Cold start valve noise. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 02-15-2012
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Cold start valve noise.

When I start the truck in the morning I get a little valve clatter until the lifters get oil. Any reasons why my lifters I are not getting oil?
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2012
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Are you using a heavier weight oil than truck calls for? And is your level good? If those are good, switching to synthetic would help flo faster.
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2012
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What is the temperature like where you live? Does it happen all the time or during cold weather? If you live in freezing temps thats may be the problem. You might want to switch to a 5w-30 synthetic oil it may help.
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Old 02-17-2012
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Change the oil filter. The anti-drainback valve in it may not be working. Use Motorcraft brand not a cheap Fram.
Since you didn't make a sig , I had to go through your old posts to see what you have. Makes it a pain.
97 2.3 2wd would take a Motorcraft FL1A which has the anti-drainback valve.
And with 388,000 miles on it, running 10W-30 weight dino oil won't hurt . Synthetic may clean out the seals too much and create leaks so I wouldn't spend the extra on it.

Last edited by OTRtech; 02-17-2012 at 04:11 AM.
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Old 02-22-2012
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Manuel (that's what I named my manual) told me to use 5w30. I'm smarter then Manuel so I used the 5w20 that I buy in bulk for my 'Scursion and a brand spanking new filter. Still does it, then it warmed up and is not below freezing with windchill and all and it sounds a lot better. Seems to be caused by cold. Mostly.

Maybe related is the fact that it will not warm up at idle. This is when it's also cold outside. It will only come off the C when I'm running up and down the road.

Keep in mind I'm at 388,880 miles?
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
running 10W-30 weight dino oil won't hurt .
You need a thicker oil at temp to make to fill in gaps, 10w30 is the same hot temp as 5w30.

In Kansas you don't need the 5w anyway.
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Old 02-23-2012
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Valvoline has an Extended Mileage Oil called “MaxLife” it comes in a lot of weights and it is designed to handle the small problems of high mileage older engines.
It is dino-oil will work as ststed above don’t go Synth-Oil.

Ford, in my experience, need to go by the book on weight, 5-20 in cold temp is OK and should allow the oil to flow in the cold weather.

About heating up, put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for warm up, don’t block the whole radiator may half. If it is hot enough when you start off you may need to remove the cardboard before taking off. If it is too hot cut the cardboard to ⅓ the radiator.

Semis use a similar method of a controllable curtain in front of the grille, just something to think about.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post

About heating up, put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for warm up, don’t block the whole radiator may half. If it is hot enough when you start off you may need to remove the cardboard before taking off. If it is too hot cut the cardboard to ⅓ the radiator.

Semis use a similar method of a controllable curtain in front of the grille, just something to think about.
Thermostat should take care of that shouldn't it?
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2012
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Originally Posted by LastStarfighter View Post
Thermostat should take care of that shouldn't it?
Normally it should, you did say while driving it works OK.
The T-Stat might have gone bad, replace it and see; you might replace it with a slightly higher temp one.

If all else is running OK and there is heat during normal running then the ambient temp might have something to do with it too, higher temp T-Stat might fix it.
How do you remedy it, either up the temp, on a good T-Stat, or reduce the air running through the radiator, i.e. cardboard or or some sort of block off, your call.

Another thought… first thing with cold engine remove the Radiator Cap, start the engine and see if there is a flow of coolant. If the coolant movement is fast then the possibility of the T-Stat being bad is high, if the movement is very slow then the bad T-Stat being bad is low.

Now put the Cap back on and try the cardboard. This will in effect raise the temp of the t-stat, not very good method but if this works out with the engine getting too hot then just replace t-stat with a higher temp.

Last edited by Scrambler82; 02-23-2012 at 09:33 AM.
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2012
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Is the 97 2.3 a pushrod or OHC engine.?
If it uses lifters , they could just be getting tired.
It might be worth it to drop the oil pan and clean the years worth of gunk out of the pickup screen. It might flow enough to get the pressure up , but the volume might not be there.
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2012
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See I thought lifters, but it has the timing belt that runs to the top of the engine in the head, so OverHeadCam. If it was my old ford I would have said Tired Lifters. Does a OHC have something like a lifter in it. I have to admit that I have never had an overhead cam.
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Old 02-23-2012
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the 97 is a OHC engine.
your lifters have probably collapsed. You can try an oil additive or something. at almost 400k, I'd learn to live with it.
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2012
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How hard is it to change a lifter?
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2012
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Originally Posted by LastStarfighter View Post
How hard is it to change a lifter?
Your pulling the heads off.
And if your doing that, your probably gonna be rebuilding a few more things than just lifters.
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  #15  
Old 02-24-2012
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Past few days have been warm so no trouble. This morning it was cold and I noticed that for about 2 seconds while I'm having the clatter, then needle jumps to normal and we are good. WTF?
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Old 02-24-2012
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Which needle?
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  #17  
Old 02-24-2012
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Oil pressure, sorry, don't know why I didn't put that.
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2012
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Had zero oil pressure right after i started it then it jumped up to normal. Clattered for like two seconds in the process. Thinking it might needs ceaning agent ran through it.
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2012
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Have you changed the oil since this started?
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2012
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He stated he had changed it and the problem still happens.

The next time the oil is changed , or just drain it now into a clean pan to re-use, If the drain plug screws into the pan from the rear and not the bottom insert a long thin screwdriver into the drain hole.Slowly move the screwdriver back and forth so it scrapes the bottom of the pan.Pull the screwdriver out slowly and see if a thick sludge has stuck to it.
If it has then drop the pan to clean it and the pickup screen as it's probably blocked.
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  #21  
Old 02-25-2012
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I meant with the heavier or correct weight, thinner oil will have less pressure in a well worn engine.
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
He stated he had changed it and the problem still happens.

The next time the oil is changed , or just drain it now into a clean pan to re-use, If the drain plug screws into the pan from the rear and not the bottom insert a long thin screwdriver into the drain hole.Slowly move the screwdriver back and forth so it scrapes the bottom of the pan.Pull the screwdriver out slowly and see if a thick sludge has stuck to it.
If it has then drop the pan to clean it and the pickup screen as it's probably blocked.
It's got. 388000 miles. I'll just drop it
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
I meant with the heavier or correct weight, thinner oil will have less pressure in a well worn engine.
I put 5-20 in it. I dunno what it had in it.
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