|
my thoughts on running 35's with 3.73's
I recently double lifted my ranger, it's a 99 4wd auto trans. I got the 35 KM2's on there, only been driving on it maybe a week or so. I am in the process of getting a gear swap here pretty quick, 4.56 or 4.88. I haven't been driving it enough to really say too much, it obviously lost some power, it struggles alittle more than it used to ESPECIALLY up hill, but overall, it isn't NEARLY as bad as i thought it would be. Maybe it has something to do with it being he 4.0 OHV. But, i need to regear it, it's just the right thing to do. I'm surprised it isn't worse than it seems though, so far. Either way, I am getting a gear change here pretty soon.
|
4:88 would probably be a better gear for the 35's , i have 4:10's with 33's and that is good, but i think maybe 4:88 would be better , so with 35's i would go 4:88
|
Yeah it's "driveable". lol. You'll want 4.88. Or go 4.56 for a little more econ on the freeway. I suggest 4.88....19mpg average I get driving from Seattle to Portland.....at 3000rpm and 75-80mph too.
|
Right on Shane!
Yeah dude, I have been in contact with Randy's up here in Everett a bit lately, it's getting about that time to make an appointment and get it done up! Yeah, It is " driveable " but it just doesn't feel right. I think it will be okay though until the time comes where i get new gears. I don't drive the truck that much, but i sure hope i don't screw something up trying to run the 35's with the 3.73's in the meantime. |
I might bring the truck in, have them gear the back, pull the front driveline until fall where in the winter i WILL be needing my 4WD. Throw the SL driveshaft in there, and have them do the front. Just a thought, I'm not sure what i'll do yet.
|
Why go all summer with no 4wd? Why not just go ahead and do it all at once and get it all done and over with. You'll be fine running the 3.73's for awhile. It's not like you're going to blow the 4.0 or anything. As long as you're not flawging it constantly you'll be fine.
|
No but that tranny ain't gonna like it....
Buddy of mine had 3.73s and 35's and a freshly rebuilt auto when the 35's went on. He got....oh...MAYBE 10k out of the trans before it went poop. I like the idea of just gearing the back for a while. Shaft removal isn't required, but it's smart to remove it. No chance of tcase poopage in case someone clicks into 4. It ain't your daily and you know how to drop the diff. Perfect for dropping the axle off for the gear change while the truck is sitting waiting in the driveway. Cheaper that way too! lol. |
I agree gearing just the rear would be good. But why go all the way until next fall to have the front done?
|
Yeah "driveable" is about it. lol
I had 3.73s and 33s on my 98 4.0L 4x4 5 spd, it sucked off road. Try driving in sand, mud or deep snow in 4x4 high. You pretty much can't do it. Any of the wheeling I did required 4 low. Towing sucked balls too. |
Originally Posted by rangerboy101
(Post 1598032)
I agree gearing just the rear would be good. But why go all the way until next fall to have the front done?
|
Originally Posted by brianjwilson
(Post 1598049)
Yeah "driveable" is about it. lol
I had 3.73s and 33s on my 98 4.0L 4x4 5 spd, it sucked off road. Try driving in sand, mud or deep snow in 4x4 high. You pretty much can't do it. Any of the wheeling I did required 4 low. Towing sucked balls too. |
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
(Post 1598028)
No but that tranny ain't gonna like it....
Buddy of mine had 3.73s and 35's and a freshly rebuilt auto when the 35's went on. He got....oh...MAYBE 10k out of the trans before it went poop. I like the idea of just gearing the back for a while. Shaft removal isn't required, but it's smart to remove it. No chance of tcase poopage in case someone clicks into 4. It ain't your daily and you know how to drop the diff. Perfect for dropping the axle off for the gear change while the truck is sitting waiting in the driveway. Cheaper that way too! lol. |
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
(Post 1598028)
No but that tranny ain't gonna like it....
