1999 Ford Ranger
#1
1999 Ford Ranger
Hello everyone.
I just bought a '99 Ford Ranger for parts, but have decided to fix it up, if I can.
How does one checked to see if I am getting gas from the tank to the engine?
I have reset the fuel cut off, but seems like it is sticking. Took a screwdriver to push the plunger back up after I reset it.
Not sure how long it has been sitting up; all I know it has damage to the front left, was told by the guy I bought it from that a lady pulled out in front of him.
Would appreciate any and help so I can see if the engine will run or not.
Thanks,
Coolmack
I just bought a '99 Ford Ranger for parts, but have decided to fix it up, if I can.
How does one checked to see if I am getting gas from the tank to the engine?
I have reset the fuel cut off, but seems like it is sticking. Took a screwdriver to push the plunger back up after I reset it.
Not sure how long it has been sitting up; all I know it has damage to the front left, was told by the guy I bought it from that a lady pulled out in front of him.
Would appreciate any and help so I can see if the engine will run or not.
Thanks,
Coolmack
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Inertia switch needs to be replaced if it was Tripped in an accident, the reset button is for temporary use until it is replaced.
When you turn on the key the computer will send power to fuel pump for 2 seconds, and you should hear it HUM in the gas tank, it is not quiet
And thats EACH TIME you turn key off and on, so repeat as much as needed to listen for it.
You can also put a test light or volt meter on inertia switch to see if its getting and passing 12volts
12v in and 12v out are the 2 or 3 wires, the OUT usually has 2 wires, but can be either way, computer monitors if 12v is there when it should be, thats what 3rd wire is for.
After engine RPMs are above 400 computer runs fuel pump full time
The 2 second thing is a safety feature in case fuel line should break, accident or ??, engine would stall(under 400rpms) and fuel pump power would be cut preventing gasoline from being pump out
On the engine there should be a Fuel Pressure test port, follow the fuel injectors fuel rail around engine, usually on passenger side(V6), it looks like a tire's air valve, because that is what it is, a Schrader Valve, may still have a cap on it
It works the same as air valve, take off the cap and press in center pin to release pressure, but BE CAREFUL, 1999 Ranger used 55-65psi fuel pressure, which can spray a long way
When you turn on the key the computer will send power to fuel pump for 2 seconds, and you should hear it HUM in the gas tank, it is not quiet
And thats EACH TIME you turn key off and on, so repeat as much as needed to listen for it.
You can also put a test light or volt meter on inertia switch to see if its getting and passing 12volts
12v in and 12v out are the 2 or 3 wires, the OUT usually has 2 wires, but can be either way, computer monitors if 12v is there when it should be, thats what 3rd wire is for.
After engine RPMs are above 400 computer runs fuel pump full time
The 2 second thing is a safety feature in case fuel line should break, accident or ??, engine would stall(under 400rpms) and fuel pump power would be cut preventing gasoline from being pump out
On the engine there should be a Fuel Pressure test port, follow the fuel injectors fuel rail around engine, usually on passenger side(V6), it looks like a tire's air valve, because that is what it is, a Schrader Valve, may still have a cap on it
It works the same as air valve, take off the cap and press in center pin to release pressure, but BE CAREFUL, 1999 Ranger used 55-65psi fuel pressure, which can spray a long way
Last edited by RonD; 01-12-2018 at 11:21 AM.
#3
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#5
I inherited a 1999 3.0 Ranger that was well cared for and the oil always changed. But I didn't know I was inheriting a truck that was about to start showing it's age before 120,000 miles with several issues all within a 6 month period. Oil pan gasket, timing chain cover gasket, water pump, 2 freeze plugs, coil pack, clogged heater core (due to antifreeze never changed) T-stat, valve cover gaskets, oxygen senor, and naturally the famous ford automatic transmission had to be replaced. Also replaced the timing chain and gear. I also had to replace front end parts including the camber bolts because I was told that was the reason the tires would wear out too soon. After all this work and money spent, I'm keeping this truck because it's basically like brand new again and drives like new and looks like new. I still have to replace the "fake" distributer assembly because it's prone to fail and when it happens the engine blows. After repairing everything else, it may be wise for me to go ahead and do that to be on the safe side. At least now I feel safe to make a long trip somewhere without breaking down. This is not the first ranger I've had and I swore I would never buy another one. (and I didn't since I inherited this truck).
#8
Ranger
I have learned by observation and freezing my but off that there are a few relays missing especially the PCM relay. That may be the reason the fuel pump is not working. The fuel pump relay is working, but not getting any voltage at on any of the leads to the fuel cut off switch. Tracing the wires back to the source, as a good troubleshooter I am, I found out that the PCM relay must be made before the fuel pump relay will be made; thus giving me the 12 volts I need ib the middle terminal of the fuel cut-off switch.
#13
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You can get your Owners Manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
2.5l is the last of the Lima engines, 2001 was last year, Ford used the 2.3l Lima version first time in a 1974 Pinto.
So 27 years of service, good little 4 cyl engine
Relays in the engine fuse box should all be standard automotive relays , so $5-$8 at local parts stores, $1 each at wrecking yards
Yes PCM relay needs to be working as that powers the fuel pump relay, NOT fuel pump, just the fuel pump relay
It also powers computer(PCM), injectors and spark
12A650 << this is the part number of the computer, the PCM(powertrain control module), not the relay's part number
2.5l is the last of the Lima engines, 2001 was last year, Ford used the 2.3l Lima version first time in a 1974 Pinto.
So 27 years of service, good little 4 cyl engine
Relays in the engine fuse box should all be standard automotive relays , so $5-$8 at local parts stores, $1 each at wrecking yards
Yes PCM relay needs to be working as that powers the fuel pump relay, NOT fuel pump, just the fuel pump relay
It also powers computer(PCM), injectors and spark
12A650 << this is the part number of the computer, the PCM(powertrain control module), not the relay's part number
#14
If it were me the FIRST thing I would do is get that title in hand. Until then not 1 penny would be invested into that truck. As it stands now you could invest thousands into it and whoever has that title would be the legal owner of the truck.
#15
I stand corrected!! I was reading the power distribution box, the one under the hood, wrong. Rushing myself too much guess because of the cold, just wanting to see if it will run before I sink too much money in it. Oh yes the title needs to be looked into too ASAP.
There are no relays missing, just the way I was hastily looking at it. I do know that I am not getting any voltage at all to the fuel cut-off switch located behind the left side kick panel in the cab.
I may wait for warmer weather to troubleshoot the electrical.
Thanks for everyone's help and concern!!
coolmack
There are no relays missing, just the way I was hastily looking at it. I do know that I am not getting any voltage at all to the fuel cut-off switch located behind the left side kick panel in the cab.
I may wait for warmer weather to troubleshoot the electrical.
Thanks for everyone's help and concern!!
coolmack
#16
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
The inertia switch(fuel cut off switch) will only show 12volts for 2 seconds after key is turned on, then maybe 5-8volts from computers monitor circuit.
So you need to hook up volt meter or test light to inertia switch and Ground it
Then turn key on and off as needed to see if you are getting that 2 seconds of 12 volts
If not then fuel pump relay or computer is not getting power
CEL(check engine light) should also come on with the key, if not then computer is not powering up
So you need to hook up volt meter or test light to inertia switch and Ground it
Then turn key on and off as needed to see if you are getting that 2 seconds of 12 volts
If not then fuel pump relay or computer is not getting power
CEL(check engine light) should also come on with the key, if not then computer is not powering up
#18
I did all the test you sent me to do. I am getting 12 volts through the fuel cutoff switch, but will still not start. I checked to see it there were any fuel pressure at the Shrader valve, and there is no pressure or fuel.
checked all fuses, the check engine light is comin on, just not getting fuel to the engine. I can't hear the fuel pump running, my next guess is to trace down the wire going to the fuel pump from the inhertia switch or see if the fuel relay is making.
Just about at the point where I may take up drinking again. Need help please!!
checked all fuses, the check engine light is comin on, just not getting fuel to the engine. I can't hear the fuel pump running, my next guess is to trace down the wire going to the fuel pump from the inhertia switch or see if the fuel relay is making.
Just about at the point where I may take up drinking again. Need help please!!
#19
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#20
#21
Ranger
Well since I'm not getting any fuel squires for 2-seconds after I remove the fuel filter when I turn the key on & off, guess I will trace back from the fuel pump to see where I am losing the 2-second 12-volt pulse. I do know I am getting it from the fuel cut-off switch, so it will have to be between there and the fuel pump inside the fuel tank.
If anyone has any ideas how to help me, feel free to jump right in.
Thanks,
coolmack
If anyone has any ideas how to help me, feel free to jump right in.
Thanks,
coolmack
#23
Well, I had a bad fuel pump in the fuel tank, removed it and replace it with a new fuel pump. Started right up, so that crisis is over. Now I am not getting any oil pressure, according to the instrument panel guage.
will now check the oil sending unit and maybe replace that too.
Just thought everyone would like to know!!
will now check the oil sending unit and maybe replace that too.
Just thought everyone would like to know!!
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