General Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Help! Horrible Gas Mileage.

  #1  
Old 01-28-2019
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Help! Horrible Gas Mileage.

I got this ranger from my grandpa and I have all the records for the work done to it. I cleaned it up paint etc... anyways Iím starting to get horrible gas mileage (4.0L) I end up having to fill up every 3-4 days and I just go down the street. If I go on the freeway my mileage gets even worse. Any idea what would cause such an event? Iíll be viewing this discussion regularly and replying to questions to the best of my ability.
 

Last edited by Chriswells12; 01-28-2019 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Wrong title
  #2  
Old 01-29-2019
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No help, but ive got the same thing goin on.
 
  #3  
Old 01-29-2019
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a. Can you record the actual mpg numbers for three or four fill-ups?
b. Can you get to a scanner and see what the fuel trims look like?
 
  #4  
Old 01-29-2019
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What YEAR Ranger?

Any other running issues?
Low power
Stumbling
Low or little heat from the heater in the cab.

Clean the MAF sensor, every year on a 4.0l engine, easy to do


Poor MPG can be caused by a few things
Neighborhood kid with a siphon hose...................lol
Leak in a fuel line

ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is not warming up with the engine, so computer is running in Choke mode all the time
Exhaust leak between engine and O2 sensor, false lean so engine runs Rich
Depending on the YEAR, fuel pressure regulator


Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with Key ON, and then go off after start up?
If not then bulb may be burnt out and you could have some trouble codes that will help pin point the problem

And there may be Temp/Pending Codes even if CEL is working, so might be worth while to swing by an auto parts store and have them Read the codes, its free, and WRITE DOWN any codes, "I think it was............" is worse than no codes
And don't buy any suggested items from the guy who reads the codes, they would be working as a mechanic if they knew what codes meant
 

Last edited by RonD; 01-29-2019 at 10:33 AM.
  #5  
Old 01-29-2019
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Thank you for your tips I will take a look at everything you posted. As for leaks there are none. It runs great. I sit it in my driveway and Iíve let it idle and still no leaks. In the morning when it is cold sometimes my truck refuses to start. I turn the car into the cranking position back and forth fast then it finally kicks the fuel pump on (I can hear it not coming on then come on). Maybe that leads to bad gas mileage?
 
  #6  
Old 01-29-2019
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Originally Posted by kenhigg View Post
a. Can you record the actual mpg numbers for three or four fill-ups?
b. Can you get to a scanner and see what the fuel trims look like?
Iíve been looking at scanners do you know what is a good one to buy for this? I donít know much about scanners and Iím a broke college student.
As for gas I recorded it before 11mpg city and even worse freeway
 
  #7  
Old 01-29-2019
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
What YEAR Ranger?

Any other running issues?
Low power
Stumbling
Low or little heat from the heater in the cab.

Clean the MAF sensor, every year on a 4.0l engine, easy to do


Poor MPG can be caused by a few things
Neighborhood kid with a siphon hose...................lol
Leak in a fuel line

ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is not warming up with the engine, so computer is running in Choke mode all the time
Exhaust leak between engine and O2 sensor, false lean so engine runs Rich
Depending on the YEAR, fuel pressure regulator


Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with Key ON, and then go off after start up?
If not then bulb may be burnt out and you could have some trouble codes that will help pin point the problem

And there may be Temp/Pending Codes even if CEL is working, so might be worth while to swing by an auto parts store and have them Read the codes, its free, and WRITE DOWN any codes, "I think it was............" is worse than no codes
And don't buy any suggested items from the guy who reads the codes, they would be working as a mechanic if they knew what codes meant
Ok Iíll do this today
 
  #8  
Old 01-29-2019
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What YEAR?????
 
  #9  
Old 01-29-2019
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
What YEAR?????
2004 Edge
 
  #10  
Old 01-29-2019
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Originally Posted by Chriswells12 View Post

Iíve been looking at scanners do you know what is a good one to buy for this? I donít know much about scanners and Iím a broke college student.
As for gas I recorded it before 11mpg city and even worse freeway
Wow - not sure why this isn't throwing an engine code. My suggestion is to find a parts store and ask them to scan it. Try to go by when they aren't busy. And hang out in one and eaves drop the people at the counter. You can usually tell when someone knows what they're talking about :) What I would look for first is to know what the fuel trims are. This should tell you if it's running rich and may point you down a certain path, intake leak, etc. Next, if their scanner has the capability, see if there are any mis-fires recorded. If they see isolated mis-fires, say only on certain cylinders, this might suggest injector or spark issues... You have to have a diagnosis strategy :)
 
  #11  
Old 01-29-2019
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So a 4.0l SOHC engine, 2001 and up Rangers, 1990 to 2000 used the 4.0l OHV, which was much different

You will have a Returnless fuel system so no FPR to leak, but 55psi fuel pressure so can leak anywhere from gas tank to engine, without being noticed in cold weather, if you change fuel filter recently run your hand around connections and then smell you finger for gas smell

Sudden change in MPG can't be O2 sensors, at lease if there are no codes.

