Leaking master cylinder.
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From: MI
Leaking master cylinder.
I have a 2000 ranger. 3.0L. My master cylinder is leaking. It appears to have been leaking for a long time. I have only had the truck since summer. I am looking to replace the master cylinder but I have 4 wheel abs. Has anyone replaced their 4wheel abs master cylinder without issues? I read that air can be an issue that only the dealer can fix. I could use some tips on how to replace it without letting air into the system.
You can replace the master cylinder without issue if you pre-bled the master, the air will want to go up back into the master, if you press down brake pedal just slightly after install
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does pre-bled mean bench bleed? i also read if i keep the pedal pinned down with a depresser that it would stop the air. before and during the install. Are you saying bench bleed the new unit? and what about the pedal after install, if i don't bench bleed it it will pull air? Thank you.
Yes, bench bleed or buy it pre-bled
The air doesn't go in, it wants to get out, brake line are at 0psi unless brake pedal/master is trying to push fluid in
So when you remove the two lines from the master put a piece of tape over the ends of the lines to stop fluid flowing out, or plug them with ???, these lines go DOWN so fluid will stay in them, you can pull the lines back a bit so the ends are "up", keeping fluid in
The master, once bled, will have fluid wanting to flow OUT of the two line connections, so can't pull air in, this is a slow gravity flow of fluid
As you tighten the connections any air will come out around the threads until tight, if fluid is flowing out then all air is gone
No, I wouldn't press brake pedal to the floor, after master and 2 lines are installed you can put a slight pressure on the pedal and release a few times, and any remaining air should come up into the masters reservoir
Masters is a high point so, its not like calipers or wheel cylinders where fluid can run out and be replaced by air as it does
The air doesn't go in, it wants to get out, brake line are at 0psi unless brake pedal/master is trying to push fluid in
So when you remove the two lines from the master put a piece of tape over the ends of the lines to stop fluid flowing out, or plug them with ???, these lines go DOWN so fluid will stay in them, you can pull the lines back a bit so the ends are "up", keeping fluid in
The master, once bled, will have fluid wanting to flow OUT of the two line connections, so can't pull air in, this is a slow gravity flow of fluid
As you tighten the connections any air will come out around the threads until tight, if fluid is flowing out then all air is gone
No, I wouldn't press brake pedal to the floor, after master and 2 lines are installed you can put a slight pressure on the pedal and release a few times, and any remaining air should come up into the masters reservoir
Masters is a high point so, its not like calipers or wheel cylinders where fluid can run out and be replaced by air as it does
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 136
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From: MI
Yes, bench bleed or buy it pre-bled
The air doesn't go in, it wants to get out, brake line are at 0psi unless brake pedal/master is trying to push fluid in
So when you remove the two lines from the master put a piece of tape over the ends of the lines to stop fluid flowing out, or plug them with ???, these lines go DOWN so fluid will stay in them, you can pull the lines back a bit so the ends are "up", keeping fluid in
The master, once bled, will have fluid wanting to flow OUT of the two line connections, so can't pull air in, this is a slow gravity flow of fluid
As you tighten the connections any air will come out around the threads until tight, if fluid is flowing out then all air is gone
No, I wouldn't press brake pedal to the floor, after master and 2 lines are installed you can put a slight pressure on the pedal and release a few times, and any remaining air should come up into the masters reservoir
Masters is a high point so, its not like calipers or wheel cylinders where fluid can run out and be replaced by air as it does
The air doesn't go in, it wants to get out, brake line are at 0psi unless brake pedal/master is trying to push fluid in
So when you remove the two lines from the master put a piece of tape over the ends of the lines to stop fluid flowing out, or plug them with ???, these lines go DOWN so fluid will stay in them, you can pull the lines back a bit so the ends are "up", keeping fluid in
The master, once bled, will have fluid wanting to flow OUT of the two line connections, so can't pull air in, this is a slow gravity flow of fluid
As you tighten the connections any air will come out around the threads until tight, if fluid is flowing out then all air is gone
No, I wouldn't press brake pedal to the floor, after master and 2 lines are installed you can put a slight pressure on the pedal and release a few times, and any remaining air should come up into the masters reservoir
Masters is a high point so, its not like calipers or wheel cylinders where fluid can run out and be replaced by air as it does
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