so tonight im coming home from dinner with my parents. im going along not 3 blocks from where i left and my truck dies. its done this before. randomly dies, and or wont start. usualy after im gone somewhere and shut it off atleast once.

usualy get pissed off an start checking conections to everything i can. after 10 min or 1/2 hour it will just fire right up like no problem. tonight my dad and mom were behind me so my dad is standing there confused lol hes old skol car guy, no computer stuff. anyway aftewr a while it fires up so i start back home and it dies again. pop hood and monkey with it this time wiggleing the main EEC relays and 60A fuses in the power box. again it fires right up. so i get it home and run to the house and grab my code tool. noting new same code as before. 214 cylender ID not working. i keep screwing with it in the driveway at home. some time starts like a champ sometime no go.

i was messing with the EEC relay and it would start, i would wiggle it and i could hear sensors clicking like wehn you turn the key on. i swaped positions with the new A/C WOT replay i just put in and the EEC one where the A/C relay goes. sofar seems to work fine.

i like to go places way out in the sticks kinda like to get the damn thing fixed, but yet stay away from the mechanic lol good mechanic aint cheep by the Hr.

i hate computers for this reason, that anything can go wrong and be a total pain to find the problem.


BTW: i think my bank 1 (passenger side right?) oxygen sensor is crapped out. im getting no voltage reading for it. yet i think bank 2 (drivers side?) is working at idle the voltage vaires anywhere from 0.08- 0.83 volts. also the tool said my look status is : closed whats that mean?

i had a code that comes and goes for 124 the TPS voltage higher than expected. the reading i got from my code tool showed it stayed right at 1.0 volt.

and i got code 528 some clutch sensor is not showing or something. i think it was an error read.

help please!

 

make sure your vacume lines are attached.

 

tonight the damn thing would not start!

i would turn the key to on and everything would dim like a dead batt, no lights nada. just enough to turn the dome light on. it was making a wierd smell like rotten egg smell and i think i could her it poping inside. i yanked the neg cable and finaly pulled the whole damn thing out.

put one of those jumpstart pack on the cables and everyting worked fine, not enough ***** to start it but work the lights n stuff. i put my multi meter in line and checked my amp draw at rest it was 0.005A looked fine to me, nothing pulling a large load. so tomorrow im going to load test the batt with a snap-on tool brand tester and see whats going on here. maybe swap in a batt from my 77 el camino and see what happens. if all works good ill buy a new batt.

now im wondering if the battery had an internal problem and my alternator is taking a crap too and causeing my random dieing and then run fine for a while. makes sense to me.

i still have to get some money to replace the bank 1 o2 sensor, sparkplug wires, throttle position sensor, and crank shaft cylender ID sensor.

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. Keep us informed.

 

i could not even jump the truck with the key off by jumping the solenoid on the left fender. i just got the rotten egg smell.

 

You prally fried something. Like wires or your ECU. IMO just take it too the mechanic before you cause more costly repairs

 

well update.

i load tested my old battery and it was deader than a door nail. took it to parts store for a core and got a new one, put it in and on first try fired up strong.

now the computer has found its bearings again its back to it usual self. when i have my AC on and the blower on high the volt gauge drops a little and stays. and i had my small trailer hooked up tonight and AC on and at a stop light with brakes on it dropped way down. im thinking my stock alternator is not up to the task anymore. i tested the alternator today and according to my battery load testewr which check the chargeing circuit says it fine.

well should have new job soon, upgrade it to a 200A alt and do all the other repairs i need.

will see if the battery solves the random dieing issue, i hope

 

when you say it doesnt start.. does that mean it does not crank at all or does the enigne turn over but doeant fire??

the rotten egg smell you were smeeling was the battery about to explde, good thing you got rid of it..

and closed loop is the status of the emissions control system, basically in closed loop the computer will look at inputs and controll the fuel trim. in open loop the ecu just uses preset tables to guess the fuel trim.. this also controlls timing and other outputs but you get the picture...

and i did a little research on the code
"214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal "
if i understand what that means is that the computer is loosing either the cam sensor reading or crank position sensor reading which would cause the loss of spark or inappropriatly timed spark and therefor cause it to die..

so if it was either of those the truck wouldnt "stumble" to a stop but rather just turn off as if you had turned the key off, and it would crank but not start. and the car wouldnt give any signs of starting ( no poping or combusion of any kind mostlikly) and then wham runs perfect..

SO if what i described above is the case what you need to do is see if it has a crank and a cam position sensor and unplug one.. if it still starts and runns plug it back in and unplugg the other one ( it will most-likely and hopefully die) and the chances are good that thats the faulty one.. now if it wont run with either of them disconnected OR it runs with both of them disconnected then your going to need a full blown scan tool or a Didgital osciliscope to figure it out..

Sorry for the long winded post.. and i hope its understandable my brain jumps around sometimes.. but in any event now that you have a new battery drive it around and see what happneds, if at all pssible keep the code reader with you and if it turns off scan it real quick and see if the "214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal " code came back


JOSH

 

ill just be going along and it will die, warm or cold. it will crank over but just seems like there no ingition to get her spinning on her own.

yea that batt was junk.

ill have to try those methods for the sensors. i know where the one is on the crank shaft. but the one on the cam shaft i cant seem to see it. i looked where my engine book said it was but maybe ill have to look again.

i need to fix code 214 because with out it i can not read my KOER codes. i know theres some stuff going on when its running that need to be addressed but i cant read it LOL.

here is my code tool i use for my OBD 1 stuff. and much more.
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16143

heres the book i have on ford computers n stuff. i know it goes till 93 but it does cover what i need sofar.

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/boo...3013&pdf=y&z=y

 

the way you describe it it sounds like its one of the two sensors..ok well if you have a cam sensor it will be in the back of the engine sticking up right behind the intake.. like where a distributor on a chevy 350 is.. and it appears you can read live data from your scanner so what you would want to look for is cam or crank position sensor readings it may be in degrees or counts i neer looked at one on a ford.. also look in that book you have on the ford computer and see where the ecu gets its igniton signal from, weather its the crank or cam sensors..

try this also.. delete the code and drive it around the block, to the store, you know just alittle drive with varying rpms. come back and without turning off the key( sometimes the code will erace.. (yay obdI) and check for memory codes if its there AND you can look at caom/crank sensor readings delete the code and test drive. take a friend with you and have him watch the cam and crank readings. if one goes out and then the code comes back wala thats the one


JOSH

 

well both sensors are on the front of the engine as far as i know. but i havent looked yet.

ive erased the computer and those are the cods coming back. i hate where ford put the obd! test plug under the hood. no easy way to route a extension with out crushing the cord, hate to crush my brand new test extension cord, eh then again i havent had a chance to check for another way which i know there is.

if anything ill bring my book and code tool and when we meet up we can give it a quick look over.

 

you should be able to run it right over the cowl, i belive there is jsut a rubber gasket there?? if so it wont hurt anyhting i run various pressure gadges and all sorts of junk through there..
or you can even put something bigger in right next to the cord like a.. pencil? maybe that way the pressure will be on the object not the cord

JOSH