Redneckstone posted a thread similar about neons in the bed. My application is actually gonna be a flood light mounted to the underside of my toolbox, for the purpose of lighting the entire (for camping and such)..

however i would like to wire this separately and put a sort of switch of the underside of the toolbox. i want to run a power wire, to the battery (i dont know how really, i suck with wiring and need proper instructions on how to do this properly), then run a ground (i can do that, just screw it into bed right?), then have the switch under the toolbox next to the light. i was just gonna pick up a cheap flood light from walmart.

i have read the 12 volt outlet how-to and plan on doing this as well, however i dont wanna use that as the source for this light

 

and your question is what

make sure you have a fuse within 6" of the battery on the power wire......

 

I'd just buy a good flashlight.

 

how do i wire the power wire... just from the light to the battery?? makin sure i have a fuse within that 6"

 

You could go with high intensity LEDs pointed down spaced at 12" intervals under both sides of the bed rails and connect the power feed to the interior lights or a separate power feed switch. You should be able to run a power feed from the left front corner of the bed down to the frame and either back up into the cab or up to the engine compartment.

 

I would definetly use some sort of relay between the battery and the switch. I had a switch melt on me when I did not use one when I hooked up my fog lights.

 

EXACTLY..I would wire in a relay under the hood or dash (to keep it out of the weather), and install a weather-proof switch on your tool box, if that's where you wanted the switch. I know a guy that did something similar to what you want, but he used 2 LED "strip lights" under the bed rails, and put a weather-proof push button switch under his license plate light. It looks slick, and works REALLY well.

Regardless of how you do it, you DEFINETLY want a relay in there, and the main power feed fused close to the battery.

 

a relay isn't needed IF the switch is rated for the current.....you can get 15A, 20A, and 30A switches.....for a single light, a 15A switch would be fine without a relay....

 

Probably so, but I always like a little overkill. Better safe than sorry.

 

I agree since the switch that I melted was rated for the current.

 

The fact that he is uncomfortable with it, I'd go to the parts store and get a wiring kit for an offroad light or foglite. It will come with fuse, switch, relay, and instructions.

 

 

I did this last summer, i bought a pair of foglights from walmart that came with a fuse and switch for $20. All i had to do was buy some extra wire. Drilled a small hole in the back of the tool box, and ran the positive to the battery (moving the fuse up to the battery area) and the negative down to the frame.

VERY IMPORTANT!!! PUT THE FUSE NEAR THE BATTERY! yes, i am speaking from experience on that one! I will see if i have a pic in a little while.