOTORCRAFT® CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH CLEANER FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR SPARK PLUG REMOVAL. SPARK PLUGS MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.



Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m). Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs.
NOTE: NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP. (Figure 1)
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Old 11-16-2010
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That's some good info, thanks Adam.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Well that was a huge mistake, time to let the professionals mess with it.

FML
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Old 11-16-2010
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What happened?
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Old 11-16-2010
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First 3 came out great. Then the one in the back is just spinning in the hole, it won't come out with the socket so i cant tell if its broke or WTF is wrong with it.

Went over to the first one on the driver side and it broke and left the porcelain inside, hooked up the lisle tool and of course i don't have a big enough socket to be able to use the lisle tool.

Moved to the next one and its just spinning in the hole too, I have no idea why its doing that. So now I'm just fed up with it, this stress isn't worth how much it will cost to get it fixed.
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Old 11-16-2010
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Sounds like they are stripped out.
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Old 11-16-2010
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What do you mean stripped out? I think the plug would still come out with the socket though. I don't know anymore, I'm just done messing with it.
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