More wheel/lug trouble, need help. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 08-25-2009
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More wheel/lug trouble, need help.

If you want to get to the point, scroll to the bottom of the post...

So I had some 17" wheels on the back because I didnt want to deal with the 15"s after some tire trouble. Yesterday I went and bought new tires for the 15"s because I decided Im just going to sell the 17"s. I was expecting togo to the shop, get new tires, mounted and balanced and be gone with the 17"s in the bed. It just cant be that easy.

First, I give them the key for the lugs in the back because the 17"s need locking lugs. Using an impact wrench, he strips the key. So They run up the street and buy me a new one.

Then they go to the driver's side and there is one that wont budge. After everyone in the shop and I give it a try, they decide that I need to go to the shop up the street and have them remove it. So I loaded the 15"s up in the bed and went down the street.

When I got there I had to wait about an hour for them to finish the leafsprings on a trailer. After they got done, I pulled the truck in and they steady worked on getting that lugnut off for two and a half hours (i watched) before I agreed to let them cut it off. So the locking lugs are gone...never again am I going to use them.


M question is...what is the thing called that they melted off with the torch and how would i go about replacing it?notice how i can only put 4 outta 5 on? Also, how bad is it to drive with just 4 outta 5?

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Old 08-25-2009
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wheel (lugnut) stud... you will need to replace it..
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Old 08-25-2009
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I want to say that you can replace the wheel stud, but I can't remember if you have to remove the axle shaft to do that or not.
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Old 08-25-2009
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That's called a "wheel stud". To replace that you're going to have to remove the differential cover and drain the fluid. After that pull the wheel off and remove the brake drum. Push the axle in and you'll be able to pull the c-clip out. Then you can slide the axle out and pound a new one in. Make sure the splines line up on the new stud you get with the axle flange. Slide the axle back into the housing and put the c-clip back on. Pull the axle back out a bit so the c-clip doesn't fall off. Put the diff cover back on and refill with gear oil. Put the drum and wheel back on and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs.

I've never replaced them on my Ranger but you may be able to just remove the wheel and brake drum and pound the old one out and the new one in. I don't know if you have enough room to do that though. See if you have enough room first, if not, do it the way I described above.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Thanks fellas. The reason I was asking if I could drive it like that is because I wont have the cash to do it until middle of september. Doesnt seem to ride funny. Think Imma try, and if I cause more damage, ill just bite the bullet. At least I work at night so the roads wont be populated when im driving. Ya think they will have a write up on how to do it in the repair book? Guess Ill go to my buddy's and look at his book.
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Old 08-25-2009
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i drove my grand prix missing one wheel stud on the front for about a month before i got around to fixing it. i snapped it when i was taking off my wheels. not sure how it works with drum brakes, but on a disc break setup you just need to pound out the old stud and then beat in the new one. screw drum brakes. lol
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Old 08-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coleosis85 View Post
Thanks fellas. The reason I was asking if I could drive it like that is because I wont have the cash to do it until middle of september. Doesnt seem to ride funny. Think Imma try, and if I cause more damage, ill just bite the bullet. At least I work at night so the roads wont be populated when im driving. Ya think they will have a write up on how to do it in the repair book? Guess Ill go to my buddy's and look at his book.
I just told you how to do it...
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
I just told you how to do it...
Im gonna need the in depth explination in front of me because im not the smartest, and im gonna be doing it all by myself (because both my mechanic friends left for college). Thanks for the help, I have a good idea of how to do it now....Just need to look up how to remove the casing and putting fluid back in and whatnot.
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Old 08-25-2009
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you don't have to pull the axle. the way we do them at work is knock the old stud out with a hammer, put the new one through the back, and sacrificing a lug nut, suck the stud through with an impact. i know it's not by the book, but it works.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by quicksilver2001 View Post
you don't have to pull the axle. the way we do them at work is knock the old stud out with a hammer, put the new one through the back, and sacrificing a lug nut, suck the stud through with an impact. i know it's not by the book, but it works.


That's how I did one ny my Ranger. I had to use washers on the outside to get the stud to seat, but it certainly can be done w/o pulling the shaft.

I actually replaced it when some morons at a tire shop did the same thing with my old locking lugs.....I too will never use them again.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by quicksilver2001 View Post
you don't have to pull the axle. the way we do them at work is knock the old stud out with a hammer, put the new one through the back, and sacrificing a lug nut, suck the stud through with an impact. i know it's not by the book, but it works.
If that's what you do at work I hope you get shut down. I'm sick of having **** to work on that comes from guys like you doing it the half *** way. If you do it properly the first time you won't have to deal with a come back, and your customers will be loyal. Maybe I just like procedure and doing it right, who the hell knows. We had a guy run a lug nut on this guys brand new Kia and he messed up the threads on the stud because he over tightened them. That's why it's important to know specs for everything.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by Coleosis85 View Post
Im gonna need the in depth explination in front of me because im not the smartest, and im gonna be doing it all by myself (because both my mechanic friends left for college). Thanks for the help, I have a good idea of how to do it now....Just need to look up how to remove the casing and putting fluid back in and whatnot.
If you've never done it before I would suggest doing it the right way. Not only will you gain better mechanical skills, you also won't half *** the stuff you work on.

If you'd rather do it the shade tree way that's up to you. Yes it'll save you money and it has a good chance of working, but you're not going to learn how to disassemble things properly and how to put them back together...

Just my .02.
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Old 08-25-2009
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you will NOT need to remove the axle shaft. its easy and takes about 15 minutes to do. and that time includes a smoke/beer break.
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Old 08-25-2009
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If you're worried about stretched studs and don't want to take the shaft out, get a stud installer. I know Lisle makes one, and beleive Mac also does.....

