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  #1  
Old 01-23-2010
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HELP!!!! Starting Problem

I have a 2001 3.0 L Ranger Edge. Whenever I try to start it, it always takes 3-4 seconds and will finally turn over. Sometimes it lags a little when trying to turn over and pushing the gas doesn't seem to help. Once it's started though, it drives perfectly and I have no problems (no check engine light). When I have a full tank of gas it starts a lot easier than when it is empty (as weird as that may seem). I've already replaced the starter, battery, fuel filter, and engine coolant temperature sensor. Also, I can hear the pump kick on when I put it in the on position and the truck drives fine, which makes me think the fuel pump is ok. Any help is appreciated. I'm starting to go crazy and if my truck had a stomach, I'd probably punch him in it for being such a bastard.
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Old 01-23-2010
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how many miles are on it? may be time for a tune up?
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Old 01-23-2010
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if you cycle the key 3-4 times will the cranking period be shorter? could have a bad drainback valve on the pump
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Old 01-23-2010
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
if you cycle the key 3-4 times will the cranking period be shorter? could have a bad drainback valve on the pump
I don't think he has a drainback valve that is ON the pump. Here are the tank "guts" along with an Explorer 5.0 tank "guts".

See the drainback tube and valve assembly?
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Old 01-23-2010
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wasnt sure if 2001 was returnless or not
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Old 01-23-2010
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Another pic....hope it helps!
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Old 01-23-2010
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for being a ford tech i shouldnt say this...but...if that drainback valve bit me i wouldnt know what it looked like, just know on returnless vehicles it will fail and all the fuel from the line will go back to the tank
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2010
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In this image, there are two types of return drain-backs.
Left (Ranger) tank internals: the brown plastic bracket holding a cylindrical device with a yellow wire and "flex" tubing attached to it and to a metal tube coming from the top of the internals.
Right (Explorer) tank internals: the solid metal tube that extends all the way to the bottom with an orange "spout" on the end.
Both of these have the Ford Quick-Connect nipple at the top.
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2010
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Originally Posted by 19Ranger96 View Post
how many miles are on it? may be time for a tune up?
There's 125,000 miles on it. I did a tune up about 15,000 miles ago. Changed the plugs and wires, flushed the coolant, etc.
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Old 01-24-2010
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If I cycle the key a few times it does seem to help. I read somewhere that if that's the case, it might have something to do with fuel pressure?
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  #11  
Old 01-27-2010
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Does your truck shutter or shake at all once you get it going? I've been having the same problem with mine for a month now. Cycling does seem to help mine as well but I can tell the power is just not there anymore once I'm driving. Just recently I've had to give it gas when I start to prevent it from shutting off. I'm probably gonna be changing the fuel pump this weekend
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Old 01-27-2010
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does it crank and get the motor spinning full speed right away, or does it kinda lug for 3 or 4 turns, then pick up... that's how i interpret your description...

if that is the situation, i would put $20 on the fact that it's your battery ground
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Old 01-27-2010
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ya i def say battery ground
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2010
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I'll check the battery ground. Let you guys know what happened. Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 01-28-2010
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you gotta answer these questions joe... is it slow to crank for a few turns then kicks over full speed or does it kick over full speed, but doesn't catch? both could be interpreted from what you said in your first post...

there is also more things to check than just to make sure if it's connected...
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Old 01-29-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
does it crank and get the motor spinning full speed right away, or does it kinda lug for 3 or 4 turns, then pick up... that's how i interpret your description...

if that is the situation, i would put $20 on the fact that it's your battery ground
It lugs 3 or 4 turns on a good day and seems to hesitate when turning over. It doesn't get the motor spinning full speed right away. It seems to be getting worse (based on the past few weeks). Lately it's been sputtering a bit as it's trying to turn over. It always starts eventually and subsequently runs perfectly. I checked out the battery ground. Surprisingly the wires and contacts seem cleaned. No fraying, splitting or corrosion. Took them off the ground anyways and cleaned the crap out of them but it didn't help.
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Old 01-29-2010
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Originally Posted by NORML Joe View Post
Does your truck shutter or shake at all once you get it going? I've been having the same problem with mine for a month now. Cycling does seem to help mine as well but I can tell the power is just not there anymore once I'm driving. Just recently I've had to give it gas when I start to prevent it from shutting off. I'm probably gonna be changing the fuel pump this weekend
It does shutter a bit as it's trying to turn over but giving it some gas then doesn't help me any. Once it turns over it's seems perfect. I haven't noticed any great loss in power other than that accompanied with a truck that's about ten years old.
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Old 01-29-2010
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i can almost guarantee that it is your ground... i had that exact problem with my mustang, it got progressivly worse and worse, and eventually it died on me driving down the road... when it did, i was sitting there, and it would power my head unit and dash lights, but then the battery would go dead, and everything turned off if i tried to start it... turned out it was where the ground connected to the block, the bolt was unthreaded about 1/2 an inch, and had been arcing and gotten glazed over...

follow your battery ground away from the battery, anywhere it makes connection to ANYTHING, take it off, clean it with baking soda and water, and scrape it with something, or wire brush it, and put it all back together, i suggest using di-electric grease, and make sure it's tight, i am not sure what your truck's ground is like, but i know my f-150's went away from the battery, and had a clam around a bare section of the wire, and that clamp went to the frame, the wire continued along to a ring connector which was bolted to the side of the block... where as my mustang (both of which were 89) came off the battery directly to the bolt on the block... i assume your truck will have one of those 2 systems... just make sure EVERYTHING is clean, not just the battery terminal...

if this is not the case... a bad positive terminal COULD potentially cause the same symptoms, logically atleast... check that... there should be a big wire going to a selonoid type deal, the selinoid may be on the starter it's self... if it is not, and the selinoid is on the fender or something (like all the older vehicles) there will be another big wire, roughly the same size, coming off the other side, going to your starter, so you've got 4 connections to check there, 1 at the battery, 2 at the selinoid, and 1 at the starter
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2010
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Just wanted to put this update on here in case any one was looking and had the same problem. Took the truck to a mechanic and told him to check the fuel pump. He checked and found that there was excess fuel pressure. In fact, he said if was 10 psi more than the max. I got lucky no other damage was done. Told him to replace the fuel pump/regulator assembly. 650 bucks later, truck starts like it's brand new.
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