Ford Starter Helpful Info
#1
Ford Starter Helpful Info
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT extra cab 4X4 with a 4.0L engine. I ran into an issue the other day I thought I'd post about as it may help others.
It was our first really cold morning of the year and I went out to start the truck. It did the dreaded slow turn-over that typically a dying battery will make. I headed to the auto parts place to get a new Red Optima to replace the old CARQUEST battery that was in it. The truck fired right up as expected.
I stopped a few more places and it started fine. Then on my last stop of the day... I heard one click when I turned the ignition on. I tired it 10-15 times... Just one click each time. Okay... So now I am thinking starter. I found a hammer and smacked the starter and still just one click. So I sat there clicking away and on the 30th-40th try... The truck fired up... Off to the auto parts store again. I picked up a new starter.
These things are a bear to replace when just using ramps... So I disconnected the negative lead off the battery. I crawled underneath and was able to break loose the two big bolts holding it on. I then had to feel my way to get to the signal wire on the solenoid. When I went to loosen the 12V connector... I found it was already loose... It wasn't even finger tight it was so loose. I laid on my back and decided that was the problem and I could just go ahead and return the starter for a refund.
One thing I noticed on the new starter though... It came with a TSB inside and about 6 inches of wire with a crimp connector that was attached to the signal wire post. The TSB stated that Ford has found that the last 4 inches of signal wire can become corroded inside the wire insulation and it will loose conductivity/connectivity. So they recommend that you cut off the last 6 inches of the signal wire and splice on the cable included with the starter.
Just thought I'd let you all know what I found out...
It was our first really cold morning of the year and I went out to start the truck. It did the dreaded slow turn-over that typically a dying battery will make. I headed to the auto parts place to get a new Red Optima to replace the old CARQUEST battery that was in it. The truck fired right up as expected.
I stopped a few more places and it started fine. Then on my last stop of the day... I heard one click when I turned the ignition on. I tired it 10-15 times... Just one click each time. Okay... So now I am thinking starter. I found a hammer and smacked the starter and still just one click. So I sat there clicking away and on the 30th-40th try... The truck fired up... Off to the auto parts store again. I picked up a new starter.
These things are a bear to replace when just using ramps... So I disconnected the negative lead off the battery. I crawled underneath and was able to break loose the two big bolts holding it on. I then had to feel my way to get to the signal wire on the solenoid. When I went to loosen the 12V connector... I found it was already loose... It wasn't even finger tight it was so loose. I laid on my back and decided that was the problem and I could just go ahead and return the starter for a refund.
One thing I noticed on the new starter though... It came with a TSB inside and about 6 inches of wire with a crimp connector that was attached to the signal wire post. The TSB stated that Ford has found that the last 4 inches of signal wire can become corroded inside the wire insulation and it will loose conductivity/connectivity. So they recommend that you cut off the last 6 inches of the signal wire and splice on the cable included with the starter.
Just thought I'd let you all know what I found out...
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