I dont know what to do...(opinions??) - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 11-20-2007
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I dont know what to do...(opinions??)

Im having a problem with my front tires wearing bad on the insides...they are cupping or scalloping...whatever you want to call it. I've gotten new shocks, and replaced the balljoints on one side...but its still wearing bad. Everything feels tight, except for something on the passenger wheel ( I think it might be the wheel bearing), but the other side seems to be fine but its wearing the same. The tires also have some negative camber from me lowering an inch lower than is alignable, but its wearing the exact same as it did after I got it aligned with the 2" drop.

I've got a couple options...I could raise it back to a 2" drop and have no camber, but it would still be wearing the same, but I like how it sits now (3" drop in the front). The other option is to get DJM upper and lower control arms so it wont have camber anymore, and would have fresh bushings and ball joints...basically a new front suspension after replacing the tie rod ends...problem is, I dont really have $450 to get them, so that would take me back to trying to fix the mess I have now.

However, I thought about selling my radio and amp to buy the djm arms. Put my factory radio back in, and then get a cheaper radio...(I spent 350 bucks on the radio I have now!) If I could get 200 bucks out of each, that would get me enough to get the arms.

I just dont know what to do...Any thoughts or ideas? anything.
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2007
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DJM arms and put the djm coils back it plus the eccentrics you already have installed. and it should align perfectly. What degree adjustable eccentrics do you have in there.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2007
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Im not sure what degree they are...its been awhile.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2007
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did you get an alignment after dropping it more? (i might have missed it)

even will a 3inch drop with coils the front is still alignable to a point. It shouldn't be waering like that
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottG
did you get an alignment after dropping it more? (i might have missed it)

even will a 3inch drop with coils the front is still alignable to a point. It shouldn't be waering like that
no I never got aligned since the 2" drop. I really dont want to get aligned till I find out what the problem is. It would just be a waste of 60 bucks to get it aligned and still be wearing the same.
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
no I never got aligned since the 2" drop. I really dont want to get aligned till I find out what the problem is. It would just be a waste of 60 bucks to get it aligned and still be wearing the same.
ding ding ding... we have the answer you went down 2" in the front and you are wondering why your tires are wearing bad with out an alignment... come on dude..
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2007
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
ding ding ding...

x2
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
ding ding ding... we have the answer you went down 2" in the front and you are wondering why your tires are wearing bad with out an alignment... come on dude..
if you'll re read the whole first paragraph in my original post, you'll see that it says I had it aligned after the 2" drop. The alignment was done the day after I put the drop on.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2007
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
negative camber from me lowering an inch lower than is alignable
Maybe that has something to do with it?
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W1CKY
Maybe that has something to do with it?
I doubt it because it started wearing like it is now not too long after it was aligned, and the camber was right...and that was before I lowered it more than the 2".
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  #11  
Old 11-21-2007
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Methinks you might have a bad lower control arm bushing. Their 20$ each at the dealership.

If that bushing goes soft, the bottom of the tires will move outward.. and wear the inner moreso then the outer edge..
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
if you'll re read the whole first paragraph in my original post, you'll see that it says I had it aligned after the 2" drop. The alignment was done the day after I put the drop on.
your contradicting yourself then... you say you did and didnt... so what is it...
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
no I never got aligned since the 2" drop. I really dont want to get aligned till I find out what the problem is. It would just be a waste of 60 bucks to get it aligned and still be wearing the same.
IF you went down another 1" after the 2" drop, then there is your problem....you NEED to get it aligned again after the extra 1" drop........

you can't/shouldn't do any suspension work without doing an alignment.....plain and simple.....
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
IF you went down another 1" after the 2" drop, then there is your problem....you NEED to get it aligned again after the extra 1" drop........

you can't/shouldn't do any suspension work without doing an alignment.....plain and simple.....
The problem even if he does get it aligned is that he may not get a perfect or stock alignment due to having 3 inch coils on stock arms, he might get it close to perfect with eccentrics but he will still prob have some camber.

This is why I didnt bother dropping on stock arms because the uppers are not long enough to help correct the camber. Plus it rides like poop.

And I agree with you maruice 100% anything you mess with suspension you need to get an alignment. Everytime i changed my rack on my truck I had it aligned thats 100$ a pop because it was a lowered truck and plus it came with a unlimited year to.

Mudslinger have you checked your tierods?
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
your contradicting yourself then... you say you did and didnt... so what is it...
Is anybody listening to me?? I said I had it aligned after I droped it 2" and all was good. After I drove it for a while, I began to notice the insides of the front tires wearing weird...this was way before I ever messed with the suspension anymore, or droped in another 1". Long after they started wearing weird, I dropped it another inch, and got new front shocks. I rotated the tires to see if the shocks helped (it was time to rotate them anyways), and a few thousand miles later, they are wearing EXACTLY the same as they were after it was aligned with the 2" drop.

