Help with no spark.
 

I got a 93' ranger 2.3 distributerless.
The truck turned off on me on the road. Tested for spark and didn't have any. I tested the fuel system just incase. I tried jumper fluid, tested for fuel pressure, tested for continuity and relay evey thing was working.

Back to the no spark. I tested the harness for both coils and they had 12v. I tested primary and secondary resistance and based on the Haynes manual i have, they were both good. I understand that the spark plugs on the right fire first so i used a test light for spark and nothing.

I replace the front coil even though the ohm meter read it was good just incase the reading was not suffient and still no spark from the new coil.

I moved on to the ICM. I tested positive and negative wire with a test light. Cranking it caused the light to go from on to off up until a couple seconds after i stopped cranking on both positive and negative. It didn't flicker the light just turn on as i tuched the wire and turned off as i cranked it.

I had no helper for some of the test and decided to add a temporary switch from the ignition switch( add the sidewall next to battery) to battery positive so i could crank it while looking at the test light. I mentioned this cause during a second test of the ICM harness positive and negative i got a different result as i cranked it. In this case the test light didn't turned off as i cranked and remained on, it just dimmed a bit.

I took the ICM to AutoZone to have it tested and it came back that it was working but I'm not sure how much i can trust them. I saw a video of doing a bypass to test ICM by connecting a test light to battery positive and to the Pip and then cranking the vehicle, as i understand it the PIP signal is what causes the coil to spark. This didn't work.

So far i know my next step is either the ignition switch at the steering wheel or the Crank position sensor. The issue is we replaced the Crank position sensor due to a previous crank no start and did the timing. We did the timing twice cause me and my friend are a bit perfectionists just incase we messed up the first time. The truck ran fine for a couple of month till now and now I'm stuck and don't what else to check or if the ICM is faulty or not.

Welcome to the forum

You have a separate spark system on your engine, engine computer is not involved with start up spark, only the crank sensor, ICM and coil packs are involved

You have a Hall Effect Crank sensor in a 1993 2.3l Ranger(1989-1994)
It gets 12v with key on
As the crank spins the Hall Effect sensor should pulse 12v on and off on its signal wire, Dark Blue wire on the ICM, PIP signal
This is the timing signal used by ICM to start spark, its passed to the computer for fuel injector timing

You can pull any spark plug after cranking engine to see if its TIP is WET with fuel, if so crank sensor is working, computer is getting PIP timing pulse, DRY tip, no pulse
Dry tip can mean crank sensor OR ICM issue

The ICM needs to be grounded to work, this ground is also used by the Crank Sensor, not uncommon for ICM's 3 bolts to rust and cause a No Ground situation

I would test if you are seeing the 12v on/off pulse from crank sensor

Yes, 1993 may still have a "spark inhibitor" on Driver's side spark plugs/coil pack, it only allows passenger side coil pack to work when cranking engine over, this was done to provide higher voltage spark for cold starts

Thank you i heard of the hall effect but didn't know what to do with the information. I will test it soon and get back to you.

Hall Effect uses a sensor and magnet, on the crank is a metal disc with a "Vane" that spins with crank rotation, this Vane setup turns the 12v on and off as it spins passed the sensor, ICM uses that to determine when #1 is at TDC so it can spark each cylinder at the right time

When you installed the last one you will remember using "the tool" to set the sensor height so the rotating vane disc doesn't touch it, but can spin inside it to initiate the 12v pulses

Hi Ron.

When i use a 12v test light on the dark blue PIP signal wire the light stayed off both key off and on.
i accidentally touched the pin i was using to the engine block and the light came on. I figure this means it wasn't grounded so i added a black alligator clip from the pin to an intake manifold bolt.

Light was on key off but I'm guessing that's because it was grounded and the test light was touching the alligator clip. On key on position the light stayed on and i heard the fuel pump priming and relays click.

Once i cranked the engine the light dimmed but stayed on and didn't flicker. I checked both the right spark plug #1 and left #1 and both were bone dried. I rechecked fuel by pressing on the valve and fuel squirted every where so that's still good.

Some things to note. The ICM was replaced before along side the Crank sensor and we added multiple grounds to it. The 3 bolts were replaced so they were not rusty but i guessing those grounds were bad and i think the bolts are not grounding ICM to the engine block.

It reads like something has happened to Crank sensor or its wires, so no PIP, so no spark and no fuel injectors

Try testing PIP but Hand Crank the engine
I think its a 24mm socket for the crank pulley bolt
Key on
Meter Grounded
Meter on dark Blue wire
Turn the engine, you can pull some spark plugs to make it easier to turn
Should see 12v off and then on, as the window passes by the sensor

If no change replace crank sensor with its wiring

There is also a CID signal from crank sensor, grey wire on the ICM
Test it the same way
Meter grounded
Meter on Grey wire
Turn the engine by hand
Should see 12v on and off same as PIP signal
If not crank sensor is bad

If PIP and CID both show 12v on and off then replace ICM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...d777133c98.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...f1cb06a44b.jpgSo i turned the engine manually and tested the PIP and CID. It didn't have a flicker. I didn't have my volt meter at the moment and just used a light. I removed the sensor and it looks like it had friction burn and it looks like the middle piece is missing.

That would be the issue, check the crank "wheel" by turning the engine two full turns after installing the new sensor to make sure it can't hit the sensor

Were the screws tight on the old one?

Yes they were tight and the original ones that came with the truck when we bought it was good too. We might have installed it wrong but it lasted months like this. The crank wheel might be bent but i don't know how it could have happened. More than likely we messed up.