Buddy of mine had 3.73s and 35's and a freshly rebuilt auto when the 35's went on. He got....oh...MAYBE 10k out of the trans before it went poop. I like the idea of just gearing the back for a while. Shaft removal isn't required, but it's smart to remove it. No chance of tcase poopage in case someone clicks into 4. It ain't your daily and you know how to drop the diff. Perfect for dropping the axle off for the gear change while the truck is sitting waiting in the driveway. Cheaper that way too! lol. |
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
(Post 1598028)
No but that tranny ain't gonna like it....
Buddy of mine had 3.73s and 35's and a freshly rebuilt auto when the 35's went on. He got....oh...MAYBE 10k out of the trans before it went poop. I like the idea of just gearing the back for a while. Shaft removal isn't required, but it's smart to remove it. No chance of tcase poopage in case someone clicks into 4. It ain't your daily and you know how to drop the diff. Perfect for dropping the axle off for the gear change while the truck is sitting waiting in the driveway. Cheaper that way too! lol. |
is there any downfall for running 4.88 on stock wheels
|
Originally Posted by LiftKitRanger
(Post 1598199)
You're probably talking about that fella with that big ol' jacked up Red Ford?
Originally Posted by LiftKitRanger
(Post 1598201)
I'd have to call them and find out the price difference if i bring in the whole truck, or if i drop off the diffs loose. I'm sure it's a bit cheaper bringing them in loose. Or do you know how much cheaper it is?
Originally Posted by LiftKitRanger
(Post 1598204)
I was thinking about just bringing the whole truck in in the next week or two, have them gear the rear end, and just drive it like that for a while, because i doubt i'll have to put her into 4wd until the weather gets rowdy. They said they have same day turn around rate, and about 800 dollars per axle
If you can get it down cheaper by dropping off a loose front axle or something, I'd go that route. It's worth asking them and giving them extra time to get a cut on the labor price. Pick me up a couple of their calenders and stickers!!!
Originally Posted by fx4wannabe
(Post 1598220)
is there any downfall for running 4.88 on stock wheels
Or are you talking tires? |
.
|
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
(Post 1598289)
Indeed, Sir. lol. Red '98 with the 01+ front end on 35" grapplers and 18" mojave teflons. Oh...and coil-over'd superlift.
That's actually on the pricey side. I got my ENTIRE truck done, including parts, for 700. Install and labor warranty was $150 per axle. I bought the Yukon gears elsewhere w/ install kits for 400shipped. Of course, it was the cheapest I found, it was locally, I dropped off loose axles and gave him a few days to get it all done for me. He came out to the shop when we ran into difficulties with the carrier and the ring gear and had to swap my LS carrier for a open carrier(thank you Torsen and Ford for a sh!tty center 'block' design). BUT, you are dealing with the most recognized axle parts sales company out there, Randy's Ring and Pinion. You may be paying for a name, but I don't doubt their quality of work one bit. Top notch. If you can get it down cheaper by dropping off a loose front axle or something, I'd go that route. It's worth asking them and giving them extra time to get a cut on the labor price. Pick me up a couple of their calenders and stickers!!! Nothing wrong with running 4.88's with stock wheels... Or are you talking tires? Oh, and, when i'm down there, I'll see what i can do about the calanders and stickers! |
Some carriers don't work with 4.88s. Actually the torsen is the only one I know that does not work. By the way, you have the option of using a notched cross pin or grinding the ring gear to fit the pin in, it is best to grind the ring gear. The reason for clearance issues is the fat ring gear for 4.88s.
You could also throw a locker in and you would be really happy with the truck. I was so stoked when I re-geared my sport trac and had it locked front and rear, it was awesome. |
^^^ What he said. lol.
I had the Fx4 axle with the Torsen limited slip and well, the thing that acts as the center pin in it would've required grinding the ring gear more than half way on like 7 teeth. NO BUENO. On your LS, it's of no concern. Grinding like two teeth down some or using a notched crosspin. I like the idea of running a upgraded aftermarket solid crosspin. Same stuff as the notched one, but not notched. I feel it's better for peace of mind. |
The lowest you can go with a Torsen is 4.56 gears. Also, I'd shave a little off the ring gear teeth before I'd notch the cross pin. The area of the ring gear you grind will not be contacted by the pinion if the gears are set-up correctly. Notched cross pins are a weak point and are known to break.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:53 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands