Any leaf spring upgrades
 

hi guys, recently figured out my leafs on the driverside of my truck are wore out. I noticed today they are bending upwards a lot with minimal force and making a clunking noise. My truck has rear shack lift with the common 5100 i think it is shackles. Im new to having to replace leafs so my knowledge about them are a bit poor. What would be the best upgrade or best way to approach getting new leaf springs for the rear when i run 33 inch tires on a regular basis. I also got the torsion bars on the front cranked up about 2 full turns, should i look into the aftermarket torsion key things for lifting the front or leave it be ? Thanks

Suspension springs are rated for the weight of the frame and body they support

Your frame in the front went UP when you cranked up the torsion springs weight rating, and it also made the ride harsher in the front, because frame and body weight can't hold the spring in place

Normally when you hit a bump the spring will absorb that bump because of the weight sitting on it, as it should
If you change the weight rating of the spring(cranking torsion bar), then when you hit a bump spring transfers the movement to the frame and body because is not heavy enough to hold the spring down.
Just the physics of it

Pickup trucks have always had an issue with rear springs, say rear frame and bed weigh 1,000lbs, if truck maker wants 1/2 ton rating then springs have to be rated for 2,000lbs, 1,000lbs more than empty
So pickups often have a stiff ride in the rear when empty.

What you can do is get correct empty bed weigh springs and then add an overload spring, so you get good ride empty or with small load, but still have the full 1/2 ton rating when needed
This costs more, so truck makers don't use them.

Good spring weight also does ALOT more, you get the best steering, braking and traction when you have all 4 wheels flat on the ground WITH the weight of the frame and body on them, again just physics
When springs are to stiff, too high of a weight rating, when you hit a bump hard spring pushes up the frame and body which takes the weight OFF the wheels, and since the frame and body weigh more than the axle and tires it can pull them up off the ground entirely, which can "look cool" but there is 0 control until they are back on the ground again, lol
Most have run into this on "washboard" roads with stiff rear springs, back of the truck starts drifting around, wheels are off the ground half the time, lol

So not just about a good ride, that's just a bonus, good spring rating gives you best handling on or off road

Shocks stop springs from continuing to bounce after hitting a bump, they can make ride and handling worse, but can never make it better, it all starts with the springs, good shocks let springs do there job

Thats my rant, lol

I used the SkyJacker, '97 Ranger, 6" Lift Springs, without Blocks, to get 5+ inches of lift for 33" BFG Its !

If that helps any !

First, are the spring you now have installed working ok other than the take off ?
If the existing springs are and doing what you need, the best thing to do is add Traction Bars, they will stop the Spring Wrap.
there are a number of Traction Bars, you will need to search and pick a few, post if you need an opinion.

The SkyJacker Spring are a Spring Pac, for a 6" lift Kit, but I got rid of the OEM Blocks and that made the Spring effectively 5" Lift Spring in a Ranger.
They weren't cheap, can't remember exactly but around $400.00.
So it will end up in WHAT DO YOU WANT to do !?!

Keep posting what you are thinking and where you want to go !

Ltr

OK on the loose springs, that could be your hole problem, tighten both springs at the rear axle just to be sure.
Also, to me both springs should be replaced as a set, if one is worn out the other is just around the corner of wearing out.
Have you checked the Spring Mounting Bracket on the frame, the rear brackets like to rust out on Fords.

Body Lifts over even 2" should not be used, too much stress on the longer bolts, especially if you go off roading. (Just IMHO...)

I do not have a suggestion on shock, I don't follow them at all but I am sure someone on this site will. Last time I did anything with shock I went to ORW and found I had it all wrong and they ended up straightening me out.

The T-Bars bolt to the top of the axle using the U-Bolts that hole the rear axle to the springs. They extend from the housing forward over the spring and attach to the front Spring mounting point or frame.
Here is one type: these are for '98+ Rangers... similar to the ones I run and they work good. I also ran this type on my '88/5.0, but I think SuperLift, worked well then too !
These are from James Duff
https://www.dufftuff.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5306&CartID=1

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...a4c42dab7e.jpg

The larger bracket goes on top of the axle and the smaller one goes at the front spring mount.
The bar connects the two brackets and hols things tight.
There are bushing mounting points for the bar ends and these bushings allow the rear axle to move without binding the bar.

These are the type I used... $$$ !


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...f257a5d78b.jpg
A little more rugged than the Duff Pieces.
Not sure if these are still available.

One more thing, it may not be the rear springs causing the tilt in the rear of the vehicle, I know... WTF do you mean.
When I first got my first Ranger, I took it to a Spring Company, and questioned the tilt and asked if they can do anything, $75 later, it looked good but was told they had reworked the opposite front spring to get the stance corrected.
What I am saying is, don't just go hap-hazard into the suspension until know what is happening with it; have someone that knows suspension look at it first !

Ltr

If you are good at Fabrication, yes you could make some, make sure to put flexible joints on both ends... Look at the second set I posted, you might consider those to make instead.

One more thing, If you make your own make sure to have some sort of slip joint in one end.

If you look at the second set, the frame mount end, you will see there is a slot not just a hole.
Duff's doesn't have one and the price is right.

Good Luck, post what you are doing.

Ltr
Good Luck in college.

Take note your frame, and rear tires can only support so much weight.

+1 on the traction bars as Scrambler was suggesting for the same reasons with new springs, and the clunking noise...was it rear shackle mount?

I've never had clunking (knock on wood) out of my leaves in any truck I've owned...even with 30-40 yr old leaves on an old F150.

When it comes to springs and shocks - never replace just one side. Always do both.