A/C Blower acting up.
For some reason the first 3 switches on the fan speed for the A/C stopped working today, the last one works like it should but the other ones quit. It was all working fine then they just stopped working. I Checked the fuses for the blower motor, and the relay, they didn't look bad at all. anybody got any ideas on how to fix this? could there be some loose wires some where.
Thanks, Clay |
Bad blower motor resistor.
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The resistors burn out for low and medium speeds. High speed is direct power so nothing to burn out. You can buy a new fan speed resistor pack at the dealer and install it yourself.
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Agree :-)
Blower motor resistor in deed. Always seem to kick out the low speeds only. But i gave seen it a lot. Almost positive it is the resistor |
Where is it located on the truck? And how much does the resister normally cost?
Thanks guys for the replys! |
Its on the blower itself. If I remember correctly its on the bottom right side and its just kind of there.
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while this threads open i got another question
if i turn my a/c to MAX AC it blows hot out the defroster, but on just A/C it works fine also sometimes when i use the defrost it wont turn back to the other modes bad switching mech or something? |
Originally Posted by Melt
(Post 1409085)
while this threads open i got another question
if i turn my a/c to MAX AC it blows hot out the defroster, but on just A/C it works fine also sometimes when i use the defrost it wont turn back to the other modes bad switching mech or something? |
Originally Posted by whippersnapper02
(Post 1409080)
Its on the blower itself. If I remember correctly its on the bottom right side and its just kind of there.
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Quick paint work. Lol.
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thanks Christian.
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2 Attachment(s)
Is this the Fan speed resister?
Attachment 145812 Attachment 145813 If thats it how do you get that connector off I was trying to get it off and it wouldn't budge. And is the truck driveable with this thing off the truck? |
When I did mine.. it took a solid half hour to get the old one unpluged. I would unbolt it first (the two little rusted bolts) then youll see the resistors and you can move it around to try and work the connector loose. You can take that rubber hose out of the box and tuck it out of the way for better work space, just make sure to reconnect it when your done. And if I remember right, a new resistor from ford was like 13 or 14 dollars when I did mine a few months ago.
And i would say it is drivable... but I wouldn't drive it. Get the new part, take the old off, put new on and be done with it. |
Oh so you don't have to unplug the connector first before taking it out. does the battery need to be disconnected?
Thanks for the info. |
Well just put in the new one, and all is good. Your right about getting that connector off, it took me a solid 20 minutes to get the dang thing off. I'm glad I did it myself, probably saved a good 100 bucks. Thanks everybody for the help. :biggthump
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