Hi all

Searched for an hour and did not find an answer so let me try this.......

Been working on my V8 and total resto 1985 Ranger. Of course I started on the frame and as I wait for the coatings and other stuff to cure I started on the body mounts. Well we will not go there too much as I found it will cost me $250 to replace the hardware only! Energy Suspension was real nice telling me you just make a puller and apart they come. Well I made the puller they have on the instruction sheet but IT DONT WORK!!!
So I decided to cut a mount apart and found why it dont work.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...2/DSCF1382.jpg


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...2/DSCF1385.jpg


You can see the two parts are flared so they will not seperate. This is very upsetting as the old rubber mounts were still OK I just wanted to change them as I was changing all rubber. Had I known I would have to spend $250 just for hardware (plates) the top and bottom that sandwhich the rubber, I would have left the old ones.

Since I Have to change these I have more questions. My actual mounts are in tough shape.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...2/DSCF1379.jpg


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...DSCF1358-1.jpg


I was wondering if welding in a semi thin round plate with the proper size hole on the top of the mount would be ok. Would not raise the body much and would fix the rot.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

your pics dont work copy the IMG code and paste it in

 

try them again. This always happens with PB I think they store the pics on a different server after they have been uploaded after a few minutes. Try the pics now they work for me

 

I don't know why that wouldn't work. Thats what I'd probably do considering the price of the new mounts. It looks like oyu have a good paint job on that frame now, looks nice.

 

That part of the frame has not been painted yet. I sandblasted this thing 6 years ago and sprayed it with Walmart bombs. It sat outside the whole time.



this is what the finished part looks like today. I have not completed the front. I have the suspension ripped off and will paint the front section when I have it all ready to go back on.

The sections for just the rubber cost $250 for all 6 mounts. If I were to replace the actual mounts (what you see in the other pic) would add another $50 each.

I wanted to see if anyone had any opinions on my fix. I think it would work too.

Except I am not too sure how I would get them centered. The holes are uneven now due to the rot and without the cab on I may get them welded out of place. Just thought about that. Hmmmmmnnnn........

 

IMHO… you have taken the time to clean up this frame and a good job from the pics, why, why… not buy new frame mounts and body bushing/hdw ?
Yes it will be pricey but once completed you will have a really nice setup.
You will have to cut rivets to remove the old mounts but you will get a chance to take a look behind the Frame Mounts and see if there is any damage there or at least clean up and paint the frame.
The new frame mounts can be bolted on with some good quality grade 5 hdw and you will be all set for a long future with this truck, that is if there is one in your plans.

Also, since the Body Mounts look like this what do the Rear Spring Mounts look like ?
Just another project.

Back on the actual subject, if the metal has reasonable thickness in the areas that didn’t rust through then you should e able to repair the existing mounts but don’t try to repair the Spring Mounts if they are are rotted too.

 

Put a torch on it till the bolt is almost red, remove like butter.

 

x2

 

Yep I agree with you. The only problem is that the only mounts that are available are the 2 that are not rotted. My back 2 mounts are in good shape. The front cab and the rad mounts are rotted out. I searched for weeks and the only ones I could find are the rear.

Either I find mounts to replace them with or I have to fix them.

I am real confused. I did months of research before I started this job to get an idea of what I would be looking at as far as what may need replaced. I went on a slew of forums well any online source I could find that could offer some insight. All that responded said no real biggie. So after many moons of research I started this journey. Well I totally underestimated the needed "must do" work. I am sooooo over my intended budget I am sick. I am not a stranger to this type of work as I have done it before.

It seems according to those who respond that I am one of a few and that no one else runs into this kind of issues.

Energy Suspension told me these plates that sandwich the rubber mounts do not exist yet here they are I have pics for all to see. I am told that everyone else just pulls them apart with no sweat.

Every thing I try to find or need info on is a dead end.

Yes the cost is becoming overwhelming as I will have as much or more than a new truck soon.

Getting back on topic, would anyone know where I could get the needed front mounts and also how about shims?

I was asked several times did I keep the shims. Heck I did not see any. The only thing other than the hardware was rust and rot. So if there were shims they were nothing more than a pile of rust.

ES says I need to keep my old shims and reuse them. Well I would have to turn the pile of iron powder back into metal to reuse them.

here I go again, now I need to find them and I do not know what I need.

To let you know about the springs if your talking about rear they are already completed with no rot. If your talking about the coil mounts, they are all set too. There was a little rust where the tower meets the frame but blasting the frame removed 98% of the rust so that was ok. The only rot on the frame is these body mounts. The cab was totally rotted forcing me to get a 88 donor for metal.

I had already thought of getting the mounts from that but they are worse than these!

Am I the only one with these worse case trucks or maybe the only one trying to do this job.

Just figured why the rear mounts are the ones out there, its because they are squared up. The guy that makes them uses steel plates and uses a brake to bend them and drills the holes in the right locations. The front mounts are rounded and could not be reproduced easily. I am thinking that is why the rears are available.

 

I know exactly what you are talking about, i have been rebuilding or building vehicles for years and find the same problem all the time.
My latest buildup a brand new ground up build of a 1982 Jeep Scrambler is getting to be a little too much and I am thinking of piecing it out but I hate not to finish it.

Good Luck with the build and if I find some of the ccab mounts I will let you know.

 

Thanks at least I do not feel alone.....does not make it any easier though!!!! :)

 

plz use grade 8 hardware not grade 5 these hold the body to the frame over kill is better

 

Grade 8 bolt on body mounts are OK and over-kill as you stated but not necessary.
I believe there are three or four bolts for each body mount, grade 5 will work perfeectly.
Also, we are talking shearing strength on these mounts so the OD of the bolt is the most important thing, re-drill the holes one or two sizes larger if strength is in question.

I know you said that you are not going to replace the mounts unless you can find new ones but if you do you may want to look at "Button Head Bolts” they look better but finding the higher grades in that style is a b!tcH !