General Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Exhaust Manifold

  #1  
Old 03-12-2019
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Exhaust Manifold

OK, so I replaced the cylinder head on a 2006 2.3. It is running good now, except it seems a little loud. Like the exhaust manifold isn't set on there right. When I installed the manifold, I had to drive the studs into the head while the head was installed, and I got 6 of the 7 all the way in. The seventh one, all the way in the back, I could not get that one in all the way. I probably could do it now, but I guess this is more of an overall question. Does the manifold need to be re torqued after a few heat ups and cool downs? Would one manifold stud being imperfect cause excessive noise?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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So, I had the AC compressor out a few days ago so I could tighten up some of the exhaust manifold bolts. I did. The problem now is that last stud in the back is in a little cockeyed. It's real tight, but cockeyed. Could this be the source of my noise? I couldn't get a helicoil in back there if I needed to, I wonder if a muffler shop could do that?

I also seem to be losing a little coolant. I don't have any on the ground, and the only thing I can think of is I needed to "make" a gasket with RTV on the back of the head where the large coolant pipe goes in (or is it out? it's probaly in). Not a lot, a little loss. This truck has the closed system with no radiator cap. Does this system need some time to equilibrate?

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
 
  #3  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Glad to hear you got her running!

The way I found my exhaust leak was sticking a shop vac in the muffler and turn it to the position where it blows air. You can even use a leaf blower. Then spray down the manifold with soapy water.


I had to top off my coolant two or three times after my head gasket repair. Probably still had some air in the system. All is well now.
 
  #4  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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+1, great idea to use shop vac in tail pipe

Yes, after having head off I would check coolant level daily and then see if it stops "losing" coolant after a week or so

A leak in the exhaust system between head and O2 sensor will cause engine to run Rich, it cause a False Lean, so money out of your pocket as MPG goes down
 
  #5  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I have no idea what my mpg's are, I just got this truck and haven't even run a full tank of gas through it yet! When I got it, I had the misfire codes, leaks and no compression in cylinder 1. That's what led to the cylinder head replacement.

OK, I will hook the shop vac to the tail pipe maybe tomorrow and see if I can find leaks.

Big question is, if I have a leak at the back of the manifold, I have a screwed up stud in there. It's cross threaded in there. Tight, but not straight. If this needs to be fixed, can a muffler shop do that without removing the head? I sure couldn't get a drill in there to do a helicoil if I needed to.

But who knows? Maybe the exhaust leak isn't at the manifold. It could be after the manifold at the pipe after the O2 sensor. I do not have any codes, so I'm suspecting it might be there.

Time will tell.

Thanks again all, very very helpful.
 
  #6  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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So I hooked up the shop vac exhaust to the exhaust. I had some foaming around a couple of spots on the exhaust manifold, not big bubbles but a little foaming. I'm getting frustrated with this and may opt to bring it to a local muffler shop to tie up this final shoelace.

My question is can they get a helicoil into a tight space if necessary? I have one stud that is cross threaded and I fear that is my problem. If it isn't great, but if it is, can a muffler shop do that?

Thanks again guys, you are so helpful.

Tim
 
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Yes, they can, but they may be able to just re-tap threads straight
 
  #8  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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So the muffler shop is saying that the manifold is on the head nice and tight, and they don't recommend messing with it at this point.

I asked them why I am getting noise. The noise I get happens under load, when I am driving around. It sounds to me like exhaust noise from a leak.

They drove it around and said they suspect it is the transmission.

This truck is really frustrating me. I may take it to a transmission shop and see what they say.

Ugh.
 
  #9  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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So letís imagine worst case I need a new transmission. 2006 2.3 2WD manual. How many shop hours would that be?
 
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You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, and you would swap it out for a new or used M5OD-R1 not rebuild it

M5R1 transmissions were used from 1988 to 2011 in Rangers, with very few problems, so a used one is a very safe bet

It does need to be from/for a 2002-2011, Ranger 2.3l, or Mazda B-2300, so bell housing matches, they only came in 2WD in those years

And you are probably looking at 6 hours shop time for transmission removal and replacement

But you would also want to change the rear coolant hose and fitting on the engine, it can only be accessed when transmission is out
Also install new Rear Main Seal while transmission is out, these are not expensive parts unless they leak and you have to pay the 6 hours labor to get to them, lol.