Does Engine temp on the dash seem to be the same, just below 1/2 after warm up?

You can get OBD2 Bluetooth readers for $10-$20, they use your smartphone as the display, LCD panel on handheld readers is the expensive part of the device, so since I assume you have a cell phone then all you need is the interface the OBD2 Bluetooth reader

OBD2 APPs are free for android or iPhone, they have APPs for more advanced users for $5
 
  #12  
Old 01-29-2019
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[QUOTE=RonD;2148297]So a 4.0l SOHC engine, 2001 and up Rangers
Does Engine temp on the dash seem to be the same, just below 1/2 after warm up?

Yes according to the gauge temps are normal

Honestly thank you all for the help.
 
  #13  
Old 01-30-2019
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I vote for ECT sensor
 
  #14  
Old 01-30-2019
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Iím gunna clean my air flow sensor now. Went to the local auto store and unfortunately there where no codes pending. Does that rule out the sensors as the problem?
 
  #15  
Old 01-30-2019
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So I cleaned my MAF sensor with MAF cleaner let it sit for 30min then plugged everything back in. After I did this since I was already messing with the thing I saw a video the if your car is running and you unplug the MAF sensor your car will shut off. I tried this and my truck kept running. Should the sensor on a 2004 edge shut off the truck when unplugged?
 
  #16  
Old 01-30-2019
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No, engine should keep running, on MOST cars, I see this test posted now and then and its just not universal

It has to do with the software in the computer, the software writer can tell computer to shut off fuel injectors if MAF signal suddenly stops, or NOT, or any other sensor
But it doesn't "prove" anything either way, lol.

You can usually start ANY engine with MAF sensor already disconnected, and it should run OK, might not be great but OK

MAF sensor measures the WEIGHT of the in coming air
Cold air is heavier than warm air, i.e. "hot air rises" why?, because its Lighter than colder air
Air at sea level is heavier than air at 4,000ft elevation,, i.e. thinner air the higher up you go

So air WEIGHT can be all over the map.

Air:fuel ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1 and this is a WEIGHT Ratio
14.7 POUNDS of air to 1 POUND of gasoline
14.7 grams of air to 1 gram of gasoline

This is why 200mpg carburetors and "pre-vaporizers" were and are a bunch of hooey, lol.

Gasoline's weight doesn't change much, with temp or altitude but air's DOES

That's what MAF sensor is for

So if you drive between seal level and say 2,000ft elevation and outside temp stays between 45 to 70 degF then MAF won't do much, computer can do the math just fine

BUT...............MAF only samples about 10% of the incoming air, so if it IS OFF even by 1%, thats a 10% error at the computer so that CAN make a difference
 
  #17  
Old 01-30-2019
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
No, engine should keep running, on MOST cars, I see this test posted now and then and its just not universal

It has to do with the software in the computer, the software writer can tell computer to shut off fuel injectors if MAF signal suddenly stops, or NOT, or any other sensor
But it doesn't "prove" anything either way, lol.

You can usually start ANY engine with MAF sensor already disconnected, and it should run OK, might not be great but OK

MAF sensor measures the WEIGHT of the in coming air
Cold air is heavier than warm air, i.e. "hot air rises" why?, because its Lighter than colder air
Air at sea level is heavier than air at 4,000ft elevation,, i.e. thinner air the higher up you go

So air WEIGHT can be all over the map.

Air:fuel ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1 and this is a WEIGHT Ratio
14.7 POUNDS of air to 1 POUND of gasoline
14.7 grams of air to 1 gram of gasoline

This is why 200mpg carburetors and "pre-vaporizers" were and are a bunch of hooey, lol.

Gasoline's weight doesn't change much, with temp or altitude but air's DOES

That's what MAF sensor is for

So if you drive between seal level and say 2,000ft elevation and outside temp stays between 45 to 70 degF then MAF won't do much, computer can do the math just fine

BUT...............MAF only samples about 10% of the incoming air, so if it IS OFF even by 1%, thats a 10% error at the computer so that CAN make a difference
oh very interesting I guess itís time to drive around see what happens then look into some other steps in the forum. Thank you Im actually learning a lot from this forum.
 
  #18  
Old 01-31-2019
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If this is an 'engine burning more gas than it should' issue it seems you need to look at some live fuel trim data. At idle and at cruise. Otherwise I think you'll be poking around this thing for ever throwing parts at it. The maf clean you just did could have made an small improvement and you could never know it. On the other hand, if the engine is not running rich (burn more gas than it should), seems the next logical issue would be a leak.
 
  #19  
Old 01-31-2019
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Yes, +1, kenhigg makes a good point

If engine is actually burning the fuel then CATs will run HOT
Spark plug tips will be a darker brown
Exhaust will smell rich in most cases, after warm up, all cold engines run rich, choke mode

If this is not happening then you are leaking the fuel out.
 
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