Block Question
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 18,788
Likes: 4
From: Knoxville, TN
I am looking for some blocks for the rear of my truck, but I am seeing a few different kinds of blocks: extruded aluminum, cast aluminum, and cast iron.
My question is which is best and worst? I remember reading about this a long time ago, but couldn't remember.
Thanks,
~Mike
My question is which is best and worst? I remember reading about this a long time ago, but couldn't remember.
Thanks,
~Mike
Aluminum is known to fail. There was a thread on here or maybe rps that had the pictures...
I have cast iron 3" blocks...they are the ones from autozone for a lift/lower kit, just generic blocks. I don't know if they make a "non custom" (meaning it would have to be made) 4" and above block.
I have cast iron 3" blocks...they are the ones from autozone for a lift/lower kit, just generic blocks. I don't know if they make a "non custom" (meaning it would have to be made) 4" and above block.
I don't believe they do. Im pretty sure they are just a plain ole rectangle. I looked at them one time but it was a while ago.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 18,788
Likes: 4
From: Knoxville, TN
Good point. I pulled out my flare last time I flexed.
Yea for the block to hit the bump stop, even on kevooo's superlifted (used to be) truck it would hit the flare way before the block...
Is this to go with your 3" spindle lift? I know you have an AAL and shackles. How much more lift are you looking for in the rear? If it's just another inch or so the block is a great choice. Cast iron for durability.
But also look into Skyjacker lift springs. You might be able to use something with maybe 6" lift over factory and lose the factory block and AAL. Just a thought.
But also look into Skyjacker lift springs. You might be able to use something with maybe 6" lift over factory and lose the factory block and AAL. Just a thought.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 18,788
Likes: 4
From: Knoxville, TN
Ya, it's to go with the spindles. I don't mind the blocks, right now anyway. I need three more inches in the rear. I am going to get 1 1/4 from the blocks and I should get the rest out of a RCD leaf i have on the way... I hope.
Yup. Have you ever felt one? I'm willing to be they're 10lbs a piece.
So Mike, is the AAL you have now the short and you're getting a long one too? Or something different? Also what are you planning for the center bolt that holds the leaf springs together?
So Mike, is the AAL you have now the short and you're getting a long one too? Or something different? Also what are you planning for the center bolt that holds the leaf springs together?
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 18,788
Likes: 4
From: Knoxville, TN
I know it sounds like I have a lot of stuff back there to lift the rear, but I have a lot of weight back there too w/ the cap, full size spare, and a loaded tool box.
I have 4" angled blocks on the back of my truck, and Fabcrap AAL's. I believe they are made by Fabcrap also and for a fullsize Chevy.
Make sure if you get angled blocks to put them in the right way. The dumbass that owned my truck before me put one facing backwards and one facing forwards. It made my axle all angled retarded and I had to pull the backwards one out and flip it before I got my alignment. How stupid could someone be, they even have "front" cast into them pretty big on one side not to mention the obvious fact they are angled. People amaze me...
Make sure if you get angled blocks to put them in the right way. The dumbass that owned my truck before me put one facing backwards and one facing forwards. It made my axle all angled retarded and I had to pull the backwards one out and flip it before I got my alignment. How stupid could someone be, they even have "front" cast into them pretty big on one side not to mention the obvious fact they are angled. People amaze me...
I have 4" angled blocks on the back of my truck, and Fabcrap AAL's. I believe they are made by Fabcrap also and for a fullsize Chevy.
Make sure if you get angled blocks to put them in the right way. The dumbass that owned my truck before me put one facing backwards and one facing forwards. It made my axle all angled retarded and I had to pull the backwards one out and flip it before I got my alignment. How stupid could someone be, they even have "front" cast into them pretty big on one side not to mention the obvious fact they are angled. People amaze me...
Make sure if you get angled blocks to put them in the right way. The dumbass that owned my truck before me put one facing backwards and one facing forwards. It made my axle all angled retarded and I had to pull the backwards one out and flip it before I got my alignment. How stupid could someone be, they even have "front" cast into them pretty big on one side not to mention the obvious fact they are angled. People amaze me...
Anyway, I can't stand those blocks. I had a pair. The angle is way too much for my driveline, I guess the shackle gives me enough pinion angle but I had way too corrected of an angle with the slanted block.
Mike, I understand what you are saying, I could use another 2" in the rear...I have a short aal, shackle, and 3" block. I considered stacking blocks but I'm going the skyjacker route...unless I go higher. Everything is so up in the air right now
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 18,788
Likes: 4
From: Knoxville, TN
I'd rather have rake like stock or keep it level, but I do not want the rear sitting lower than the front. Ricky, I bet if you took the cap off you'd be sitting pretty close to level.
It is a little higher in the rear, like a half inch...still I want another inch in the rear. It sucks when I tow because I sit all prerunner style
I had a pair of the aluminum ones to fail, I believe Shane (Fx4wannabe01) also had a pair of the same kind fail.
I believe shane posted pics, thats what I was looking for. You're not the only two I've heard of...I know a lot of people with lifted trucks/jeeps, aluminum usually fails I'd say 50% of the time...so your taking a 50/50 chance when driving...




