Hualling Crap
 

So i know my manual say that the 5-speed truck will tow less than the same truck with an auto. How true is this? I read somewhere that ford lowered the rating for waranty purposes. I do have a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch. Could i tow more? Not much more though. Im asking cuz a have a 1993 RX7 that weighs in at 2800lbs plus the weight of a dual axle trailer. Not sure what the trailer weighs. Do u think my truck would be ok when towing this much weight? And would i need trailer brakes for that much weight and for trailer brakes, do i need to have a controller? Thanx in advance for the help.

well thats prob close to 4000lbs... since you have the 4.0 it might be okay as long as you have a frame mounted hitch and not just the bumper

i had 25 sheets of plywood in my bed last week, it was fine

this is the hitch i was going to buy

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...h3064&GO=GO%21

what about trailer brakes. would i need the controller or can u run them without out it. sorry im new to towing

Yeah you would need a brake controller. Unless your trailer has surge brakes but I know they are illegal in a lot of states now.

cool more money. i think i might just get the 1 day pass and drive it down to the shop. i want to sell the truck soon band 143 for a hitch is no biggy but if i have to get a brake controller and stuff, i dont think ill do it.

well. i guess im going to have to invest the money. by the time i am able to buy a new truck it will be like next year and i still have to fix a few things on my rx7 and then find a buyer. all well. hitch and brake controller here i come

what would i need electrical wise for towing. my truck has a 4 pin harness in the back and thats it. im want to install a trailer brake controller. would i need a different harness for that?

bump

How far are you going to tow it? I towed a Mustang on a double axle trailer with no brakes a for a buddy who didn't have tags a couple years ago and my truck did fine. 98 3.0 regular cab. If you are going to do it all the time you should probably get all that extra stuff but if you are just doing it once or twice I bet you would be okay if you take it easy.

Your brakes will fail before your engine or trans so opt for the trailer brake, not sure on the wiring harness required though. I towed a 3500 lb bobcat trailer around and the rear leafs got a workout, I also had about 2300 lbs in the bed (concrete pavers) and locked up my rear drums braking down a hill. It was an erie feeling dragging my rear tires down the hill while my front brakes struggled to stop me.

im towing it maybe 30 miles. id rather go ahead and get the controller in so i dont reck both of my cars at the same time. thanx for all your help guys

I took my '94 S-10 4.3 with trailer package and loaded my '03 Victory motorcycle in the back on the lift in the truck. Truck had coil over shocks that I installed years before. I then rented a Class 2 dual axle U-haul trailer that I oloaded to the roof with furniture and office equipment and drove to FL using only the bumper ball hitch and no trailer brakes. When I got to FL my phone rang and my brother yells, "What the $%^& did you just do?" I laughed and said all went well.
I think for 30 miles you would be fine just make sure you have no steep hills to go up or down and might have to stop on for a redlight or something. If so find a route without hills if possible.
Did you check to see if you could rent a trailer for car moving from anywhere near by? Do you have a friend that races stock cars and could move it for you?

i have a friend with a dual axle trailer and a full size pickup. i was going to have him tow me but i wanted to try myself. i think im going to have him do it. if my truck was auto i would try it but im worried about burnning my clutch.

If you are new to towing and have the sh*ty factory clutch, you are in for a real treat, I am almost gone on my second factory clutch in 63K miles and I know how to tow and drive a stick. Good luck.......

i can drive stick really well and no i dont have the stock clutch. but i am new at towing.

what is a surge brake? :eek13:

"The hydraulic surge brake system is a totally trailer self contained braking system. It requires no interconnection of any mechanical or electrical components to the tow vehicle (other than the brake coupler itself) to provide totally automatic and proportional operation of the trailer brakes. It utilizes the inertial differential pressure created between the tow vehicle and the trailer during tow vehicle braking to create a proportional mechanical pressure which is applied to the pushrod of the brake coupler master cylinder. This results in a hydraulic output which is proportional to the braking pressure being applied to the tow vehicle, and results in a totally automatic and regulated operation of the trailer's brakes."


http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#techretro

i could see where that could fail. improper sensor readings, load shift, etc.