I replaced my front brake pads a few weeks ago, and had the rotors turned as well. The truck only had 49,000 miles, but the front-right caliper was dragging, so I did the entire front end.

Today, I finally got around to bleeding the brakes. I always bleed the system when I do brake work. I managed to bleed both rear drums and one front caliper. Before attmepting to open the bleed valves, I hit them with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few hours. The bleed valve (or banjo valve, as the guys at AutoZone called it) in the front-right caliper would not come out.

After rounding off the brass nut, I then proceeded in removing a substantial amount of brass with the Vice Grips without breaking the nut. I have given up - at least until I can have some spare banjo nuts on hand for the inevitable replacement.

Finally getting to the question... AutoZone doesn't carry banjo nuts. The dealership's parts department was closed by the time I ran into trouble. I'm sure they will have bleed valves, or at least be able to order them. Does anyone know of any other places that might carry them? I'd like to finish this job on Sunday... then move on to the next!

 

try a napa store. they ususally carry them. try also a local hardware store or an O'raily autoparts store.

 

If anybody would have them, I thought it would be Napa. I called them this morning, and three other parts stores, but no luck. I'll hit the Ford dealer tomorrow, and should be back on the road.

 

auto zone has them ive gotten them there for a firend im almost positive they will have them

 

Banjo nuts/bolts are a different thing entirely. Those are called bleeder screws.

Banjo's are ring fittings and bolts with holes drilled in them that are a type of hydraulic fitting.

 

Well, the guys at AutoZone don't have them in a Ranger-specific part number, but they told me that they might be able to match it with a screw from a generic kit. Then again, they were calling it a banjo nut, which John points out as being something entirely different:
I'll hit up the dealer tomorrow, but as usual, I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions. Thanks to all.

 

They are like banjo's in that they have a hole in them. I had a similar problem with a rear wheel cylinder -- I just replaced the whole cylinder, lol.

 

Ha! My stuck bleed screw is on a caliper, so I hope I don't have to replace it. A re-manufactured caliper is $65 at AutoZone, and that's with the $27 core!

 

Yeah, I'd try to fix the front also rather than replace it. My rear brakes were SOOOOO cruddy though, I decided to just put a bunch of new parts in. I hate drum brakes.

 

I definitely don't want to replace my caliper, but it looks like replacement might be the only option, unless I hit the junk yard or buy a generic kit, with assorted bleed valves in it.

I called the Ford dealer this morning, and Ford does not have a part number for bleeder valves past model year 2000. They said they go to Napa or AutoZone to get valves when they need them. When I call Napa or AutoZone, they don't have anything, but will try to match the old valve to a generic valve.

Who knew that a $0.79 part could be so frustrating?

 

Getting back to the original issue, the RF caliper dragging....

Usual cause is a bad flexible hose. I can usually pick up on that pretty quick by puching the piston back inot the caliper, like you do to load new pads. If it's hard, I crack the hose fitting and try again. (Yes, I know you'll end up bleeding after doing that) If it is substantially easier with the hose cracked, replace the hose.

Actually, anytime I feel like a caliper is dragging (heat, pads worn much more than opposite side, etc.) I replace the hose. What happens is they tend to crack the internal lining of the hose which creates a little flap that traps pressure, just acts like a check valve, and won't release the pressure. Result is a dragging caliper, but the cause is USUALLY the hose. FWIW.

 

I hadn't thought about a problem with the flex hose. After I did the front brake job, my thoughts gravitated to, "What happens if I didn't fix this dragging caliper?" As part of the brake job, I cleaned and re-lubed the guide pins, and the counter-bored holes that they fit into, inside the caliper bracket. That seems to have fixed it. I'm glad it did, because I wouldn't known what else to do if the problem persisted. And if the problem returns, now I know to look at the flex line. Good info.