So find a new/rebuilt or used M5R1 for 2002-2011 2.3l engine, then that cost plus say 8 hours shop time
May want to install new clutch but up to you
 
  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Thanks Ron.

I'm not entirely sure I have a transmission problem here but I can't rule it out either. Here is the situation:

I replaced the cylinder head on this 06 2.3 RWD Ranger. The first time I replaced it, I messed up because the timing couldn't be set right (I could not tell until after disassembly again) long story short, a second reman head was put on, motor timed, reassembled. Started right up (with lots of help from RonD and others), idles nice. But when you are driving the truck it makes noise and vibrates, like a throaty noise when it's under load. I took it to a muffler shop because when I was reattaching the exhaust manifold, I messed up and cross threaded one stud into the head. However, I did tighten it down. The muffler shop says no exhaust leaks. They said just leave that stud like it is for now, otherwise the head has to come off again, and I don't want to do that again. They said they think the noise under load is the transmission.

It makes noise under load especially at around 50 mph in fourth and especially 5th gear. I'm just not sure it is a transmission problem. I am beginning to suspect that this problem is entirely separate from the head replacement I just did.

I don't think it is the engine making this noise, meaning I think it may be either the trans, or some driveline component that receives power from the motor. Reason I'm saying this is because it does not make that same noise if I go into neutral at speed (so I'm ruling out anything that spins but is not under power, like bent rims etc). The noise is best described as a noise with vibration, it's part audible and part vibration if that makes any sense. This noise is only present when I am in gear, not present in neutral and not present in gear with the clutch pedal at the floor. The noise also is not there unless I am giving it throttle and applying driving force.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,

Tim
 
  #12  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Motor mounts are a possibility, if one is bad, the torque of the motor could be causing part of the exhaust system to hit the frame or body.

A missing or broken exhaust hanger is another possibility.
 
  #13  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by thyde View Post
OK, so I replaced the cylinder head on a 2006 2.3. It is running good now, except it seems a little loud. Like the exhaust manifold isn't set on there right. When I installed the manifold, I had to drive the studs into the head while the head was installed, and I got 6 of the 7 all the way in. The seventh one, all the way in the back, I could not get that one in all the way. I probably could do it now, but I guess this is more of an overall question. Does the manifold need to be re torqued after a few heat ups and cool downs? Would one manifold stud being imperfect cause excessive noise?

Thanks in advance.
When i installed manifolds on my newer engine to go into my truck, i torqued up the manifold bolts once and they were fine. Originally i didn't have the bolts tight so when i started the truck up it wasn't running right. However I tightened the studs once and had them coated with anti seize.This is basically two years later and still no exhaust leak. I did however use new gaskets! If you had just the one stud messed up, i can't see it causing a huge issue as long as the rest of the studs were tight. I'd be wondering if the gasket was sitting correctly.
 
  #14  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Thanks guys. The gasket is new and on there fine, and there isn't a leak at the manifold, at least not according to a well regarded muffler shop around here. Again, I can't rule the tranny out. Maybe I'll change the fluid in there and see what it looks like. Not that that is diagnostic, but I am curious as to whether there is even enough trans fluid in there. I think the appearance of the fluid will tell me something, and I'm curious to see what might happen if I just change the fluid. I'm really hoping I don't need a new trans. I should mention this Ranger has over 220,000 miles on it.
 