Here it is...

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3D20%26um%3D1


http://www.mactools.com/SearchResult...stud+installer
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
If you've never done it before I would suggest doing it the right way. Not only will you gain better mechanical skills, you also won't half *** the stuff you work on.

If you'd rather do it the shade tree way that's up to you. Yes it'll save you money and it has a good chance of working, but you're not going to learn how to disassemble things properly and how to put them back together...

Just my .02.
I totally agree with you...thats why imma pick up the book from my friend's house....So I am sure I do it right the first time. If I dont have a step by step I tend to **** stuff up. Dont want totake it to a shop because I know they will half *** everything.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by edgeman4.0 View Post
you will NOT need to remove the axle shaft. its easy and takes about 15 minutes to do. and that time includes a smoke/beer break.
You may not need to remove the axle shaft, but pulling the SOB through with a lug on the threads isn't the correct way either. Pulling it through like that is asking for trouble and may stretch the threads or cause the same issues he had in the first place.

Teaching someone who isn't as mechnically inclined as you the short-cut to something isn't the best thing to do IMO.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
If that's what you do at work I hope you get shut down. I'm sick of having **** to work on that comes from guys like you doing it the half *** way. If you do it properly the first time you won't have to deal with a come back, and your customers will be loyal. Maybe I just like procedure and doing it right, who the hell knows. We had a guy run a lug nut on this guys brand new Kia and he messed up the threads on the stud because he over tightened them. That's why it's important to know specs for everything.
how is it half-*** if it works? i've NEVER had a stud come back or get messed up because of the way i install it. and i work for a fleet so my **** would never make it to you anyway. i know how to set up diff's, change axles etc. do it almost every day. i'm not, however, gonna pull some axles just to change a f-ing stud. please do not insult the way i do things in my profession. i do things RIGHT. its just not by the book all the time, and where i work, they want **** done quick, and get the vehicle back out on the road. 99% of our work is not done by the book....
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Old 08-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
If that's what you do at work I hope you get shut down. I'm sick of having **** to work on that comes from guys like you doing it the half *** way. If you do it properly the first time you won't have to deal with a come back, and your customers will be loyal. Maybe I just like procedure and doing it right, who the hell knows. We had a guy run a lug nut on this guys brand new Kia and he messed up the threads on the stud because he over tightened them. That's why it's important to know specs for everything.
The studs on my driver rear were changed two years ago with the axle still in the truck. They are still holing my wheel just fine The reason they took a crap is because I forgot to torque down the lug nuts when I was done working on my truck. The point is that just because you choose to do more to fix the same problem doesn't mean yours is the right way.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by quicksilver2001 View Post
how is it half-*** if it works? i've NEVER had a stud come back or get messed up because of the way i install it. and i work for a fleet so my **** would never make it to you anyway. i know how to set up diff's, change axles etc. do it almost every day. i'm not, however, gonna pull some axles just to change a f-ing stud. please do not insult the way i do things in my profession. i do things RIGHT. its just not by the book all the time, and where i work, they want **** done quick, and get the vehicle back out on the road. 99% of our work is not done by the book....
Oh trust me I know. That's the only way some guys make money because they are rushed to get it out the door to turn a profit.

Like I said before, teaching this guy who isn't as mechanically inclined as you the short cut isn't going to really help him. He's not really in a rush, and he's not getting paid to do it. See where i'm coming from? I didn't mean to insult you, you have to make the money somehow, I know how it is. Thankfully I don't get rushed and I have the chance to take it slow and be meticulous.
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by whippersnapper02 View Post
The studs on my driver rear were changed two years ago with the axle still in the truck. They are still holing my wheel just fine The reason they took a crap is because I forgot to torque down the lug nuts when I was done working on my truck. The point is that just because you choose to do more to fix the same problem doesn't mean yours is the right way.
By the way, I never said my way was the correct way either. He said he was going to do it per the books instructions for his truck...
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Old 08-25-2009
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Oh trust me I know. That's the only way some guys make money because they are rushed to get it out the door to turn a profit.

Like I said before, teaching this guy who isn't as mechanically inclined as you the short cut isn't going to really help him. He's not really in a rush, and he's not getting paid to do it. See where i'm coming from? I didn't mean to insult you, you have to make the money somehow, I know how it is. Thankfully I don't get rushed and I have the chance to take it slow and be meticulous.
it's cool. we're in different environments. and yes, to the OP, if you've never been in a diff. take a little time to see how the rear end comes apart. you'll learn something.
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Old 08-25-2009
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it's cool. we're in different environments. and yes, to the OP, if you've never been in a diff. take a little time to see how the rear end comes apart. you'll learn something.
Definately. The biggest thing i've had to do brakes on so far was a Dually F-350. I never realized how heavy the front's were until I picked them up out of the box. It's amazing how they are attached.
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2009
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Now it's shaking when i get on the highway...I took it back to the tireshop because it was shaking so bad it felt like a wheel was gonna fly off...They rebalanced the wheels after arguing with me...realized that they did a **** job last time and said "a couple weights musta fell off." So now the shaking is minor when i hit about 65-70mph.


You think the missing stud is causing the shaking?...waiting for my bro to get home so i can borrow $20 to get them balanced at a shop that I trust and their techs dont start a sentence in english and finish in spanish.


IM GETTING SO ****ING FRUSTRATED WITH WHEELS AND TIRES IMMA ABOUT TO ****ING KILL SOMEONE!
or buy some tracks.
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Old 08-26-2009
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It shouldn't do. My buddy's missing a stud on his ranger and has no problems. Possibly a bent rim? I used to have a shimmy in the rear from a bent rim.
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Old 08-26-2009
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Buy the track, best idea I've heard in this thread yet.
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