21.7mpg to 15.4mpg after engine swap - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 01-30-2011
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I am seeing 21mpg now after the timing was reset, but whenever going up a small or steep hill at 65 to 75mph in 5th the speed starts to drop sharply and I have to down shift to 3rd gear to have the power to get up the hill (there is only about a 300-500lbs payload on the truck).
When driving straight and level the motor will do a short shutter or lurch somewhat, not a large shutter or lurch but a small shutter or lurch ….it does this about every 5 to 10 minutes its almost unnoticeable (but I am looking for it now) and then sometimes it is very noticeable; and sometimes I have to downshift into 4th.
Don’t know if this is important but the Truck coolant temp is steady at 180.
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  #27  
Old 01-30-2011
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Originally Posted by Turbo Roadster View Post
I don't see how the gap is going to effect the power of a non-boosted motor unless it is way out of spec on the wide side i.e. 0.070"+.
Gap is a direct correlation of cylinder pressure and coil voltage. Higher cylinder compression will snuff out a worn or over gapped plug if the coil voltage is marginal, don't know what the coil voltage of a 3.0 motor is but I am sure it is at least 40,000 volts so you should be able to run a gap of at least 0.045" or more before you would see any problem with the plugs.
I would be more concerned with wires bleeding off spark (arching) or too high of a resistance in the wires but that will usually effect idle more than top end.
I would check cam specs between the Taurus and Ranger cams and static cam timing.
Cam lift and duration can move your power and torque band all over the place.
Without getting into a bunch of engineering discussions on plug temps, cam and compression ratios I would check to see what plug temp range your running ohm out your wires and see what cam you got before I would start blaming something you don't even know what it is.
I am seeing 21mpg now after the timing was reset, but whenever going up a small or steep hill at 65 to 75mph in 5th the speed starts to drop sharply and I have to down shift to 3rd gear to have the power to get up the hill (there is only about a 300-500lbs payload on the truck).
When driving straight and level the motor will do a short shutter or lurch somewhat, not a large shutter or lurch but a small shutter or lurch ….it does this about every 5 to 10 minutes its almost unnoticeable (but I am looking for it now) and then sometimes it is very noticeable; and sometimes I have to downshift into 4th.
Don’t know if this is important but the Truck coolant temp is steady at 180.
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  #28  
Old 01-30-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubblewrap View Post
I am seeing 21mpg now after the timing was reset, but whenever going up a small or steep hill at 65 to 75mph in 5th the speed starts to drop sharply and I have to down shift to 3rd gear to have the power to get up the hill (there is only about a 300-500lbs payload on the truck).
When driving straight and level the motor will do a short shutter or lurch somewhat, not a large shutter or lurch but a small shutter or lurch Ö.it does this about every 5 to 10 minutes its almost unnoticeable (but I am looking for it now) and then sometimes it is very noticeable; and sometimes I have to downshift into 4th.
Donít know if this is important but the Truck coolant temp is steady at 180.
Have you checked your plugs, wires yet? You might also want to check your fuel filter and pump for pressure you should have at the minimum 50 psi.
You can do the wiggle test, with the engine running and paying attention to moving parts start shaking and pulling gently on all the electrical connections i.e coil, mass air, throttle position switch, fuel injectors, crank position sensor etc. If while doing this and the motor changes that might be a possible area to check.
Good luck and let us know what you find!
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  #29  
Old 01-30-2011
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Originally Posted by Turbo Roadster View Post
You might also want to check your fuel filter and pump for pressure you should have at the minimum 50 psi.
Measured at the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail, the OP's 1994 should have roughly 30 PSI at idle and roughly 40 PSI at WOT.
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  #30  
Old 01-30-2011
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
Measured at the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail, the OP's 1994 should have roughly 30 PSI at idle and roughly 40 PSI at WOT.
Thanks for the correction, I don't have any specs for the 3.0 and my post was general knowledge for late model injectors. I have seen systems with a little over 40 psi not even crack (overcome the spring tension) the injectors.
That is good knowledge for this thread.
Do you have the correct plug specs, and wire resistance?
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  #31  
Old 01-30-2011
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Originally Posted by Turbo Roadster View Post
Do you have the correct plug specs, and wire resistance?
I don't have a 94 shop manual or anything close. Plug gap specs and part number should be on the underhood emission label and/or in the owners' manual.
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  #32  
Old 02-09-2011
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Originally Posted by Turbo Roadster View Post
Have you checked your plugs, wires yet? You might also want to check your fuel filter and pump for pressure you should have at the minimum 50 psi.
You can do the wiggle test, with the engine running and paying attention to moving parts start shaking and pulling gently on all the electrical connections i.e coil, mass air, throttle position switch, fuel injectors, crank position sensor etc. If while doing this and the motor changes that might be a possible area to check.
Good luck and let us know what you find!

Getting new plugs and wires today
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  #33  
Old 02-11-2011
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Did you drop a complete Taurus motor in? I know nothing about those motors but it might be possible the two different applications of that motor may use different size injectors.
Ford dropped the 5.0 in mustangs and Lincolns with 19lb injectors and T-birds along with other cars only got 14lb injectors.
I talked to Ford today and learned that there is a great big difference with the engine for a Taurus vs Ranger engine.

The Mechanic will be putting in a Ford Ranger engine in next week.
They found out that the timing is totally different, the cam is different, the PCM is different and some other things.

So, in conclusion a Ford Taurus engine can not be just dropped into a Ranger without changes made to the engine and the sensors are a big issue.

Thank you everyone for the help.
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  #34  
Old 02-12-2011
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
I'm not buying the idea that the cam makes such a drastic difference in FE or even that the Taurus cam is that much different from a Ranger cam. I'd definitely look elsewhere.
Talked to Ford and they claim that the cam is a big issue plus the sensors and timing
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  #35  
Old 02-12-2011
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I assume that you really mean that you talked to somebody at a Ford DEALER. None of us have ever heard any BS at a car dealer....right?

The cam profile is not the big hitter for the 30~35% FE drop that you have seen. If anything, the cam is a very small part of the equation. The 3.0 Ranger and 3.0 Taurus Vulcan cam timing would be the same or similar because they are both set up to work with automatics, both are emission compliant, both are relatively low RPM pushrod engines, neither has variable cam timing.
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  #36  
Old 02-12-2011
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
I assume that you really mean that you talked to somebody at a Ford DEALER. None of us have ever heard any BS at a car dealer....right?

The cam profile is not the big hitter for the 30~35% FE drop that you have seen. If anything, the cam is a very small part of the equation. The 3.0 Ranger and 3.0 Taurus Vulcan cam timing would be the same or similar because they are both set up to work with automatics, both are emission compliant, both are relatively low RPM pushrod engines, neither has variable cam timing.
Talked to both and that is where it kind of got weird...Ford Dealer said that the Taurus cam is the breaker but so is the timing...
The Ford Motor Co guy said that if my Ranger is Automatic then there should be no issue if the PCM is updated but that's the catch; my Ranger is stick shift and he explained this is the main issue seeing as the cam, timing, sensors and PCM come into play.
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  #37  
Old 06-25-2011
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O.P. !! Old People ????

Hey , Some of us O.P. grauduated from "Rocksprings Area techinal School back in the 60's in Auto Tech ! We may be out dated in some areas but, the mechanicals never change ! It's the Cam !!! My thoughts Bud
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