  #15  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by thyde View Post
Thanks guys. The gasket is new and on there fine, and there isn't a leak at the manifold, at least not according to a well regarded muffler shop around here. Again, I can't rule the tranny out. Maybe I'll change the fluid in there and see what it looks like. Not that that is diagnostic, but I am curious as to whether there is even enough trans fluid in there. I think the appearance of the fluid will tell me something, and I'm curious to see what might happen if I just change the fluid. I'm really hoping I don't need a new trans. I should mention this Ranger has over 220,000 miles on it.
if you donít know whatís in the tranny, Iíd recommend changing the fluid. It is not very pricey, and it gives you a great chance to see whatís going on inside. ( oil quality, shavings, etc). When I changed my gearbox oil it was black and dirty. Itís suppose to be atf Mercon 5 in my gearbox. At least the levels were fine and I got too see the amount of shavings on my magnetic drain plug. Certainly worth the peace of mind. Proper maintenance saves big money in the long run with all issues
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by NLBurden View Post
if you donít know whatís in the tranny, Iíd recommend changing the fluid. It is not very pricey, and it gives you a great chance to see whatís going on inside. ( oil quality, shavings, etc). When I changed my gearbox oil it was black and dirty. Itís suppose to be atf Mercon 5 in my gearbox. At least the levels were fine and I got too see the amount of shavings on my magnetic drain plug. Certainly worth the peace of mind. Proper maintenance saves big money in the long run with all issues
Oh, I agree. I just picked this truck up this year, and when I got it it had a CEL for misfires in cylinder 1. Got it cheap for that reason. I figured, OK, maybe plugs, wires, coils. Replaced them all, no. Head. So I replaced the head, twice due to a timing issue, and now the motor runs. It just makes noise and vibrates when I'm up around 50 MPH and higher. So I want to try and get this truck running right and I want to try and do all of the low cost things and eliminate them before I have to replace the trans. That would be another high dollar thing. I may bring it to a trans shop and see what they think, butt my fear is that they will say "you need to replace the transmission" and how do I know that is true?
 
  #17  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by thyde View Post
Oh, I agree. I just picked this truck up this year, and when I got it it had a CEL for misfires in cylinder 1. Got it cheap for that reason. I figured, OK, maybe plugs, wires, coils. Replaced them all, no. Head. So I replaced the head, twice due to a timing issue, and now the motor runs. It just makes noise and vibrates when I'm up around 50 MPH and higher. So I want to try and get this truck running right and I want to try and do all of the low cost things and eliminate them before I have to replace the trans. That would be another high dollar thing. I may bring it to a trans shop and see what they think, butt my fear is that they will say "you need to replace the transmission" and how do I know that is true?
Iím not very knowledgeable about the automatics as Iíve only ever owned manuals. However Iíd certainly explore your options first. If youíre handy with tools and mechanical minded replacing a tranny isnít huge. I done my first engine job from what I learned on here. When I got stuck I checked back on here. Certain garages are cheaper to do jobs too. I had a pilot bearing replaced before for 500$ ( all work including tranny removal and reinstall ), other garages wanted 1000$.
 
  #18  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I'm mechanically inclined enough to have replaced the cylinder head, so I'm starting to think if I have the right tools like a tranny hoist I could probably do it. It's a manual transmission by the way. Five speed. I'm just all over the place with what to do with this truck, meaning sell it? Fix it? I just don't know what to do.
 
  #19  
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Originally Posted by thyde View Post
I'm mechanically inclined enough to have replaced the cylinder head, so I'm starting to think if I have the right tools like a tranny hoist I could probably do it. It's a manual transmission by the way. Five speed. I'm just all over the place with what to do with this truck, meaning sell it? Fix it? I just don't know what to do.
manual transmission is super easy to replace if need be. Thereís a few videos on YouTube as well. Just look up ford ranger clutch replacement or something like that. I used to use a normal floor Jack with some plywood bolted too it ( 2 or 3 layers and strap the trans to the wood on top of the Jack). Change out the fluid and go from there. It could be a simple thing. I had a bad clunk recently, I wanted to overthink it and started to think about transmission bearings but sure enough it was just a u joint gone on my driveshaft.
 
  #20  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Yeah, thanks. Time to calm down and check stuff. I really donít know what it is and thinking transmission first is not really a winner. It could be any number of things.
 
  #21  
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Take a video of whatís going on, it may help with troubleshooting
 
  #22  
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I'm starting to think U joint. I should check it at least.
 
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If you "think" its u-joint then just mark and pull out the drive shaft, replace the u-joints, they are cheap, not hard to replace, and then its done
 
  #24  
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Ron, I am learning that the best course of action is pretty much do whatever you say!

I have two new universal joints in the driveshaft, and tomorrow when it's light out again the shaft goes back under the truck. I have it marked, so I can put it back as it came off. I marked the yoke on both sides too, so I was able to put it back together exactly as it came off and apart. The old u joints did have a lot of play, were rusted as heck and a couple of the caps had no grease left in them. Optimism is present, but I don't want to jinx it.

If this solves the problem, I will be one very very happy 200k mile plus ranger owner!

Wish me luck, Ranger people. Wish me luck.

Slainte!

Tim
 
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Good work and good luck
 

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