Mark98xlt, I checked them, along with everything else, and it all "feels" tight...with the exception of what I think is the wheel bearing that has a little play in it when I push and pull on the top of the tire...BUT, thats only on the passenger side...the drivers side is tight, and its wearing the same as the passenger side.
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  #16  
Old 11-21-2007
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i would go back to the shop who did the alignment before i would have added another inch of drop. they should have a warranty on their work, even if you didnt buy a liftetime warranty.
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2007
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did they not give you a sheet with the specs the way they alligned your truck to?
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark98xlt
did they not give you a sheet with the specs the way they alligned your truck to?
no
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
no

sounds like you got ****ed.

Unless you went to the cheapest place you could find to align it then thats your fault.
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  #20  
Old 11-22-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
no I never got aligned since the 2" drop. I really dont want to get aligned till I find out what the problem is. It would just be a waste of 60 bucks to get it aligned and still be wearing the same.
Don't start buying parts because you *think* they may be the problem. Go get your alignment CHECKED! It's free here at my work & a lot of other places. They will address you with any suspension problems that you may have that would be causing you to not be able to 'hold' an alignment.

And yes, if you didn't get a print out of your specs, then you just may want to go back and make sure that they really did give you an alignment.

Brenton
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  #21  
Old 11-22-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdGe_wannabe
Don't start buying parts because you *think* they may be the problem. Go get your alignment CHECKED! It's free here at my work & a lot of other places. They will address you with any suspension problems that you may have that would be causing you to not be able to 'hold' an alignment.

And yes, if you didn't get a print out of your specs, then you just may want to go back and make sure that they really did give you an alignment.

Brenton
well, since my truck has 150k miles on it, I figure some of the suspension stuff is going to be worn. Also with the front droped 3", it will still have camber when its aligned. So, I think im going to save up for DJM arms.
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2007
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vehicles are supposed to have "x" amount of camber or negative camber. but camber out of spec wont cause cupping. now toe can cause cupping due to the fact the tire is theoretically being dragged accross the ground the tire will wear occordingly. so if you had too much negative camber and toe that was outta spec you could cause coupping and abnormal wear on the insides or the tires. cupping can also be caused by bad suspention componaints or outof balance wheels, due to the fact the tire is either bouncing around, cause its outta balence or if you have a bad ball joint or wheel bearing the tire is wobbling around and causeing an incorecct tire contact pattern. so try this.. jack up the vehicle fron the lower controll arm. put a jack stand under the frame just for safty but the weight needs to be on the arm, just jack it up enough to take a pry bar if you have one or something eles that can be used for leverage.. and put it under the tire and lift gently this is how to check ball joints if you jack the vehicle up from the frame with the suspention drooped it puts pressure on the ball joints and you wont even know they are bad. when you lift up the tire have a friend check to see if the ball joint moves, it should have very very little to no play, if they are really bad you can try wobbling the tire from the 12 oclock and 6 oclock positions.. to check tie rod ends and sterring rack its the 3 o clock and 9 oclock..

but either way your going to need to get an allignment..

JOSH
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  #23  
Old 11-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06fx4 L2
vehicles are supposed to have "x" amount of camber or negative camber. but camber out of spec wont cause cupping. now toe can cause cupping due to the fact the tire is theoretically being dragged accross the ground the tire will wear occordingly. so if you had too much negative camber and toe that was outta spec you could cause coupping and abnormal wear on the insides or the tires. cupping can also be caused by bad suspention componaints or outof balance wheels, due to the fact the tire is either bouncing around, cause its outta balence or if you have a bad ball joint or wheel bearing the tire is wobbling around and causeing an incorecct tire contact pattern. so try this.. jack up the vehicle fron the lower controll arm. put a jack stand under the frame just for safty but the weight needs to be on the arm, just jack it up enough to take a pry bar if you have one or something eles that can be used for leverage.. and put it under the tire and lift gently this is how to check ball joints if you jack the vehicle up from the frame with the suspention drooped it puts pressure on the ball joints and you wont even know they are bad. when you lift up the tire have a friend check to see if the ball joint moves, it should have very very little to no play, if they are really bad you can try wobbling the tire from the 12 oclock and 6 oclock positions.. to check tie rod ends and sterring rack its the 3 o clock and 9 oclock..

but either way your going to need to get an allignment..

JOSH
I think I'll try that...thanks.
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2007
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no problem

did you have any luck?

JOSH
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2007
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I haven't checked yet. I've been busy shaving my tailgate.
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