Any way to tighten the parking brake? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 05-15-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
so is his, but his has a torsion l/s.
ya but mines from an explorer..
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  #27  
Old 05-16-2007
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I tried the reversing and braking hard in the parking lot during lunch yesterday... the people there probably thought I was and idiot, couldn't drive, or both.

Anyhow, when I got home and parked it on the hill it didn't work. I guess the next step would be to pull off the drum and work on the adjuster. Can somebody give me some information how to tighten it?
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  #28  
Old 05-16-2007
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My advice for you (novice at rear shoes work, obviously) is to take a digi-photo of both sides after you remove the drums (good luck with that too - it can be difficult - use a big hammer after you spray the center hole of the drum with PB Blaster.).

You should also have a manual to go by, but without a book, the photos will save you. Each side is mirror image and the parts are NOT interchangeable, so be very careful not to mix them up.

Before you disassemble ANYTHING, you can try taking off the rubber plug from the bottom of the back of the backing plate. Insert a screwdriver in that hole and turn the starwheel. That will tighten your shoes. It won't let you loosen unless you really pry the bar out of the way. It's much harder to loosen this way, tightening is with the bar's spring pressure and it should make clicks as it engages the teeth. This method won't let you see how much brake lining is remaining.

You can get the star adjuster out without MAJOR disassembly, but it will take some repositioning/spreading of the shoes after removing their retaining pins caps (with springs, 1/4 turn).

Anyway, once you access it, you will see a bar that engages the teeth of the star wheel. It only allows the star to TIGHTEN the brakes by applying spring pressure. If you pry that bar away from the teeth, you should be able to turn the starwheel either direction. IF it's frozen, that's your problem.

Be sure to check how much brake lining is left.
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  #29  
Old 05-16-2007
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Great job Earl! A few notes to add to the procedure:

Before you remove the drums, make sure you release the parking brake. This will relieve pressure on the drums to allow them to slide right off. IF you can't get them, a RBFH (hammer) or screwdriver will be your friend.

Also, once the drums are removed, either vacuum out the brake dust, or "shot-put" the drums into your neighbor's yard to leave pretty circular black marks on the grass.

Since you have the drums off, spray the heck out of it with brake parts cleaner. Make sure you have a catch-pan or other method to catch the drips, because brake dust will stain the pavement when mixed with cleaner.

Go ahead and replace the shoes, if you're up to it. DOCUMENT EACH SPRING either photographically like Earl said, or by drawing a picture before you disassemble it.
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  #30  
Old 05-16-2007
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Thanks guys very much for the help. I'm pretty good at getting this stuff down, so hopefully there won't be any problems. I just can't really start tearing into it for a while which sucks, but at least I can park it in gear.
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  #31  
Old 05-16-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winks
I just can't really start tearing into it for a while which sucks, but at least I can park it in gear.
Try the screwdriver trick. It takes seconds to find out if your starwheel adjusters are seized. If that were the case, you could have parts ready when you DO have time to tear into it. If you can tighten the starwheel, do so while rotating the drum by hand. Don't tighten it anymore once you hear the first sign of contact between shoe and drum.
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  #32  
Old 05-16-2007
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Good idea. Once I have a free hour to myself, I will take care of that.
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  #33  
Old 05-16-2007
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i tried the reverse and braking method today and the only thing that was accomplished was leaving a sh*t load of skid marks in the road at my frat house... oops
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