Bit the projector bullet... AGAIN!!!
#26
I just ordered the morimoto d2s projectors.. Can't wait to do something very silimar.
Dumb question how are you powering the HID for testing purposes? Do you you have a variable PSU?
I ask because I see alot of the same pictures of people testing out HIDS and projectors to get the nice color shift/cut off but it would truely be a pain in the *** to keep hooking them up to the car and vise versa...etc.
Thanks,
-Nige
Dumb question how are you powering the HID for testing purposes? Do you you have a variable PSU?
I ask because I see alot of the same pictures of people testing out HIDS and projectors to get the nice color shift/cut off but it would truely be a pain in the *** to keep hooking them up to the car and vise versa...etc.
Thanks,
-Nige
#27
#28
Any tips our anything like that.
I've read that its good to paint the cut off shield flat black and to smooth out the rough parts by sanding...also to trim the plastic housing a little to get rid of the dead spot in the upper party if the cut off and highs.
Also heard much less cutting involved compared to h1.
Have any pics of how you sealed the back of the projector.. I'm a little worried if the elements from the d2s plug when it attaches to the bulb.
How was alignment when setting these up?
Did you make or install a fore ground limiter shield? I've read nothing of the sort coming on the mini d2s's...but does come in the mini h1's.
Thanks
Nigel
I've read that its good to paint the cut off shield flat black and to smooth out the rough parts by sanding...also to trim the plastic housing a little to get rid of the dead spot in the upper party if the cut off and highs.
Also heard much less cutting involved compared to h1.
Have any pics of how you sealed the back of the projector.. I'm a little worried if the elements from the d2s plug when it attaches to the bulb.
How was alignment when setting these up?
Did you make or install a fore ground limiter shield? I've read nothing of the sort coming on the mini d2s's...but does come in the mini h1's.
Thanks
Nigel
#29
Any tips our anything like that.
I've read that its good to paint the cut off shield flat black and to smooth out the rough parts by sanding...also to trim the plastic housing a little to get rid of the dead spot in the upper party if the cut off and highs.
Also heard much less cutting involved compared to h1.
Have any pics of how you sealed the back of the projector.. I'm a little worried if the elements from the d2s plug when it attaches to the bulb.
How was alignment when setting these up?
Did you make or install a fore ground limiter shield? I've read nothing of the sort coming on the mini d2s's...but does come in the mini h1's.
Thanks
Nigel
I've read that its good to paint the cut off shield flat black and to smooth out the rough parts by sanding...also to trim the plastic housing a little to get rid of the dead spot in the upper party if the cut off and highs.
Also heard much less cutting involved compared to h1.
Have any pics of how you sealed the back of the projector.. I'm a little worried if the elements from the d2s plug when it attaches to the bulb.
How was alignment when setting these up?
Did you make or install a fore ground limiter shield? I've read nothing of the sort coming on the mini d2s's...but does come in the mini h1's.
Thanks
Nigel
This is the thread I have from back when I did the D2S retro. I did not modify the projector at all and it worked fine for me. A foreground limiter might be kinda nice but not 100% needed unless you want one. Definitely use the OEM bulbs ie. Phillips or Osram(Sylvanya) they are much better quality and are brighter.
As far as painting the shields that is purely aesthetic and doesnt help output any.
And the bulb connector is fine poking out of the housing. Mine has been exposed for almost a year and still look brand new
#30
I've attached a photo.. which one did you get.. there are three choices? Did you just get the economy on each one?
I don't care if it's missing bulbs cause obviously I'm doing the retro..lol
Thanks again,
-Nigel
#32
And they look just like OEM and fitment and are new..etc.
I only ask and don't want to beat a dead horse because I'd rather spend the money on the headlamps that fit like OEM than having to f with them because they are just way off..etc.lol
I had a bad experience before with headlights that weren't OEM so I want to avoid that especially with starting a retrofit... I'd use my stock headlamps but they are yellow inside and the lense are beat... so rather than trying to sand the outsides which I have done and still dont' look that great.. or paint the insides black I want to keep it OEM looking as much as possible.. probably paint the cut off shield for a little highlight..nothing crazy..lol
One last question. Is there anything that has to be done to the headlight housing as far as the frame goes on the truck.. IE: Does the projector once mounted hit the metal on the truck or make it very hard to take them out or put them in... Does the metal need to be cut so that the projectors don't hit the truck frame, I looked back there and it doesn't look like much room..etc.
