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  #26  
Old 12-06-2010
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I have used the same four 60lb bags of tube sand for the last 3 seasons. I just duct tape the holes and keep it away from getting ripped.
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  #27  
Old 12-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtlove91 View Post
How do you keep the bags of (whatever) directly over the axle?
when i did used sandbags i used to make a frame out of 2x4s to fit around the wheel well.
kinda looked something like this
.....______________
.........| xxxxxxx |
.........| xxxxxxx |
.....-------------------------

x= sandbags
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2010
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^^^^^^^^^ I do the same thing ^^^^^^^^ I used 2x8s tho--lag bolt them together, 4 bags of landscape stone fit perfectly. I first built this for my '00, so I've gotten about 10 years out of it. Bed is still fairly usable.
I use the stone because it comes in plastic bags, and it doesn't matter if it gets wet-I've had the same 4 bags for like 4 years. Combination of 200 lbs of extra weight and 4 Blizzaks and I very rarely 'have' to use 4x4.
MikeR
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  #29  
Old 12-06-2010
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yup i did the wooden frame also
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vista4.0 View Post
when i did used sandbags i used to make a frame out of 2x4s to fit around the wheel well.
kinda looked something like this
.....______________
.........| xxxxxxx |
.........| xxxxxxx |
.....-------------------------

x= sandbags
Thats a great idea!! thanks! I dont live where it snows and i have an open differential 4x2 :/ just use it for easy trails and a lot of mud
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  #31  
Old 12-06-2010
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Originally Posted by mtlove91 View Post
Thats a great idea!! thanks! I dont live where it snows and i have an open differential 4x2 :/ just use it for easy trails and a lot of mud
get a lock right locker. there are like $300 and they work great
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  #32  
Old 12-06-2010
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I just put one of these in the back.
ShurTrax Traction Control System for Compact Pickup
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  #33  
Old 12-06-2010
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I have been using sand tubes from Menards, They fit four wide between the wheel wells. I fitted a small 2 X 4 box ahead of them to keep them from sliding forward in the bed. They're 70 lbs a piece and easy to take out if I need to pick something up that requires me to remove the cover.
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2010
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93 View Post
get a lock right locker. there are like $300 and they work great
selectable?
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  #35  
Old 12-06-2010
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Originally Posted by mtlove91 View Post
selectable?

Google?



GB :)
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  #36  
Old 12-06-2010
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Originally Posted by vista4.0 View Post
extra weight is for little girls.
kinda what i was thinking. extra weight is just going to make it harder to stop. you just have to learn to slow down a little bit and think ahead. the only weight i put in my truck is a shovel and a log chain.
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  #37  
Old 12-06-2010
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thanks Masteratarms93
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  #38  
Old 12-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlered View Post
kinda what i was thinking. extra weight is just going to make it harder to stop. you just have to learn to slow down a little bit and think ahead. the only weight i put in my truck is a shovel and a log chain.
Additional weight is useful when stopping because a lighter truck, especially with wider tires, will tend to float on top of the snow instead of biting into the firmer base beneath. A truck with narrow snow tires and additional weight will be confident in winter conditions.

I am getting a sheet of 1/4 inch steel cut for my box. Will slide it under the drop in box liner and I won't even know it's there except I will make it home instead of getting stuck halfway. lol Just need to remember to take it out when the weather improves or my mpg will be permanently terrible.

Also, I wouldn't pull anything with a chain. You couldn't pay me enough.
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  #39  
Old 12-06-2010
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Chains are proven. Straps are nice for the stretch factor and they work well but chains have always worked fine for me. I actually carry both in my truck. Each has its own place. I've broken both chains and straps and never once did any damage to any vehicle. IMO the key is to have a heavy enough chain to not break it and the additional weight, if it does break, makes it fall to the ground a little quicker. Chains aren't really that dangerous if you have and use a brain. Cables are very dangerous though.

I bet I could pay you enough to pull something with a chain.


Also, your reasoning about skinny tires doesn't always hold true. If there is a base of very slick ice underneath the snow, then skinny tires isn't gonna stop you very fast. Wider tires with more surface area will. I see what you're saying but that part is not always correct in every situation.


GB :)

Last edited by Bird76Mojo; 12-06-2010 at 10:16 PM.
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  #40  
Old 12-06-2010
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I guess im lucky, a local concrete company quikrete sells tube sand in a canvas tube. been using the same ones for years.
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  #41  
Old 12-06-2010
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A guy on our job site was pulling out a truck with a chain and was nearly killed when the pin securing the hook to the chain broke. Went through the rear window, struck him in the side of the face, then went out through the front window. An inch the wrong way and he would be dead.

Also, I will put lbs per square inch against a slightly larger contact patch any day. Having a narrower tire to cut through slop on the roads is far more beneficial than a minute improvement in glare ice performance. On glare ice you are likely screwed either way if you are not driving properly. A wide tire in slush however is dangerous and unpredictable even when driving defensively.
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  #42  
Old 12-06-2010
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mud tires BLOW in winter btw. small surface area compared to a siped skinny tire.
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  #43  
Old 12-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawbladz View Post
A guy on our job site was pulling out a truck with a chain and was nearly killed when the pin securing the hook to the chain broke. Went through the rear window, struck him in the side of the face, then went out through the front window. An inch the wrong way and he would be dead.

Also, I will put lbs per square inch against a slightly larger contact patch any day. Having a narrower tire to cut through slop on the roads is far more beneficial than a minute improvement in glare ice performance. On glare ice you are likely screwed either way if you are not driving properly. A wide tire in slush however is dangerous and unpredictable even when driving defensively.

I agree with most everything you've said there. I have seen chains to damage in the past, but I've always tried to never overstress a chain. I have broken them several times but they've always fell to the ground. Maybe it's the type of chain/s I'm using that matters? If I'm in doubt of it breaking, then I grab a bigger chain. Or I use my jerk strap, although I've snapped at least 3-5 of those.. If you use a small chain then you might as well expect some damage.

As for the wider tire/skinny tire debate, there are pros and cons to each. Depends TOTALLY on conditions. There's ice (only) on top, snow on top of ice, etc etc... I do agree that mud tires suck on ice, but mine do excellent on snow, and I mean excellent. As soon as I hit a solid patch of pure ice, it does get a little hairy though.. lol


GB :)
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  #44  
Old 12-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vista4.0 View Post
when i did used sandbags i used to make a frame out of 2x4s to fit around the wheel well.
kinda looked something like this
.....______________
.........| xxxxxxx |
.........| xxxxxxx |
.....-------------------------

x= sandbags
LOL, nice diagram. This is typically the norm setup when using salt or sand bags.
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  #45  
Old 12-07-2010
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Originally Posted by Rolldogg View Post
LOL, nice diagram. This is typically the norm setup when using salt or sand bags.
i though so lol
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  #46  
Old 12-07-2010
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I've got your alternative right here.

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  #47  
Old 12-07-2010
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Or...







GB :)
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  #48  
Old 12-07-2010
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Originally Posted by mtlove91 View Post
selectable?
no.

look it up
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  #49  
Old 12-07-2010
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I did... Thanks I guess
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  #50  
Old 12-07-2010
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i've been using 100lbs of sand bags and my old tires. been working good so far.
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