Bullet proofing a 98-1/2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 08-30-2006
RL98's Avatar
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Bullet proofing a 98-1/2

Howdy, Thought I'd join and see if I can get some expert opinions on how to preserve my Ranger.

It is a nearly stock 98-1/2 Supercab 4X4, 4.0 and automatic with a stepside bed and hardshell cover. I have nerf bars. That is it.

I am moving to a remote area and want to take the truck out to the desert to serve as a ranch truck/run-a-bout. This place is 24 miles from nearest town, so I need 100% reliability from it-and that is what I have enjoyed on this truck so far and have 58K Miles on it. (O2 sensor and brakes)

Just recently, the right wheel bearing started making some noise. So I know I have to change out the hub.

Questions Please:

1) Should I also change the other hub too? Or wait until it goes noisey? Is this hub thing a common ailment?

2) What should I consider doing in preventative maintanence to assure that the truck will not leave me stranded? Thinking Timing Chain? All new belts, battery etc?

All answers appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich
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Old 08-30-2006
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1. yes go ahead and change both sides while you are at it.....

2. keep up with oil changes, change the antifreeze, have the battery checked, change the belt, have the tranny flushed if it is an automatic tranny, rotate the tires, make sure the tires are at the proper PSI, make sure the tires are in great condition, check your rear diff fluid (and front if you have 4x4), check your a/c for proper freon level, make sure that your brake pads are in good condition, put in a new air filter, a new fuel filter


anything else that the owners manual has that i haven't covered....pretty much regular maintance!
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Old 08-30-2006
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Get AVM manual hubs for it. The ford vaccuum hubs are anything but reliable.


The timing chain will last until the engine needs a rebuild. A guy on rps had one fail at 300k.


FYI, the front bearings have nothing to do with the locking hubs.

Cheapest ive found bearings for is 185.

To check them lift the front off the ground. And see if you can move the tire up and down by hand. If theres alot of play then the bearings are bad.


http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...98&catalogid=2

vs autozone at 375

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...kes&PageSync=5

Last edited by Blhde; 08-30-2006 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 08-30-2006
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Thanks for the inputs so far:
Question: Convesion to AVM Manual 470 Hubs?

Do I need two Sets? Also-what sort of job is it to swith from Stock e-Hubs to manuals?

It would cost me a grand to have the dealer change out the stock hubs..

Thanks
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  #5  
Old 08-30-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde
FYI, the front bearings have nothing to do with the locking hubs.

Cheapest ive found bearings for is 185.

To check them lift the front off the ground. And see if you can move the tire up and down by hand. If theres alot of play then the bearings are bad.
Thanks. I am no mechanic. I have a good independant Mechanic and he has taken care of this truck for years. Howver, he says the bearings are bad on the right front ( he checked after I noticed binding-like noise) and said it requires a special tool to do the job that he does not have it. The dealer quoted me $490.00 for wheel bearing replacement.

So I guess I am at a loss for knowing exactly what to do to get it bulletproof and fixed at least expense..

Rich
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  #6  
Old 08-30-2006
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FYI.....you will never bullet proof a vehicle....something can and will always go wrong! however the more scheduled maintence you do the longer the vehicle will last
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2006
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I have done the bearing swap in the driveway on a jack stand.

The cheaper part is what I used, however it is a PITA. Theres a metal/plastic C-clip that needs to be removed. By removing it you destory it. So replace it, but with out the specail tool its hard but doable. I ended up using a large socket to pusht the clip.


If your going to pay to replace it (assuming you do the test i suggested) then the dealer is your best option.


IMHO, no single vehicle will provide you with a 24/7 uptime.
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  #8  
Old 09-13-2006
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Update:

my indepentant mech said it was a wheel bearing and that he didn't have the tools to fix it.

So I took it in to the dealer for a bearing fix. I get an estimate around $900.00 to change-out axle seals, lube the slip yoke and to replace the front disk calipers etc. Bearings are fine they say. Whoa!

I asked too many questions of the service writer-so he let me actually speak with the ford tech.

The tech told me that the axle seals needed replacement (making the slow speed noise I complained about), the bearing was fine and the calipers were out of true by 0.070"-which made a high speed noise. Also said the yoke needed disassembled and a special lube-to stop noise when I stopped.

Back to service wrirter: I instructed them to just do seals and yoke and that I would take brake issue to my indy as he had done them a while back.

Get a call to come pick it up and to bring $460.00

I get down there and the bill is only $360.00.?? I pay it and as I am waiting for truck to come out-I look over bill. No where does it say seals were replaced. Odd. The bill is confusing.

So after I get into billing details with writer(different than one who wrote the work), he calls original writer at home and says tech said didn't actually need to have seals replaced afterall-just lube/oil/filter/fluids and yoke lube. Invoice was wrong! I got a credit back of $200.00 plus!

So I got a final revised bill of $130.00 out the door. The clunking I had always thought was tranny went away. Must have been the yoke being dry after 8 years of life.Cool. Glad that is fixed.

So now I'm looking into a kit for brake upgrade. Anyone have a good upgarde kit to recommend? I do see the Cryo Powerslot kit-yet I wonder if slotted calipers make sense for a 4X4. No mudding- but I ford an occasional stream and run trails in the dessert. Might have rain and ice time to time. Slotted OK?

Rich
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2006
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id say for a ranch/work truck, slotted rotors would be completely pointless. just get a decent set of pads and some stock rotors.
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catfish hunter
id say for a ranch/work truck, slotted rotors would be completely pointless. just get a decent set of pads and some stock rotors.
I like that suggestion. Thanks
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  #11  
Old 09-14-2006
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When I clicked on the topic I thought you were actually bulletproof your Ranger! lol

But I would just go with what the other people stated. Somthing can always go wrong so if your very far I would stock some certain parts just incase
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2006
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I think the best advice is regular maintanance, I try and look over all my vehicles every saturday morning, just the regular stuff, takes maybe 10 minutes. Buy yourself the repair manual for the truck so you can get to know it better and if you think something is wrong dont wait, repairs never get cheaper with time!

Sounds like you got a good deal and some honest techs!
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