Thanks again,
-Nigel
#34
#35
I got some more done today.
15ft away from the fence. the spread is 22ft wide
Here is a test run on the truck. The driver side is the mini d2s
I aimed it down a little so you can see the difference. Both are 35w the d2s has OEM Philips 85122+ and the fx-r has some fake 85122WX in 6000k but looks more 5000k than 6000k
you can somewhat tell the temp difference in this picture
15ft away from the fence. the spread is 22ft wide
Here is a test run on the truck. The driver side is the mini d2s
I aimed it down a little so you can see the difference. Both are 35w the d2s has OEM Philips 85122+ and the fx-r has some fake 85122WX in 6000k but looks more 5000k than 6000k
you can somewhat tell the temp difference in this picture
#38
Looks awesome man!!! Making me want to do mine this weekend...! As long as I get all the parts I am going to.
I'm going to do something a little different (i don't want to thread dump on your's, I will make a new thread once I start)
But here's what I'm planning on doing:
Behind the gatling gun shrouds so that instead of the picture below of white light it will be amber to match the parking and the sidemarker.
This thread is killing me I want to be home so I can start! I got my headlights in the mail and they should be delievered along with most other stuff !!! arg!
W0rk sucks.
-Nigel
I'm going to do something a little different (i don't want to thread dump on your's, I will make a new thread once I start)
But here's what I'm planning on doing:
Behind the gatling gun shrouds so that instead of the picture below of white light it will be amber to match the parking and the sidemarker.
This thread is killing me I want to be home so I can start! I got my headlights in the mail and they should be delievered along with most other stuff !!! arg!
W0rk sucks.
-Nigel
#39
#40
I feel you on the halo's, I don't like how they are on the tops of everyone's headlights now, they really only look good on bwm's... so I figured this would be a subtle move and it "should" (I HOPE) look pretty neat when the parking lights are on, and you probably won't even see it once the projector has light shining through it when the headlights are on...
Do you have pictures of the back of the headlights?
Also how are you making sure everything is lined up perfectly via alignment so that the beams are straight and not like one is off by a couple degrees.
Thanks,
-Nigel
#41
so the mini d2s is the top beam and the fx-r is the bottom....
That makes me sad now because the mini d2s is not bright at all compared to the fx-r...
Did you just change the actual lens or did you change the whole projector as well to the fx-r?
-Nigel
#42
The D2S is a different style projector. It's focus is not as precise as the FXR but it floods light in the foreground and it fills the area under the cutoff more evenly. The FXR is brighter straight on, but the foreground performance is poor. I prefer more foreground lighting and a more even fill under the cutoff. I tried the FXR's and I did not like them.
#43
Yeah the fx-r is a totally different projector. Don't get me wrong the Md2s is a good projector that will kill a halogen any day. I was happy with my d2s setup I for one am addicted to this lighting thing now. Haha. And I got a hell of a deal on these fx-r projectors.
I for one am not a huge fan of alot of foreground I would rather be able to see further and with a lot of foreground you will focus on the bright spot right and front and it won't look like it is as bright in the distance. Btw that's what fog lights are for anyway is to fill in that foreground for low speeds. Also this is the reason factory fog lights cut off when you turn on the highbeams.
Don't worry you chose a good projector.
I for one am not a huge fan of alot of foreground I would rather be able to see further and with a lot of foreground you will focus on the bright spot right and front and it won't look like it is as bright in the distance. Btw that's what fog lights are for anyway is to fill in that foreground for low speeds. Also this is the reason factory fog lights cut off when you turn on the highbeams.
Don't worry you chose a good projector.
#44
#46
I put a stock light on a level surface and marked as best I could where the stock blob of light is. Then I put the housing and projector in its spot an lined it up as level as I could and used some jb stick to hold in in place. Then I marked that cutoff with more detail on the wall. I then lined the next projector up as close as possible to those marks. That way they have both the same rotation.