syn. power steering fluid helped noise.
#1
syn. power steering fluid helped noise.
I've been getting a start on the 30,000 mile tune up. My power steering has always been noisy , actualy, all fords seem to have loud power steering . This weekend i siphoned off about 3/4 of the fluid and replaced with valvoline synthetic blend with seal conditioner. The bottle said it stops noises but i didn't think it would do anything cuz my P/S pump is in good condition. I wasn't paying so the three extra for the bottle didn't bother me.
the only thing i didn't like is that the fluid was clear and it makes it harder to judge when its full.Maybe next time i'd try the castrol cuz its red .
Its now silent when i turn the wheel except when locked! Even when the car is not rolling i don't hear it .
the only thing i didn't like is that the fluid was clear and it makes it harder to judge when its full.Maybe next time i'd try the castrol cuz its red .
Its now silent when i turn the wheel except when locked! Even when the car is not rolling i don't hear it .
#2
I used Amsoil full synthetic ATF in mine and mine's much quieter. I actually had to flush the system after a rack went bad and metal turned the fluid black.
After flushing it was still noisy so I drained it one more time and put the full synthetic in and it's great now. Good lubes do make a difference.
After flushing it was still noisy so I drained it one more time and put the full synthetic in and it's great now. Good lubes do make a difference.
#3
#4
Pretty much you can do it like this:
Takes 2 people to do it right.
Remove and cap the return line, then run the engine BRIEFLY while draining the line from the cooler to a jug or something. Rotate the steering to make sure the entire rack gets flushed. Add fluid as needed during this time. Shut down.
Then uncap the return line and let everything else drain out.
At that point you've flushed the old fluid out of the rack, and drained the reserve in the pump.
Put it back together and seal it up. Fill the reservoir and don't worry about overfilling it a bit at that point.
Start the truck and rotate the steering. The pump will complain as the air is worked out of the system.
Top off and operate as necessary until it quiets and is at the proper level.
Someone might have a more elegant procedure than that. But that's how I do it.
Takes 2 people to do it right.
Remove and cap the return line, then run the engine BRIEFLY while draining the line from the cooler to a jug or something. Rotate the steering to make sure the entire rack gets flushed. Add fluid as needed during this time. Shut down.
Then uncap the return line and let everything else drain out.
At that point you've flushed the old fluid out of the rack, and drained the reserve in the pump.
Put it back together and seal it up. Fill the reservoir and don't worry about overfilling it a bit at that point.
Start the truck and rotate the steering. The pump will complain as the air is worked out of the system.
Top off and operate as necessary until it quiets and is at the proper level.
Someone might have a more elegant procedure than that. But that's how I do it.
#7
Another way that works, but uses more fluid:
Suck all the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill with synthetic. Start it and rock the steering back and forth to get it flowing throughout the system. You'll see the color change as it mixes with the old. Suck it out again, repeat until fluid stays clear (3 or 4x). You don't have to worry about air getting in it this way.
IIRC, it took just over 1 qt. I'll do it again at the next oil change. I did it last oil change, when I did all the gear fluids. I had the same experience, MUCH quieter Pump with the synthetic ATF.
My rack is leaking. I'm monitoring it. Have not had to top off the fluid since the flush/change, but the level HAS dropped. NOT looking forward to replacing the rack, but it's inevitable.
Off topic, but....I really like the way the rear limited slip is "grabbier" without the friction modifier.
Suck all the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill with synthetic. Start it and rock the steering back and forth to get it flowing throughout the system. You'll see the color change as it mixes with the old. Suck it out again, repeat until fluid stays clear (3 or 4x). You don't have to worry about air getting in it this way.
IIRC, it took just over 1 qt. I'll do it again at the next oil change. I did it last oil change, when I did all the gear fluids. I had the same experience, MUCH quieter Pump with the synthetic ATF.
My rack is leaking. I'm monitoring it. Have not had to top off the fluid since the flush/change, but the level HAS dropped. NOT looking forward to replacing the rack, but it's inevitable.
Off topic, but....I really like the way the rear limited slip is "grabbier" without the friction modifier.
#8
#12
Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
Griggs, what was that rack swap like? I'm considering pulling mine and swapping it, since it has a leak at the steering shaft input.
Getting the rack out and the new one in is the hardest thing as far as maneuvering it. Supposed to take the wheel off I think but I got it in without that.
Because it was an Explorer rack I had to change hoses (it was for an older year) -- but I got a deal on those also.
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