Arc off starter and fuel line
#1
Arc off starter and fuel line
I went to tighten my starter power cable, and my wrench sparked off the starter and the coiled up gas line. This caused a pin ***** leak in a bad spot where I can’t use my metal cutter to cut all the way around since it’s coiled up close.
Im an idiot. I just fixed this thing finally and weeks later I make this avoidable mistake.
Can i cut it and straight pipe it? I don’t wanna find one at the yard or have one made and even so I’d still have to rubber hose splice it in either way.
Ive heard of JB Weld working, certain types said to work for gas as well? Not confident, and I think not only the leaking area may be bad. Like maybe it’s weak around it now but hasn’t busted out.
Im very concerned and will do better pics when I can. Any help is appreciated. I’ve spliced my tranny cooling lines after half a day on a stuck fitting. They still look great 3 years later. Hoping someone says it’ll work here too.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Looks like you have a 1997 or earlier Ranger so 2 fuel lines
One will have 30psi pressure, from fuel pump, the other 0psi, its the Return line from Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
I assume the 30psi line got the hole, since I doubt you would have notice Return line hole until MPG went down a bit, and you smelled gas now and then
Only permanent fix is to replace it
JB Weld won't hold on its own, the hose/line will expand and contract as flowing fuel cools it and then it warms back up when engine is off from outside temp, or reverse of that depending on outside temp, lol, but suffice it to say it won't hold
If you can get a small hose clamp around the spot that may add some stability for the temp fix, but it is a temp fix
As far as cutting it out, thats OK, I don't recall seeing anything like that on my Rangers, but hard to get any clamps to hold long term on smooth metal lines
One will have 30psi pressure, from fuel pump, the other 0psi, its the Return line from Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
I assume the 30psi line got the hole, since I doubt you would have notice Return line hole until MPG went down a bit, and you smelled gas now and then
Only permanent fix is to replace it
JB Weld won't hold on its own, the hose/line will expand and contract as flowing fuel cools it and then it warms back up when engine is off from outside temp, or reverse of that depending on outside temp, lol, but suffice it to say it won't hold
If you can get a small hose clamp around the spot that may add some stability for the temp fix, but it is a temp fix
As far as cutting it out, thats OK, I don't recall seeing anything like that on my Rangers, but hard to get any clamps to hold long term on smooth metal lines
Last edited by RonD; 01-19-2019 at 03:10 PM.
#4
Thanks Ron.
yea it’s my 1992 3.0 V6 auto.
youve helped me fix it twice now. The battery cables and new battery fixed it 2 weeks ago. Now I fucked it up.
well since I have to cut it anyway, I’m gonna play with some rubber hose scraps, clamps, and JB.
McLean, apply JB, quickly get rubber hose over it.
rubber hose piece will be cut small, then down the middle to open it all up. It’s basicallt going to hug the pipe area where I seal it with JB. Then clamp down right on the area. Then maybe one on each side if I cut enough. The leak hole is on the bend unfortunately, but I think they hose should be able to take form if done correctly. However I think because of the bend, this will be a good TEMP fix. I don’t plan on keeping this forever, so if this works a little then cool. I can easily cut it later when I’m not getting rained on.
tranny cooling lines I cut and spliced rubber hoses on with clamps still works good nearly 3 years later.
yea it’s my 1992 3.0 V6 auto.
youve helped me fix it twice now. The battery cables and new battery fixed it 2 weeks ago. Now I fucked it up.
well since I have to cut it anyway, I’m gonna play with some rubber hose scraps, clamps, and JB.
McLean, apply JB, quickly get rubber hose over it.
rubber hose piece will be cut small, then down the middle to open it all up. It’s basicallt going to hug the pipe area where I seal it with JB. Then clamp down right on the area. Then maybe one on each side if I cut enough. The leak hole is on the bend unfortunately, but I think they hose should be able to take form if done correctly. However I think because of the bend, this will be a good TEMP fix. I don’t plan on keeping this forever, so if this works a little then cool. I can easily cut it later when I’m not getting rained on.
tranny cooling lines I cut and spliced rubber hoses on with clamps still works good nearly 3 years later.
Last edited by Marino; 01-19-2019 at 09:07 PM.
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