Synthetic oil?
#2
#4
#7
#9
I would higley recommend that you do NOT flush your motor especially since you have 118k miles. It will break down all the deposits that are in your motor and it can clog up the oil passage ways and the oil pump.
#10
It depends - IF engine didn't have proper maintenance, then you may be right. Personally I've never had any problems flushing higher mileage engines.
Last edited by BlutoBodine; 01-16-2010 at 01:51 PM.
#11
My rear main seal started to leak when I switched over at 130K but it doesn't leak bad. From what I hear, if I switch to Castrol GTX or something else with seal reconditioner, the leak should stop. When I replaced the head gaskets at 130K I did not see any sludge. I really don't care though, I haven't even seen it drip. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic for the record.
#13
I doubt you will have any problems.
I switched my '01 2.5 over to synthetic at about 75K miles. It did burn about 1/2 a quart in 4500 miles, but it had always burned a little before that. I think some of the synthetic just got past the valve stem seals because it never leaked externally.
I switched my '02 3.0 over to syntehtic at 86K miles. So far, no issues at all. No leaks and no oil burning. I'm using Kendall GT-1 full synthetic 5W20. Color isn't really an indicator of oil condition, but for the record with 2K miles on it, it's no darker than conventional oil would be. The truck has had Pennzoil and Motorcraft conventional before this with 3K-5K mile intervals.
I switched my '01 2.5 over to synthetic at about 75K miles. It did burn about 1/2 a quart in 4500 miles, but it had always burned a little before that. I think some of the synthetic just got past the valve stem seals because it never leaked externally.
I switched my '02 3.0 over to syntehtic at 86K miles. So far, no issues at all. No leaks and no oil burning. I'm using Kendall GT-1 full synthetic 5W20. Color isn't really an indicator of oil condition, but for the record with 2K miles on it, it's no darker than conventional oil would be. The truck has had Pennzoil and Motorcraft conventional before this with 3K-5K mile intervals.
#14
Synthetic is not thinner. Do you really think 5w-30 in synthetic oil is thinner than 5w-30 in dino oil? If you do, research oil viscosity.
Now saying that. Synthetic oil contains ingredients that help break down sludge and build up. Why you sometimes experience leaks in older engines when switching to synthetic is because the oil is now breaking down the gunk/build-up that has collected around seals and gaskets over time. This then allows the oil to seep past what it was previously blocked from doing.
Also, with a well tuned engine, changing oil filter regularly is more important than changing the oil. Ever read bobistheoilguy.com? You can have samples of your oil sent out that tell you just how much the inner metals of your engine are wearing out based on the levels in the oil. However, its much easier to just change the filter and oil at the same time, but the gist is keeping proper maintenance and filter changes you can run oil for a very long time without changing it (with proper top-offs of course.)
Last edited by D94R; 01-18-2010 at 09:18 PM.
#15
[Oil = Amsoil SSO 0w-30]
Last edited by BlutoBodine; 01-18-2010 at 09:44 AM.
#16
#17
- I'm currently trying a 1 year/15,000 mile oil drain. Not using any "magnet" and may not even change the (Amsoil Ea) oil filter between oil drains...because I want the UOA test to be as accurate as possible with the wear metals.
[Oil = Amsoil SSO 0w-30]
[Oil = Amsoil SSO 0w-30]
[EDIT]
Only made it to 5k with the 0w-30, and then I decided to be a deadbeat.
#21
I've been getting my Mobil 1 at Walmart for about $22-24 for a 5 quart jug.
I then go to a certified mechanic's garage, and he charges me about $25 to put it in and a new oil filter. He also tops off my other fluids, and gives the truck a good inspection and tells if anything else needs attention. His recommedations are usually spot on.
I then go to a certified mechanic's garage, and he charges me about $25 to put it in and a new oil filter. He also tops off my other fluids, and gives the truck a good inspection and tells if anything else needs attention. His recommedations are usually spot on.
#22
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I ran Mobil 1 in my 99 ranger. Its good. I think I'm going to stick with motorcraft syn tec blend. I mean Ford recommends that, so they outa know whats best. I am going to run full synthetic in my trans and tcase though....Go mobil 1 it wont hurt, just more expenive, and you can carry oil changes out to 5000 miles.
#23
I'm in the process of testing that belief - I'm currently trying a 1 year/15,000 mile oil drain. Not using any "magnet" and may not even change the (Amsoil Ea) oil filter between oil drains...because I want the UOA test to be as accurate as possible with the wear metals.
[Oil = Amsoil SSO 0w-30]
[Oil = Amsoil SSO 0w-30]
From Blackstone, UOA will not detect for sludging!!
The important thing is to use API certified oil, and only 1 Amsoil product is API certified:
Oil
My favorite is:
"I stay away from Amsoil for reasons that are far too detailed."
Some engines are more prone to sludging than other engines. VW and Audi have these engines, so they developed their own test and specs for oil
sludging. Here are the oils that PASS their tests:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf
http://dejong947.com/audi/tsb/audi.tb.17-05-01.pdf
Notice there are NO Scamsoil products listed, matter of fact, Scamsoil came out with a TSB about sludging in some engines, and recommended following the auto manufacturer's OCI, instead of the extended OCI BS they claim, to
justify the inflated price of their products!! They also recommend using their XL product, which is their ONLY API certified product!!
Sounds like they have gotten into deep poo-poo claiming their NON-API certified oils can run for 25K miles! Notice with these "sludge prone" vehicles, they are recommending to use their ONLY API certified oil for gasoline engines (XL), and they are saying to stay with the vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals!!
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/T...dge-issues.pdf
#24
From Blackstone, UOA will not detect for sludging!!
The important thing is to use API certified oil, and only 1 Amsoil product is API certified:
Oil
My favorite is:
"I stay away from Amsoil for reasons that are far too detailed."
.....<snip>.....
The important thing is to use API certified oil, and only 1 Amsoil product is API certified:
Oil
My favorite is:
"I stay away from Amsoil for reasons that are far too detailed."
.....<snip>.....
Appears that you're still not a fan of Amsoil, and I'm just a lot less of a fan of Amsoil...now. "for reasons that are far too detailed."
I will say that I have several customers that use the XL (7k-9k drain intervals) and have very good results with it.
#25
Sorry for the snip, but I felt like I've read it all before and responded to it all, several times in the past.
Appears that you're still not a fan of Amsoil, and I'm just a lot less of a fan of Amsoil...now. "for reasons that are far too detailed."
I will say that I have several customers that use the XL (7k-9k drain intervals) and have very good results with it.
Appears that you're still not a fan of Amsoil, and I'm just a lot less of a fan of Amsoil...now. "for reasons that are far too detailed."
I will say that I have several customers that use the XL (7k-9k drain intervals) and have very good results with it.