I broke a brake line that runs from front to back. Wondering if it's a fairly easy diy.
my truck is an 02 xlt extended cab 4x4 with 4.0
The lines running up and around the rear end look good, but all of them tucked under the frame are badly rusted. Also wondering if the inverted flute is difficult to form. Thanks.

 

You can but straight sections of brake line and bendable sections.

So your best bet is to run a new line from closest front fitting to closest back fitting.

You can do your own "flare fittings" but I don't recommend it unless you plan on doing it alot, tools are not that expensive but you need to double roll for a good fitting so need a bit of practice on disposable lines to start off, before you do YOUR lines

The straight lines can be push in(tape over the end) passed the gas tank and out the back(or front) it doesn't need to be clamped down.
Then bendable lines on each end to stock fittings
Sizes and threads can be different at each end, but you can buy adapter/couplers that will match the two together

Not an uncommon issue for Rangers, two of mine got rusted out rear brake line, between frame and gas tank of course, scary when you find that out when "trying" to stop, lol

 

Thank you, Ron.
Fortunately I noticed a bit less peddle before I left the driveway. Must have banged it replacing the shackles and brackets. Bed' coming back off...I notice quite a few places where I missed with the Por15
When I first got the truck I hired part of the work out. The biggest problem being rear brake lines that just would not bleed clean fluid. The mechanic said he had to replace a section of line and shortly after that I had to make couple of hard panic stops and it stopped straight as can be with no lockup.
Thank you for your help. What do you recommend as type of metal used on the lines? There seems to be a lot of arguing as to the best.
Dot 4 fluid ok?
One more question, the fluid resivoir ran clear dry. With the anti-lock brakes automatically bleed if I open all 4 bleeders at once and just keep adding fluid until there's no air?
Bill

 

Dot 4 has a higher boiling point than Dot 3, if Master has "use Dot 4" on it then I would use that because they may have used smaller brake pads than they should have, lol.

Dot 3 is fine for most vehicles unless, as said, manufacturer cheaped out on the front brakes and they get too HOT for Dot 3, rear brakes would never get too HOT unless there was another problem, i.e. stuck on, dragging, and then it wouldn't matter if you had Dot 3 or Dot 4

Some switch to Dot 4 if they will be towing alot, usually larger trucks not Rangers, drivers choice.

Unless you replace an ABS or 4WABS unit, so it is DRY, there is no reason to bleed it.
There is a tool/coonector that Grounds the correct Pins in the ABS with Key on, this opens the valves while bleeding to refill the by-pass lines, you can make this yourself if you get correct ABS connector at wrecking yard and re-pin it for ground wires.
ABS can't collect too much air in any case it is just short by-pass passages.

But otherwise just follow usual brake bleeding procedure, start at farthest wheel and work your way around to closest wheel to Master

 

Thank you much,Ron. I appreciate all your support.

Bill