I have an 87, 91, 93 performance tunes for my truck I ran the 93 tune with 91 octane and a booster and loved it!! The booster is expensive though.

I did a Google search for "homemade octane booster". There are tons of formulas there. Most have "Toluene" or "Isopropyl Alcohol" that's rubbing alcohol. Should this sort of thing be filed in the stupid question file or are some of these safe to do?

Here is an example of one.:
100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
Ever price rubbing alcohol? It's dirt cheap.

Look at the store bought boosters and they aren't much more than jet fuel and that's kerosene. Just wondering, I really like the 93 tune and store bought octane boosters are a rip off.

This is an honest question, I'm not trying to be a bonehead.

 

id be wary just because if its not a perfect formula it might get so hot and hurt the engine in some way

 

 

Jet fuel is clear to straw colored. The most common fuel is an unleaded/paraffin oil-based fuel classified as JET A-1, which is produced to an internationally standardized set of specifications. In the United States only, a version of JET A-1 known as JET A is also used. See the section for JET A below.
The only other jet fuel that is commonly used in civilian aviation is called JET B. JET B is a fuel in the naptha-kerosene region that is used for its enhanced cold-weather performance.



Kerosene or kerosine, also called paraffin oil or paraffin in British usage (not to be confused with the waxy solid also called paraffin wax or just paraffin) is a flammable hydrocarbon liquid. The name is derived from Greek "keros" (????? wax). See the 'Common names' section below for common names used in various countries.


Nothing really special about jet fuel except it sounds cool, kerosene doesn't.

 

You shoulda quoted that part of the wikipedia article.

 

I use 110 octane from a air port near me which is air plane fuel. I mix it with 91 which is all I can get around here.

 

That's why I was asking about a booster.



Quote:
It is widely used to power jet-engined aircraft

I didn't think I needed to I kinda thought that was a given.

 

"Jet fuel is kerosene" and "jet fuel is kerosene derived" is a big difference. Your quotes point out similarities. But jet fuel is more purified and non-cancer causing(apparently).

They aren't putting Kerosene in jets. They're putting refined kerosene. But I'm sure either works fine judging by the info i found online.

 

lol to your avatar vindex

 

Thanks, super jet.






"Jet fuel is kerosene" and "jet fuel is kerosene derived" is a big difference.

You're right, the base is kerosene. Just drawing to the fact that octane boosters boast "made from jet fuel" sounds cool and hi tech but in fact it's kerosene.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program. What do you think of homemade octane booster?

 

How much would it "boost" the octane? store bought boosters only raise octane .3 points...(generic number).

 

out of curiosity, what are you doing that you need octane that high?

 

Wow, too many people who think they know what they're talking about for one thread to handle. By the way, toulene is fine to use, but with our street pumps, if you find you need to use it, put a little 2 stroke oil in the mix (a tablespoon per half gallon to gallon depending on how much you use). Automotive grade fuel has a mixture in it to help keep fuel pumps and such lubricated, toulene itself does not. Also, don't use aircraft grade fuel, it's manufactured differently so it produces the best burn at higher altitudes and is NOT suitable for automotive use. Yes it will run on it, but at a greater performance loss than what you get from normal higher octane fuels.

Also, why the hell are we talking about increased octane on a ranger forum anyway?

Optikal - http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html
Decent Q&A on the stuff, not a whole lot of technical but it does answer some basic things.

 

I would be careful about using this fuel in your truck, 110 octane (around here anyway) is LOW LEAD aviation fuel, if you are running a fuel that contains lead, that could seriously f*ck up your truck...

 

if vindex wants to wreck his engine, let him. it's a free country.

 

If your running lead on a regular basis you need to check your plugs and O2's often. Also this stuff may plug up your cat.


Don't let this term "low lead" confuse you. Its for from a low concentration.

 

huh... I have a 93 tune and can only get 91 octane here. I loaded the 93 tune and filled up with 91 and put an octane boost in and liked the performance of the truck.

What is going the wreck my engine, as far as I know asking a question
hasn't ever hurt an engine. Thanks for preaching though.

 

You can kiss your O2 sensors and CAT good bye!!! And unless you have a FFV, you can kiss a lot of the fuel system components good bye too!!

 

??? I never said he was going wreck his engine, if he runs octane boost because they don't sell higher octane (93-94) grade fuel in his area, thats ok. I was refering to the gentleman who was running avation fuel in his vehicle. Whats with the attitude, we are all here to help each other, no need to be an ***...

 

I just won a case of 10 1 pint cans of Klotz Octane Booster KL 602 for $42.00 total with shipping.
$4.20 a can....cool. Good for 10 tanks of gas. Supposed to raise the octane 2.5 when used as 1 oz per gallon. There is my 93 octane when filling up with 91 using the 16 oz can.

 

I paid $400 for a tuner and want to use the best tune I can.

 

I may be completely off what I know about motors, or these modern motors may respond differently than I understand. but without changing the compression, either by forced induction or by changing internals to create a high compression motor how do you get a benefit from using above what the motor was made for? In my understanding, a different tune on a computer, no different from changing the cam and timing profile will still not create a higher compression which is the reason for the need for higher octane.

Now I will say again, I know older motors a whole lot better than newer motors.

 

Your thinking is correct!!! The only way to get a substantial power increase is to:

1) Increase displacement
2) Go to forced induction
3) Increase compression, modify cam lift, duration, and/or overlap
(VVT would be a new technology not seen on older engines)

You try to get this across to people, and they still insist on throwing their money away on useless "performance mods", and suffer from "placebo effect"!!

 

Static compression. Timing.

Remember, basically, you increase horsepower by increasing 3 different types of efficiencies: thermodynamic (relates to burn), volumetric (relates air flow in and out), and mechanical (relates to weight and friction). Improving thermodynamic efficiency is one of the 3 major power-gaining methods available for engine builders. Timing.

THE PROBLEMS WITH INCREASING STATIC CR

The problem is that as you increase CR, you increase cylinder pressure (power)and temperature inside the combustion chamber. When air is squeezed hard inside a closed container like a cylinder, the pressure inside goes up the harder you squeeze. As pressure builds up, so does temperature. These 2 (high pressure and temp.) can cause the air -fuel mix to ignite on it's own without a spark from the plug....this is called detonation. So there is a CR level which will cause detonation.

Here is the article. http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...nk&cd=19&gl=us

The beauty of increased timing is more power and better mpg.

 

Yawn....you still dwelling on this one?
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...2&page=2&pp=25
Read #28. "placebo effect" is used there also.
Read the entire thread, that's the reference he's making here.


Are you telling everyone here on this board that a tuner gives a "placebo effect"