Issue with brakes
#1
Issue with brakes
Hi gents...
It's been almost 3 months since I've posted
I have an 02 Ranger XLT w/FX4 package. 5-speed, 4.0
I have a slight issue with my brakes. During just normal driving, everything is ok.
If I'm going really slowly, they are ok as well - until I try to turn the wheel. Then it feels and sounds like the ABS is kicking in.
It's the absolute most annoying thing when I'm trying to pull into a parking spot.
I can pull into the parking spot ok but then the last 2 or 3 mph, it feels/sounds like the ABS.
No check engine light, no !Brake light.... nothing.
This started happening before, then it went away for ahile after I replaced the rear wheel cylinders. Now it's back.
Any suggestion? Thanks.
It's been almost 3 months since I've posted
I have an 02 Ranger XLT w/FX4 package. 5-speed, 4.0
I have a slight issue with my brakes. During just normal driving, everything is ok.
If I'm going really slowly, they are ok as well - until I try to turn the wheel. Then it feels and sounds like the ABS is kicking in.
It's the absolute most annoying thing when I'm trying to pull into a parking spot.
I can pull into the parking spot ok but then the last 2 or 3 mph, it feels/sounds like the ABS.
No check engine light, no !Brake light.... nothing.
This started happening before, then it went away for ahile after I replaced the rear wheel cylinders. Now it's back.
Any suggestion? Thanks.
#4
#5
#6
doesn't surprise me. it's not like they changed at all between the years. just bigger rotors.
i can't remember if it is a problem with the rear drums (like water collecting between the drums and the shoes) or with the disks.
not sure. i don't really notice but my brakes have been f'ed up since I bought the truck. siezed p-brake cable, then back wheel cylinders, then warped rotors, then my ABS as out, now I have air in my lines. i gave up on them honestly.
plus the 4x4s and the 4WABS trucks have more issues than the RABS and 2WD trucks.
i can't remember if it is a problem with the rear drums (like water collecting between the drums and the shoes) or with the disks.
not sure. i don't really notice but my brakes have been f'ed up since I bought the truck. siezed p-brake cable, then back wheel cylinders, then warped rotors, then my ABS as out, now I have air in my lines. i gave up on them honestly.
plus the 4x4s and the 4WABS trucks have more issues than the RABS and 2WD trucks.
#8
That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.
Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?
I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.
While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
#9
its the drums because when its wet and my truck is parked for a long time my e brake will stick and i have to back up a little and go forward to get it to release
#10
#11
That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.
Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?
I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.
While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?
I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.
While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
I recommend getting everything from Rockauto.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN on Moog ball joints. They have a lifetime warranty so you only buy them once. Plus go on retailmenot and you can get another 5% off. Shipping is also reasonable.
To check if the bearing is bad jack up the tire and spin it. If it makes a squalling or whooping sound it is bad. Or if the wheel moves around side to side that can also means its bad. But bad inner ties and ball joints can also cause the tires to move around so.....
#12
#13
You are 4x4 so you have torsion bars.
I recommend getting everything from Rockauto.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN on Moog ball joints. They have a lifetime warranty so you only buy them once. Plus go on retailmenot and you can get another 5% off. Shipping is also reasonable.
To check if the bearing is bad jack up the tire and spin it. If it makes a squalling or whooping sound it is bad. Or if the wheel moves around side to side that can also means its bad. But bad inner ties and ball joints can also cause the tires to move around so.....
I recommend getting everything from Rockauto.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN on Moog ball joints. They have a lifetime warranty so you only buy them once. Plus go on retailmenot and you can get another 5% off. Shipping is also reasonable.
To check if the bearing is bad jack up the tire and spin it. If it makes a squalling or whooping sound it is bad. Or if the wheel moves around side to side that can also means its bad. But bad inner ties and ball joints can also cause the tires to move around so.....
Ok I gotcha on the torsion bars.
Also, yes, rockauto.com is where I buy 99% of what I need. I just bought a tie rod end for my g/f's 94 ranger from there.
Also, I went underneath tonight and checked everything I could. Ball joints are still good, as are the tie rod ends. The problem is definitely the passenger side wheel bearing. I'm going to replace both sides, as this is the norm.
Another thing, and sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but this boot is not on the fitting the way it should be. I don't know what it's called and it's hard to tell from the pic but the back of the boot is disconnected from the fitting. What's this called and how hard is it to fix?
EDIT: I'm looking on rockauto.com and advanceautoparts.com and there are SOOOO many different parts. I cannot determine which wheel bearing I need. I know I have the 8.8 rear gear but what the hell does that have to do with the FRONT wheel bearing?
Last edited by Decaff2007; 11-03-2010 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Needed to add info
#14
That would explain A LOT!! I'm also getting a "squealing" noise, sometimes at takeoff after sitting for a day or two, sometimes after a long trip and then stop and go traffic. I'm also getting a "wub - wub - wub" sound and it's frequency is speed dependent. This all seems to be coming from the same general area on the front end, more specifically the drivers side.
Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?
I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.
While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
Isn't the test for a wheel bearing to jack the tire up and try to move it side to side (as if trying to steer it)?
I should definitely take a look back there tomorrow night and see what I find.
While I'm at it, I should see if I have torsion bars or coil overs up front. I'm in the market for new shocks, ball joints, and tie rod ends, as well.
#17
#18
PLEASE tell me you are ******* kidding me?!!?
.....UGH.... Maybe your not. I just checked the Chilton's guide. It says to remove the whole hub and not a thing about the bearing...
I wasn't exactly happy with the price, either, but well if you want to play you have to pay
.....UGH.... Maybe your not. I just checked the Chilton's guide. It says to remove the whole hub and not a thing about the bearing...
I wasn't exactly happy with the price, either, but well if you want to play you have to pay
#21
Not surprising if you went to a dealer for the quote.
Advance auto wanted something like the $250 range.
The only reason I'm cringing at the price is because I wanted to do both at the same time. I don't have the $$ for that.
Anyway, thanks for the part number. I went ahead and ordered the hub assembly. I see that it even comes with a new sensor . This is good, and it definitely explains why my brakes are starting to act up.
LoL I also had a coupon code for 5% off so that pretty much gave me free shipping.
#23
#25