Front Hitches: Pic Request
#1
Front Hitches: Pic Request
Im looking to put a front hitch on my truck soon and I just looked at the instructions for a bolt on one and it looks like a pain in the *** just because you have to pass bolts through the CLOSED PART OF THE FRAME through a little hole.
LEWK HEER http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=31500
So, those of you who have one welded to the frame, if you have pictures of how you welded it on (without the bumper on yet) and where you cut the hitch and stuff that would be great. I just want to get an idea so i can bring it to a shop and get it welded on when the time comes.
Thanks.
LEWK HEER http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=31500
So, those of you who have one welded to the frame, if you have pictures of how you welded it on (without the bumper on yet) and where you cut the hitch and stuff that would be great. I just want to get an idea so i can bring it to a shop and get it welded on when the time comes.
Thanks.
#5
Thank you for the open invitation to *****.
Hidden Hitch placed ONTOP of frame then welded. Placed ontop to compensate for the bodylift. If I could do it again, I would. It sits too high and I had to trim the valence, otherwise w/o a trim, the bumper would be pushed up allll the way and way too tight of a gap. Next time, I would modify a rear hitch to fit and have it sticking out the hole perfectly.
What I used...Hidden Hitch 5014 or 5144(i think). Supposedly it's out of production.
My welder S-canned on me....so off to my buddys for some die cutting and dual core beads.
Had to trim a lip of sorts on the metal bumper...but it's invisible from the outside. Had to trim it to clear the female end of the hitch.
Bumper adjusted all the way up...horrible gaps.
And trimmed valence and an actual bumper gap. lol.
Hidden Hitch placed ONTOP of frame then welded. Placed ontop to compensate for the bodylift. If I could do it again, I would. It sits too high and I had to trim the valence, otherwise w/o a trim, the bumper would be pushed up allll the way and way too tight of a gap. Next time, I would modify a rear hitch to fit and have it sticking out the hole perfectly.
What I used...Hidden Hitch 5014 or 5144(i think). Supposedly it's out of production.
My welder S-canned on me....so off to my buddys for some die cutting and dual core beads.
Had to trim a lip of sorts on the metal bumper...but it's invisible from the outside. Had to trim it to clear the female end of the hitch.
Bumper adjusted all the way up...horrible gaps.
And trimmed valence and an actual bumper gap. lol.
#7
#9
Here's a link to Trevor's build thread or whatever. You can see how much lower his hitch is compared to mine. Height wise it's perfect. Depth wise...it's not deep enough for me. Rubs his valence and his paint's goin' to hell on it because of his lock.
Click: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...-got-done.html
Click: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...-got-done.html
Well this is my last real major fab project of the term. Took me about 5-6 hours to finish it up and painted everything.
I was a lil unhappy about where I put the hitch after I had it welded. I should have cut all the way throught the cross member and put the top of the hitch flush with the top of the cross member, but for the purpose, it's not all that bad.
It's welded in all places where it was touching either frame or cross member and sits right on top of the lower part of the valence. With how it sits, it gave me about a 1in gap between the bumper and the body, but I'm learning to deal with it. I have a front hitch now. Winch time!
Here's the pics.
Before:
During:
(You can see where I should have gone all the through the cross member, but eh, I'm ok with it now)
After:
And the bumper back on:
Slide in receiver shakle is going to be done and finished tomorrow, awaiting a shackle that I'll pick up from a buddy of mine this weekend!
What do you guys think? Not bad for $20! Hitch was a rear from a toyota 4Runner that a friend of mine had in his shop... He was gonna sell it for $75, but sold it to me for $20 since I go to him for all my parts! Hookups FTW!!!
I was a lil unhappy about where I put the hitch after I had it welded. I should have cut all the way throught the cross member and put the top of the hitch flush with the top of the cross member, but for the purpose, it's not all that bad.
It's welded in all places where it was touching either frame or cross member and sits right on top of the lower part of the valence. With how it sits, it gave me about a 1in gap between the bumper and the body, but I'm learning to deal with it. I have a front hitch now. Winch time!
Here's the pics.
Before:
During:
(You can see where I should have gone all the through the cross member, but eh, I'm ok with it now)
After:
And the bumper back on:
Slide in receiver shakle is going to be done and finished tomorrow, awaiting a shackle that I'll pick up from a buddy of mine this weekend!
What do you guys think? Not bad for $20! Hitch was a rear from a toyota 4Runner that a friend of mine had in his shop... He was gonna sell it for $75, but sold it to me for $20 since I go to him for all my parts! Hookups FTW!!!
#10
Thank you for the open invitation to *****.
Hidden Hitch placed ONTOP of frame then welded. Placed ontop to compensate for the bodylift. If I could do it again, I would. It sits too high and I had to trim the valence, otherwise w/o a trim, the bumper would be pushed up allll the way and way too tight of a gap. Next time, I would modify a rear hitch to fit and have it sticking out the hole perfectly.
What I used...Hidden Hitch 5014 or 5144(i think). Supposedly it's out of production.
My welder S-canned on me....so off to my buddys for some die cutting and dual core beads.
Had to trim a lip of sorts on the metal bumper...but it's invisible from the outside. Had to trim it to clear the female end of the hitch.
Bumper adjusted all the way up...horrible gaps.
And trimmed valence and an actual bumper gap. lol.
Hidden Hitch placed ONTOP of frame then welded. Placed ontop to compensate for the bodylift. If I could do it again, I would. It sits too high and I had to trim the valence, otherwise w/o a trim, the bumper would be pushed up allll the way and way too tight of a gap. Next time, I would modify a rear hitch to fit and have it sticking out the hole perfectly.
What I used...Hidden Hitch 5014 or 5144(i think). Supposedly it's out of production.
My welder S-canned on me....so off to my buddys for some die cutting and dual core beads.
Had to trim a lip of sorts on the metal bumper...but it's invisible from the outside. Had to trim it to clear the female end of the hitch.
Bumper adjusted all the way up...horrible gaps.
And trimmed valence and an actual bumper gap. lol.
yeah it seems like a pain to do a bolt on thats why i want to get it welded on and then i won't have to "mod" my skidplate to fit...im not cutting it up lol
#13
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Stylin' Trucks Truck Accessories -- pickup truck, SUV, and custom truck accessories instock :) or so they say
#14
#15
Stylin' Trucks Truck Accessories -- pickup truck, SUV, and custom truck accessories instock :) or so they say
See:
Imagine that plus a bodylift!
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I know you've seen mine. I didnt have to mod the skid plate but it does come rigth up to the bottom of my hitch. And this way its a bolt on and will fit most rangers, so if i ever build a custom bumper ill sell this hitch. I know that across the frame is stronger than the tow points, but i know that some ppl have winch plates that bolt to those tow mounts.
#24
I know you've seen mine. I didnt have to mod the skid plate but it does come rigth up to the bottom of my hitch. And this way its a bolt on and will fit most rangers, so if i ever build a custom bumper ill sell this hitch. I know that across the frame is stronger than the tow points, but i know that some ppl have winch plates that bolt to those tow mounts.
#25
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mine is 100% my own. i used the receiver piece off an old hitch from our minivan. and the cross member piece was a scrap peice of stainless my buddie had at his shop
from this
to this
to this