Crossmember frame repair etc
 

I tried to help. Quality isn't that great but at least I took a lot of video to try to show a lot of what we're up against if you have to dive into this issue. I still don't see a ton posted or videos about it so heres what I have. I don't see the sense in uploading to this site or attaching anything more than a link as the 5 part series can be dissected in youtube. Take care everyone

Ok, I have a similiar issue with my Ranger in NH, your best bet it to replace the entire rear frame section.
Allied Auto Recyling in Weare NH, has rear frame sections for $850.
The rear section is riveted on at the front leaf spring hander.
Grind or drill the rivets out and bolt in the near frame using grade 8 bolts.
Here is a picture of the new frame section as purchased, I now have the new frame cleaned up and painted.
It cleaned up really nice and looks new. I will try and post anther pic later today
I also attached a pic of the rust problem I have.
Hoping to get it installed before Thanksgiving. (I have other projects slowing my progress on the truck)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e18d3b284f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...7d4187629d.jpg

I agree that an entirely 'new' rear frame that is sourced from southern climates is a good overall fix for any and all major rear frame rust, cracks, and maybe even crossmember failure. By the time you get everything off to address welding on the rear frame, you're only a few steps away from just replacing it. I'd sand blast it and coat it with your favorite undercoating (mines por-15 2 coats). I felt my rear frame had a lot of life in it, at the time there weren't rear frames easily available up here in the rust belt, and thought that the crossmember repair was some sort of valuable contribution. Whatever you do, take your time and save yourself the cost of whatever the dealerships quoting you, which is way more than you should pay if you have the skill set to DIY.

Show us the picture of your rear frame painted and installed if you can RON. Thanks!

I feel sorry for you guys in the land of salt. Buy a new vehicle and within a few years it is rusted to pieces. I didn't realize how bad it was until I purchased a Ranger "at a really good deal" from Ohio back in early 2019. It was icy and snowing when I purchased it so I didn't get to crawl underneath and really have a good look. When I got it home I realized the back end was eaten up.

The rear section can easily be replaced. It is just a lot of work. Cut the rivets and remove the rear section, then bolt up the new. Ford coats the frames with a tar like substance. A heat gun and scraper will remove most of the coating, followed by laquer thinner to get everything to bare metal. Use the complete POR15 process and then topcoat. It will be way more durable than original. Good luck.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e7f788e982.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...56e28dd3a8.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e99b7af50c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...e5af9acfb6.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...ed86f980d5.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...468412e6e7.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...8aa1d3c613.jpg


​​​

Made some progress since my last message 3 weeks ago.
Got the new frame sand blasted and painted. I have very good luck with "Eastwood Rust Encapsulator"
Seems to adhere very well to light surface rust, dries hard and is very though to wear off or sand.
Soes take a topcoat very well after curing for a Minium of 48 hours.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...b0aa03d402.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...8b4af110cb.jpg