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LED Turn Signal Problems

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Old Apr 11, 2021
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LED Turn Signal Problems

2009 Mazda b2300.

All new light assemblies and upgraded to LEDs all around.

So...
I installed the new LED bulbs for the turn signals. (They were purchased off Amazon admittedly - but they were definitely not cheap, almost $20 per bulb - advertised as no hyperflash which they live up to).

So they work fine. But with the stock ford relay it makes an almost squawking sound when I use the turn signals or hazard lights. But only when other lights are off - as soon as my headlights are on everything works as normal.

I then ordered a E27 relay hoping it would resolve the issue. I plug it in and try the hazards and signals and everything's good ! No sqwauk or nothing.
​But only for that initial test. 5 min later I decide to go out and as soon as I start the truck the relay just goes off and keeps clicking. I then turn off the truck.. clicking continues. On or off, key in or out, pulled every led bulb individually, basically tried everything and this E27 relay is just constantly going off nonstop.

So I threw the stock relay back in and again everything is fine (aside from the stupid sqwauk when I use my flashers - only when my headlights are off).

At this point im wondering if I just got a bum e27 relay ? Any thoughts ?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2021
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Yes, you got a bad relay is my guess but.....................

Still can't figure out the noise stock flasher makes, and why turning on heads lights would matter, there is no connection between Park/head lights and turn lights, except may be the grounds for the tail light bulbs, Park and turn/brake are the same bulb but 2 filaments and shared a ground

Do the 4-ways also make the noise when light switch is off and goes away when light switch is on?

 
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Old Apr 11, 2021
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Originally Posted by RonD
Yes, you got a bad relay is my guess but.....................

Still can't figure out the noise stock flasher makes, and why turning on heads lights would matter, there is no connection between Park/head lights and turn lights, except may be the grounds for the tail light bulbs, Park and turn/brake are the same bulb but 2 filaments and shared a ground

Do the 4-ways also make the noise when light switch is off and goes away when light switch is on?
Hey Ron.
Yes the hazards also behave the same way. Make the noise when on, and lights are off. But as soon as the lights are on everythings business as usual.

I took my multimeter and ohm tested both relays. Got a resistance reading off the stock one - but nothing off the new e27. Which is weird? Because besides constantly clicking it still functions.

I'll order another relay and see what happens and let you know how it turns out.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2021
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EP27 is electronic timer flasher, so probably wouldn't OHM test
It uses a timer chip not a thermal bi-metal mechanical part to flash the lights


 
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Old Apr 12, 2021
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Originally Posted by RonD
EP27 is electronic timer flasher, so probably wouldn't OHM test
It uses a timer chip not a thermal bi-metal mechanical part to flash the lights
Hmmm lol. Well that's why I posted here. I'm good at most things, unfortunately electricity is not one of them 😅.
Regardless I the sellar is sending me another Relay which should be here Wednesday as after describing the situation to them they just told me they sent a new one out right away.
I manage to find 2 other threads of the same problem. One apparently was the turn signal switch itself being bad (which I doubt as with the stock Relay everything works fine except for the noise when blinking), and the other was that the Ep27 was constantly on and clicking like mine when the guy had his halogen bulbs in - but once he switched in his LEDs everything was fine.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2021
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Originally Posted by RonD
EP27 is electronic timer flasher, so probably wouldn't OHM test
It uses a timer chip not a thermal bi-metal mechanical part to flash the lights
Hey Ron, yep it was a bad relay. Got a new one today works like a charm. Thanks again for the replies... goddamn stupid cheap parts.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2021
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Glad its working

Yes, WE are the ones to blame for that, lol

New used to mean "tested and working", i.e. a Quality control Department, but that means "people" have to test things, and that is VERY EXPENSIVE these days, even overseas labor cost is "not what it used to be", lol, all the darn news articles about child labor and "living wages"

So its cheaper(but less jobs), and WE LIKE CHEAPER, to just make parts and send then out, then add a warranty, let the BUYER test the parts and let THEM swap it out if it doesn't work

Its THE reason Motorcraft parts are so expensive, no child labor, good working conditions and wages, plus parts tested before being shipped
But for Ford this is actually less "expensive" than bad publicity and major recalls for a failed batch of parts, there are still recalls just way less
 
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