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  #1  
Old 10-27-2010
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Issue with brakes

Hi gents...

It's been almost 3 months since I've posted

I have an 02 Ranger XLT w/FX4 package. 5-speed, 4.0

I have a slight issue with my brakes. During just normal driving, everything is ok.

If I'm going really slowly, they are ok as well - until I try to turn the wheel. Then it feels and sounds like the ABS is kicking in.

It's the absolute most annoying thing when I'm trying to pull into a parking spot.

I can pull into the parking spot ok but then the last 2 or 3 mph, it feels/sounds like the ABS.

No check engine light, no !Brake light.... nothing.

This started happening before, then it went away for ahile after I replaced the rear wheel cylinders. Now it's back.

Any suggestion? Thanks.
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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That happened to me. Tire ripped off the mudflap/bracket. Have a friend watch the tires while turning and driving.
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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interesting. with some rangers people complain of that when it is wet out the brakes are overly sensitive at low speeds. i think it only for 98-00s though.
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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This issue has popped up at least twice a month for the past few years.
ABS kicking in at ~5 mph .
The problem stems from the distance between the front ABS sensors and the ring in the rotor assembly. Loose / worn wheel bearings are generally the culprit.
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
interesting. with some rangers people complain of that when it is wet out the brakes are overly sensitive at low speeds. i think it only for 98-00s though.
my 03 does that...
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
my 03 does that...
doesn't surprise me. it's not like they changed at all between the years. just bigger rotors.

i can't remember if it is a problem with the rear drums (like water collecting between the drums and the shoes) or with the disks.

not sure. i don't really notice but my brakes have been f'ed up since I bought the truck. siezed p-brake cable, then back wheel cylinders, then warped rotors, then my ABS as out, now I have air in my lines. i gave up on them honestly.

plus the 4x4s and the 4WABS trucks have more issues than the RABS and 2WD trucks.
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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i think i read on here somewhere about a simular issue turned out to be a speed sensor?
 
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Old 10-27-2010
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Originally Posted by OTRtech
This issue has popped up at least twice a month for the past few years.
ABS kicking in at ~5 mph .
The problem stems from the distance between the front ABS sensors and the ring in the rotor assembly. Loose / worn wheel bearings are generally the culprit.

That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.

Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?

I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.

While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
 
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Old 10-28-2010
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
doesn't surprise me. it's not like they changed at all between the years. just bigger rotors.

i can't remember if it is a problem with the rear drums (like water collecting between the drums and the shoes) or with the disks.
its the drums because when its wet and my truck is parked for a long time my e brake will stick and i have to back up a little and go forward to get it to release
 
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Old 10-28-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
its the drums because when its wet and my truck is parked for a long time my e brake will stick and i have to back up a little and go forward to get it to release

This has happened to me, as well. Albeit it's rare and it happens more in freezing weather.
 
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Old 10-28-2010
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Originally Posted by Decaff2007
That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.

Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?

I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.

While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
You are 4x4 so you have torsion bars.

I recommend getting everything from Rockauto.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN on Moog ball joints. They have a lifetime warranty so you only buy them once. Plus go on retailmenot and you can get another 5% off. Shipping is also reasonable.

To check if the bearing is bad jack up the tire and spin it. If it makes a squalling or whooping sound it is bad. Or if the wheel moves around side to side that can also means its bad. But bad inner ties and ball joints can also cause the tires to move around so.....
 
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Old 10-28-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
its the drums because when its wet and my truck is parked for a long time my e brake will stick and i have to back up a little and go forward to get it to release
That makes sense. So switching to disks will solve the problem

Good to know
 
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Old 11-03-2010
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
You are 4x4 so you have torsion bars.

I recommend getting everything from Rockauto.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN on Moog ball joints. They have a lifetime warranty so you only buy them once. Plus go on retailmenot and you can get another 5% off. Shipping is also reasonable.

To check if the bearing is bad jack up the tire and spin it. If it makes a squalling or whooping sound it is bad. Or if the wheel moves around side to side that can also means its bad. But bad inner ties and ball joints can also cause the tires to move around so.....

Ok I gotcha on the torsion bars.

Also, yes, rockauto.com is where I buy 99% of what I need. I just bought a tie rod end for my g/f's 94 ranger from there.

Also, I went underneath tonight and checked everything I could. Ball joints are still good, as are the tie rod ends. The problem is definitely the passenger side wheel bearing. I'm going to replace both sides, as this is the norm.

Another thing, and sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but this boot is not on the fitting the way it should be. I don't know what it's called and it's hard to tell from the pic but the back of the boot is disconnected from the fitting. What's this called and how hard is it to fix?

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EDIT: I'm looking on rockauto.com and advanceautoparts.com and there are SOOOO many different parts. I cannot determine which wheel bearing I need. I know I have the 8.8 rear gear but what the hell does that have to do with the FRONT wheel bearing?
 

Last edited by Decaff2007; 11-03-2010 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Needed to add info
  #14  
Old 11-04-2010
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Originally Posted by Decaff2007
That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.

Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?

I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.

While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
classic wheel bearing noise
 
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Old 11-04-2010
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Right, ok so does anyone have a part number for this wheel bearing? There are too many to choose from. Is the bearing tapered or not?

Thanks,
RJ
 
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Old 11-04-2010
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uh dude you have to replace the whole hub...its a sealed unit
 
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Old 11-04-2010
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for the front of your truck timkin SP450201 there under: axle bearing and hub assemblys on rockauto.com not under wheel bearings

the tapered bearing are for the front on 2wd's and the nontapered one are for the rear axle's
 
  #18  
Old 11-05-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
uh dude you have to replace the whole hub...its a sealed unit
PLEASE tell me you are ******* kidding me?!!?



.....UGH.... Maybe your not. I just checked the Chilton's guide. It says to remove the whole hub and not a thing about the bearing...

I wasn't exactly happy with the price, either, but well if you want to play you have to pay
 
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Old 11-05-2010
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nope i aint kidding you...have to replace my LF soon...price aint too bad
 
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Old 11-05-2010
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price aint too too bad for them i was quoted around 200 by my local ford dealer
 
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Old 11-05-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
price aint too too bad for them i was quoted around 200 by my local ford dealer

Not surprising if you went to a dealer for the quote.

Advance auto wanted something like the $250 range.

The only reason I'm cringing at the price is because I wanted to do both at the same time. I don't have the $$ for that.

Anyway, thanks for the part number. I went ahead and ordered the hub assembly. I see that it even comes with a new sensor . This is good, and it definitely explains why my brakes are starting to act up.

LoL I also had a coupon code for 5% off so that pretty much gave me free shipping.
 
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Old 11-05-2010
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yea NAPA wanted 400 for one!..you replacing it yourself?
 
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Old 11-11-2010
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Originally Posted by djfllmn
yea NAPA wanted 400 for one!..you replacing it yourself?
Yes, indeed I am

I'm currently waiting for the damn thing to get here. This will teach me to order a part on a Saturday night and expect it here on Monday morning.....
 
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Old 11-11-2010
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Haha!! Finally here. Looks like I have my work cut out for me tomorrow...

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Old 11-14-2010
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Hmmm, ok got the new wheel bearing/hub installed. The damn noise is still there and my ABS still kicks in if I'm making a sharp left turn. I definitely need new rotors.

Maybe I should replace the other side??
 


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